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Do not run the car without a therm.You didn't say if you had a cooling system on the car or not.If you don't get one.You need a seperator tank and at least a three core rad.The tank will remove air from the system.Air is the biggest culprit of high heat problems.It will hook up to the bottom rad hose.It must be {the tank}located higher then the rad.Strut tower by the coil works.
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I think you will be pleasantly surprised when you refire tomorrow (Thursday), provided you PRESSURE TEST THE CAP. you didn't mention that in your last post, yet I believe it's the number one contributor to your problem. You even said so in the first paragraph:
"FYI-When we ran the engine with the pump attached in place of the cap the engine was nice and cool," That's why I joined this thread in the first place. I thought I read that you said that, which pretty much tells me your cap sucks. The other factors are equally important, and none should be overlooked, but please take care of the cap. If you can't get yours tested, then just go buy a vented 17 pound Stant cap (with the little red lock on it). In fact, do that anyway. Test the cap later when you have time, but before you fire it up, install a new 17 pound cap with a pressure relief valve on it (the Stant one with the red thing). HEY, also, don't forget to re-torque your bolts SOON (intake/head/exhaust)! Go ahead and drive it for a day, but that's it. All of these hot/cold cycles have expanded and contracted the heads enough to put a permenant "crush" into the gaskets, which is why they should always be retorqued after the first few days. Now, GO BUY THAT CAP!!! Take care ~Chris Hey Matt! Very nice to hear from you! Thanks for the kind words! It really amazes me that even after being gone from here for over a year, people still remember me. That's kinda cool. Thanks! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
Funny you mentioned the cap with the release valve. I had one of those in my hands and the idiots at Advanced A$$holes told me it wouldn't do me any good. Those guys are brilliant. Anyway, I will pick up one of those caps and the shroud later today and install the robert Shaw 180 degree thermo. and the reverse rotation flexfan. It's hotter than hell up here in the NorthEast so this will be a good test of the "new" cooling system. Today is the big day for me. If this doesn't work...nevermind...it WILL work. I have to stay confident. Thanks for all the advice gentlemen, I really appreciate it. Wish me luck. I'll post the results later tonight. Thanks again.
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You won't need luck, but you might want to jot down everything so you don't forget. As far as the cap goes, the reason you want a release valve is because you will be generating more pressure (thus a 17 pound cap), and the valve makes it easier and safer to relieve the pressure when necessary. If they try and talk you into something else, ignore them.
have fun! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! [This message has been edited by PKRWUD (edited 08-09-2001).] |
Do you still want me to start the engine filled with water and with the cap off??
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On level ground, top off the radiator with water, and put the cap on tight. Then start it. The idea of leaving the cap off is only for when the entire system has been drained, and you need to wait for the t-stat to open to finish filling the system. You should be fine by toppingh off the radiator, ON LEVEL GROUND! Have fun!
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
Chris, I popped for the $8 cap and wow, my temps seem a lot better. I wasn't having cooling problems to the degree that Stang_ROTY is having, but I figured it's got 165K on it so what the heck. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif The temp holds much more steady now.
------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
Excellent Jim! It really seems to take people by surprise, that a good sealing cap is important, as is the pressure it will keep. That's just one of the "little" things I learned working for Bill Elliott. We sometimes used 30 pound caps! Anyway, I'm always happy to hear of something good getting better!
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
Wow, it was hot tonight! When I got out of work it was 101 degrees. Needless to say, I didn't get everything in tonight b/c once again I forgot NOTHING comes with bolts and nuts these days so I need to find something to clamp the shroud to the rad. support on the bottom. Looks like everything will fit ok. We (in the NE) should be getting some relief tonight so I'll be out 1st thing in the morning tomorrow to start her. Thanks
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Fukker. I've been checking back here all day! that's cool, though. let me know how things go.
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
Chris, They didn't have the vented 17 lb. cap so I got the 16 lb. cap. Should I be o.k.? The shroud and fan and thermo. are in. I changed the oil and refilled the coolant system with water. This IS the moment of thruth! 10 mos. and over 17K later it's time to find out if the engine needs to be teared apart again. And it's still brand new! Thanks Chris for all the advice. I really hope this works. I'm sure you and everyone else can relate. Well, here we go. I'll be back on later with the good results.
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Yes, a 16 pound cap will be fine. I look forward to the results!
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
YES! SUCCESS! IT's WORKING! That fan and shroud made a huge difference. I can actually feel the difference myself standing above the motor. I think that did it Chris. You are da f#&%ing man! I filled her up with water and put the cap on tight. Once I started the car and ran her the temp gauge got to about 150, then 180 and I noticed the upper rad. hose was hot which told me the thermo. opened. Then it creeped up to about 190 and the lower hose was hot and the temp. lowered back to 180 on the dot. I started to rev her to about 3500 and it creeped up again but never got over 195. Beautiful. She even sounds better now that I changed the oil (it was really shi##y). Thanks to everyone! Chris, you are for real. I think I'll actually make to Ford Day at Lebanon Valley tomarrow. So what do I do now? Do I take the water out and fill it wth antifreeze, or leave the water in it? Thanks again Chris. You were right. Now hopefully when I drive it the temp won't go up.
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Great! I'm very happy that you got it under control!
What do you do next? Re-torque the intake/head/exhaust bolts. After that: Wash and wax it. Contrary to popular belief, coolant is not your engines friend. After about 1000 miles, or two months, which ever comes first, change the oil and filter again, and flush the cooling system and refill with 40% coolant/anti-freeze - 60% water, for the winter. Next spring, flush it again and refill with straight water for the summer. If you run into any trouble, or have other questions, feel free to email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net Now just enjoy!!! Take care ~Chris P.S. If you end up with any old or used coolant, save it. It's one of the best rubber conditioners there is! Applied regularly to tires, it leaves that clean, new tire look, which I prefer Armor-all. Tires are supposed to look like tires, not glazed donuts. |
As an important footnote, I want to really stress to you that, while the fan and shroud made a large difference, so did the cap. You may not realize it, but the cap was probably the single most effective part in the combination of changes you made. They were all necessary, but the cap was the biggie.
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
Thanks again Chris. I took her for a 50 mile ride today and i still have some prob's to iron out. My only concern is that the engine puffs a large amount of smoke on startup after the car has cooled off. My engine builder ays it's the moly rings that need to be seayed. i guess I'll find out soon enough. thanks again.
PS-You wouldn't happen to be the Chris that I was supposed to talk to at JMS, would you? |
No, I'm Chris from Peckerwoods Pit Stop in Ventura, California. I'm glad your journey was successful. The puff of smoke could be from the rings, but it should stop soon. After about 1000 miles or so, you should notice the engine running a little cooler. Rebuilt engines always run hotter until they are broken in. Once that happens, you may want to consider installing the fan clutch you have. If it runs too hat after making the swap, swap it back. Just make sure the fan is sitting half in and half out of the shroud.
What other problems are you having? Start a new thread and we'll see what we can do! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
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