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Old 04-07-2002, 08:38 AM   #1
1984 GT
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Question How to improve ET

I'm new and wondering how to improve my ET. My first trip to the track best result was 14.74@95.25. My next trip out best result was 14.36@98.36.

I'm running on street radials not slicks and have stock suspension on my 1984 Hatchback.
Mods include: Windsor Jr heads, Crane cam and roller rockers, Weind Action Plus intake, Holley 650 DP, underdrive pulleys, Center force Dual friciton clutch, aluminum drive shaft, Mac shorty headers and H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers and K&N filter. Bottom end is stock 302.

I'm thinking I should be in the 13's. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-07-2002, 09:52 AM   #2
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Look like you have a good combo there. could try diff shift points and also how you leave the line. also check timing and maybe tune the carb. get some drag radial and you will be well into the 13's.
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Old 04-07-2002, 12:49 PM   #3
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what was you 60ft???
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Old 04-07-2002, 12:54 PM   #4
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2.28 for 60' time. I forgot to mention that I'm running the stock 5 speed and 3.08 rears.
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Old 04-07-2002, 03:35 PM   #5
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Get that 60' to like a 1.8ish...You will need some drag radials at least (if you don't like slicks...I don't ) How are you launching?
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What I have:
1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX:
[BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust]
[MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties]
[3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower]
[E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor]
[Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.]
[Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS]
[Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion]

Thinking about:
Aftermarket Heads!
Vortech A-Trim
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Old 04-07-2002, 03:53 PM   #6
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My better times seem to be when I leave at about 2000 rpm, but I still light them up and if I'm not careful have to ease off a little in second to get some traction.

Will subframe connectors help any with traction?

Last edited by 1984 GT; 04-07-2002 at 03:58 PM..
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Old 04-08-2002, 10:42 AM   #7
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Yeah, they will...but drag radials will help more. I don't like the whole idea behind slicks, so I went with some drag radials instead... When I go to the track, I will put them on before I go down. I am on my first pair, but they are supposed to last for about 10,000-15,000 miles.

Thanks,
DoranW
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What I have:
1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX:
[BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust]
[MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties]
[3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower]
[E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor]
[Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.]
[Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS]
[Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion]

Thinking about:
Aftermarket Heads!
Vortech A-Trim
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Old 04-08-2002, 12:08 PM   #8
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What brand of radials did you purchase and what improvements did you get on your times?

Someone advised me to try lauching at about 1200 rpm any thoughts?
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Old 04-08-2002, 12:19 PM   #9
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60' times are huge. You have to experiment with your launch to find out what works best for you. Bottom line is you have to beat the car like you hate it to get the best times you can. I didn't want to use slicks either until I went to the track last saturday and could only manage 2.1 to 2.3 60' times with Drag Radials. The problem is the more power you have the harder it is to launch. It's a fine line between wanting the best times and being afraid of breaking something, especially if you are driving to and from the track. I was launching at about 4000 and shifting at 5200 with the stock long block last fall, now with heads, cam and intake I have to relearn the car and how to launch it.

Another important factor is learning your shift points. The best way to do that is to have your car dynoed to see where it makes peak power and shift just past that point at the track. Shift lights are big, you have way too much going on to be watching the tach to see when to shift, and it isn't too safe either. How you shift is also important. Being able to adjust your clutch can be a huge help in getting speedier shifts and an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster is very helpful. Powershifting if properly done can net you several tenths in the 1320, as well.

I could probably go on for alot longer but these are the basic things i've learned in trying to net the best times i can. Good luck.
Chris
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Old 04-08-2002, 12:48 PM   #10
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with my car I have to leave the line at 2000rpms and gradually give it gas and slip the clutch a little and I still manage 2.0 60fts.
and that was last year before the subframes and removal of my front sway bar.

60ft times take practice.

Later,
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Old 04-08-2002, 12:58 PM   #11
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Why do people remove their front sway bar?

Thanks,
DoranW
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What I have:
1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX:
[BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust]
[MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties]
[3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower]
[E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor]
[Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.]
[Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS]
[Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion]

Thinking about:
Aftermarket Heads!
Vortech A-Trim
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Old 04-08-2002, 01:20 PM   #12
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Removal of the front sway bar loosens up the front suspension and allows more weight to transfer to the back wheels resulting in better traction.

Later,
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00' Lightning-Stock
88'CRX-13 second ego killer
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Old 04-08-2002, 01:38 PM   #13
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OK, a lot of great ideas and things to work on for this Wed. Test & Tune.

If I get it to really lock up what's the prognosis for my 7.5 rear?
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