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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2
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![]() How do i install the fuel pressure regulator??any tips on how to do it or any special tools?
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#2 |
Mizzou Tigers
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: weston, MO United States
Posts: 1,455
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![]() Just remove everything that is in the way
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2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244 Last edited by Hethj7; 06-11-2003 at 11:25 PM.. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Minturn, CO 81645
Posts: 109
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![]() I put an Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator in 5.0 Mustangs a couple of times. These are the things I suggest to make it easy and so you won't lose the allen wrinch bolts.
I would order gaskets that go on throttle body and the other side of the EGR spacer. Last time I checked I spent 15 dollars at Napa for them. I'm assuming that you already have the new fuel pressure regulator, gasket and O rings. This is how I would start. 1. Take the negative battery cable off the battery and remove the gas cap to releave pressure. 2. Take off the plumbing that goes in between the MASS AIR FLOW and throttle body. 3. Remove the four nuts to the throttle body and disconnect linkage. 4. Remove EGR 5. To remove EGR spacer I double the nut the to the studs that are going into the spacer. I used a wrench and untighten the nut that is closest to the egr spacer. This allows me to back the studs out. I had trouble with one threaded stud so I rotated the whole spacer. 6. When removing the EGR spacer this gives plenty of room for access to the regulator. I was able to save time by taking this all apart. 7. There are three allen wench bolts on the fuel pressure regulator. Undo all of them. I used an allen wrench socket that goes into my 3/8 rachet. It worked better with a socket allen wrench . A regular allen wrench will work also. 8. Install is reversed. Tighten the three allen wrench stud evenly and use the new gaskets that goes on both sides of the EGR spacer. I used never seize on the studs when putting them back into the intake manifold. |
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#4 |
Mizzou Tigers
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: weston, MO United States
Posts: 1,455
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![]() You don't actually have to back those studs out that go into the intake. In step 5 of the above post, don't double the nut. Just remove the nuts that are already there and slide the spacer off of the studs, leaving the studs in place. Also, I have had my TB and EGR spacer off many times and usually can get away with not replacing the gaskets. Just be careful when removing them and you should be okay. Good luck!
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2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244 |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Minturn, CO 81645
Posts: 109
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![]() It depends on step 5. The studs on the mustangs that I have worked on were very carotid. I do recommend puting new gaskets if you don't want to redo the project in a six months. Any leak inbetween the MAF and the oxygen sensor is unmeasured air and can cause the car to go lean. If the gaskets are pretty old they get brittle. It is easy to preplan than to have to wait for parts.
Mountain Main |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 161
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![]() Im putting in my regulator right now, and my EGR canister is hitting the new regulator... So i made a spacer to go between the intake hole in and the EGR plate. Kinda pissen me off, I have a trickflow intake, but not spacer on it from the lower to upper manifold.
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