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Old 06-06-2003, 12:16 PM   #14
Fox Body
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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Quote:
Originally posted by twilightcall
Thanks. I actually just got the car this week. My pedal does the same thing that yours did. It goes about halfway down before you get a good amount of resistance and it starts braking. How do you check the proportioning valve and the booster? Is the booster hard to change?
First try to adjust your rear brakes then do what PKRWUD suggested (it's easy and if it works, saves you the trouble of messing with the booster). The thing about the booster is I think the only 2 places you can get another one from is Ford Dealer or a junk (salvage) yard. I had another V6 mustang that I was using for parts at the time and just took it off that one. It's really not too difficult to change. First time I ever did it took me under 2 hrs (b/c I went slow and took my time).
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback
'79 Video @ Idle
Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials;
14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter.


'92 GT (5-speed)
Small In Car Video
Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals...

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