I can't figure this out
 

Ok. I've got this anoying problem which has kept me from driving my stang for a week. Maybe you can help. When I start my engine at any given time all is ok until I start to drive. The car starts of ok and then about a minute later I loose quarter throttle completely. If I try apply gas to quarter throttle at this point, the car just bucks and backfires. If I pull over and let it idle for a minute, the throttle surges a little then I can drive the car(wont run 100%) till I turn it off again. I've changed the fuel filter, plugs, cap and rotor, fuel relay, o2 sensors. I've Disconnected the TPS, EGR, checked all vacuum lines, and reset the computer. Any ideas? Thanks.
I'm about to tear down the entire car

Sorry here are my spec:

ust me
91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint. Going for an electric fan setup with a blower.

Nevermind. I finally figured it out.
Thanks anyway guys.

What was it?

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'69 Coupe with 351W
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Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 3:1 gears, 290hp-stock heads
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The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

*Bet he left a sensor disconnected, heeheehee*

YEah don't leave us hanging! What was the problem?

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90 LX 5.0 ,bored 302, MSD 6AL, Twisted Wedge TrickFlo HDs, World class T5, BBK fender cold air induct., 70mm TB,Edelbrock performer Intake, aluminum Drve shaft, 3.55 Gears, Long Tube Headers to Flowmasters.

The hunger for knowledge plagues me as well http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif

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Gunning for 12's!

My Stang Page
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

I havn't fixed it. It seemed that I fixed it by reseting my computer, but then it came back the next time I drove the car. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggg ggggggggggggggggggg. I hate this!
Any help would be appreciate it. I made another post today without checking if this one was still around. Just disregard the other one. Thanks. Oh and if you guys got any ideas please let me know.

Any codes?

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

I'd say replace the TPS (make sure you reset the computer again and tweak it to 0.995V), and borrow a friend's good-and-working MAF meter. I would think it'd have to be one of the two items.

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Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

No offense, Capri, but advising a TPS adjustment that high is not healthy. There is no noticeable difference between .95 and .995 to the driver, but it brings it dangerously close to the ECM reading it as 1 volt, at which point the ECM determines you are no longer at idle. It's been a popular myth that adjusting the TPS that high increases performance, but in reality, it's just in peoples heads. The TPS is a very good suggestion, though! I was leaning that way myself, but wanted to see if there were any fresh codes after resetting the ECM before recommending any money be spent.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Thanks for the responses. I doubt that my problem lies between my TPS or MAF meter as the car runs perfect after the problem goes away. Remember this problem only happens when I start the car and run it for a few minutes. After which the problem occurs for about twenty seconds and then it doesn't come back till I start the car again. One thing that is consistent as well, is the idle drops dramatically and then comes back up to normal when the problem goes away. I don't attempt to rev the engine or it will backfire. I think it a freakin conspiracy!
I treat her good. Why does she do this to me.
wwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

just me,

try the MAP sensor, my 88 had somewhat the same problem and the vacuum line was off the MAP sensor, but you said you checked all the lines, replace the MAP sensor for kicks!!! I think that will cure your problem.

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'88 coupe
351W (.060" over)
trickflow "R" series heads, 1.6 ratio crane gold series rockers.
Miloden 7qt oilpan
trickflow street series intake, with 70mm throttle body, and 77 Pro-M mass air meter.

Thanks sweet88coupe, I'll give it a try. Will post results.

Do you have long tubes on your car? If so it may be a problem with your O2's not reading correctly until the car gets warmed up. Just a thought because my car started this right after the long tube install.

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Gunning for 12's!
http://www.indianastangers.com/2Fast..._brd_logo2.gif
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241