i need your best guess.....
 

i am wondering what kind of power i am getting before i take it to the dyno next week. i need your input.
im looking for both FWHP and RWHP.

90 GT, 5 spd.

equal length headers/ OR H-pipe/ 2 ch. flows./ 2.5in pipe.

K&N panel/ 73mm MAF/ 24# injectors/ 65mmTB/ FPR/ cobra intake (port matched to heads)/ mildy ported E7's/ 1.7RR/

electric fan/ 180 stat/

i also have 3.73's if you guys could guess my times...
i bought the car last summer and didnt have time to take it to the track.

thanks in advance,
adam

Her's my best guess. 250 f/wheel hp. 190 rear wheel. 1/4 mile time 13.80 at 100mph. just my 2cents. RAY

I would guess a bit more with the HP maybe like 265/200...but I would guess about 14.3 on the 1/4 mile.

completely stock stangs normally put out between 190-200hp. So depending on the extent of the porting on your heads, I would think you'd turn out about 215-225RWHP.
You'd probably run high 13s at around 100mph if you can drive well and get a good 60ft.

let us know how the dyno session turns out

i will let you guys know what it turns out to be.

i am just having a hard time believing that even with over $1000 of bolt ons it wouldnt even do anything.....

It really depends on how much the heads have been ported - however, you are still using the smallish stock valves.

I'm going to guess 208 RWHP / 245 FWHP and a 14.2 @ 99 on street tires.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
E

255 FWHP 210 RWHP 14.3 @97mph

To be exact;)

220-230 r.w.h.p and times with good traction around 13.8-14.0 @ 100m.p.h

ok, so now that you guys have given me some guesses. what could i do to really boost power without heads nitrous or blower. i dont have the money for any of those and i find nitrous kinda cheating...

thanks for the help,
adam

after reading this and visiting your cars specs on here, i dont see how you can say that i have less power (the same E/T) than you do when i have far more done....
please explain,

adam

e.t is based on being able to get the power down. when i ran radials i couldn't run better than mid 14's, these time i ran i had on my mccreary tires. friday night at the local 1/8 mile my buddy was there and on stock radials he couldn't run better than 9.2 but after he put his slick on his times dropped ALOT!



i was just "guessing" like you asked. let us know what it dyno's at and what time you get. when do you plan on running it at the track??

dyno is next thursday. ill run at the track in the spring (michigan).


what could i do next to boost power? without nitrous, supercharger, or turbo. i dont have the money....

my goal is 300 hp with stock heads.. what could i do?



thanks a lot guys.
adam

You won't be able to get 300 hp to the wheels with the stock heads, unless god himself ported them. You will however be able to get close to 300 at the motor.

Your gonna need an extensive head port job, with larger valves and you'll probably want to shave the heads some too to bring up the compression a little.

You already have a great intake for the power level your looking for. But you'll need a cam to get there. Basically anything BUT the motorsport cams, I'd go with the trick flow stage 1 cam. But with that you'll probably need to ditch the 1.7's for 1.6's.

You didn't mention underdrive pulleys. If you have a good alternator, they are a great way to add cheap hp.

hope this helps

thanks fiveohpatrol,

i dont have underdrives although i do already have a 3G alt. im thinking of just going with the crank pulley.

what other things can i do????

just out of curiosity, what kind of power are you making fiveohpatrol???

thanks,
adam

I believe I will have close to 300 crank HP when I finish putting my car back together. After I get it all tuned and get a good ignition system. I will go to the dyno and hope to pull 260 RWHP

You could put in a windage tray and a crank scraper. That's worth a few extra ponies, especially at higher RPM's, and is relatively cheap.

Rev

what else are you doing to it right now "dark 5.0" ?

we have a similar setup, i just want to be at 300HP....

please let me know what you are doing to get you there???

good idea REV, whats the best one???
thanks,
adam

Other than whats in my sig. I am getting a fuel pressure regulator and bump my fuel pressure to 46psi. Then I am going to get a custom burned chip so I can get the most out of my set-up.

I have also considered a windage tray, but I dont think I will be pulling my oil pan off till I have to;)

I am going for 13's and I may be there already I dont know we will just have to see.

My car will soon have a serious Nitrous set-up, and I will try to hit low 12's.

The only reason that I dont have Nitrous already is cause you have to have a roll cage if you run a 13.9 or faster.

I think with a good tune underdrive pullies and an electric fan you should have around 300 ponies.

well guys, the plan has changed. i just came accross a set of GT-40 heads that i am going to get. what kind of power will i see with these?

thanks,
adam

aluminum or Iron GT40's?

either way, you should port them too. Those things can flow really well when opened up. Depending on your cam selection and traction, you could easily run mid-low 12's with them.

Theres alot of people that run even quite a bit faster than that with them, even without porting. But these cars are lightened quite a bit and are getting killer traction on slicks.

Untouched GT-40 heads will give you quite a bit more H.P. than ported E7's.

1. They have larger valves
2. I seen a guy with a set of GT-40's with a stage 3 port and polish job, He knocked off a second in the 1/4 mile over his ported E7's.

So in my opinion these heads are good right out the box and they can be worked over to produce awesome amounts of power.

320+crank H.P. should be no problem with the right set-up. And in the future if you want more power (and you will) get a nice port and polish job.

Good luck,

the heads im getting are irons.

i would like to port them but i have never done it before and i dont really want to pay somebody for it again. so im thinking im just going to leave them alone. or maybe just gasket match the intake port.

when looking at these heads, is there a way to tell if something is wrong? he said thay have already had a valve job, seals, hydrolic roller springs with hardened retainers and keepers. and have been hot taked. is there anything i should look out for?

ive never bought used heads before.

what gaskets should i get for the heads and the rest....?

thanks,
adam

255 tops, save the dyno money and get a custom cam.

255 tops????? Your talking RWHP right..

I agree get rid of the 1.7 RR and get a custom cam and you will pick up some serious HP.

yep.

thanks a lot!

i think for now im going to stay with the stock cam and see what that gives me. this car is going to be almost driven daily in the summer so i really dont want to get into drivability issues.

for now whatever this setup gives me i will be happy.... i hope!

thanks,
adam

Other than the custom cam i suggested, the stock cam is a very underated and if retarded a bit works great, Avery overlooked option, i am glad you are going to use that instead of just slapping in an alphabet cam. Go stock or Custom!

yea, im planning on staying with the stock cam. the only way to retard it is to get a cam gear with multiple holes right?

for now (no more money) i am probably going to leave the cam alone but i would like to know for the future...

thanks a ton for all your help guys!
by the way, i did pick up the GT-40 heads today. beleive it or not they are GT-40's and do not have ANY thermactor air holes....!!!!

has anybody ever heard of this???

all the markings on them are the GT-40 markings...

thanks,
adam

so i got the GT-40 heads yesterday. they really dont have the thermactor ports in them. they do have GT stamped on them as well as a "71" up by the valve cover openings. what year heads are these???

they do have 1.84/1.54 valves, and the 3 bars on the end of the heads.

could somebody help me identify the year of these heads? or are they some sort of aftermarket motorsport head???

thanks in advance,
adam