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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Stuart, FL, US
Posts: 147
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![]() Since I have never seen an article on subframe connectors in magazines (unless I missed them), I am going to ask you guys some broken down, black&white questions. When I buy a pair, do I want full-length connectors or are standard length connectors good enough? Also, do I want a cross brace? I have read captions on these items and they say "reduces power-robbing chassis flex." Now, have any of you ran faster at the track with these? I mean is this statement true, honestly? Keep in mind that my car is street driven and I don't care much for making hair pin turns, I just want something that will improve ride quality as you all have described, but I want to make an educated purchase. Thanx.
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: college station, tx
Posts: 143
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![]() Full length is the way to go. A cross brace is good too. I've heard of some people getting better 60ft times after them, but I didnt. It's a great mod tho...you'll like it.
------------------ Clint L. White 95 Cobra #3637 58cc GT40X heads with mild porting, Crane 2031 cam, FRPP 65 TB, 1.7s, Cobra intake, homeade cold air, 155lph, pullies, Tokico Illuminas, C springs, GW LCAs, Kenny Brown super subs, Steeda CC plates, aluminum driveshaft, Steeda quadrant, B&M ripper, Kirban FPR, MSD6A, Taylor wires, Mac shorties, off road hpipe, 2 1/2 ultra flows w/ dumps, R hood, Euro clear corners, stock 3.08s 13.61 @ 105.7 w/ 2.22 <-- 284 rwhp / 323 rwtq |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Stuart, FL, US
Posts: 147
|
![]() What about this power robbing reason?> Is this true? Has anyone had experience with actually running better time by installing these?
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
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#4 |
Being stroked is great
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 772
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![]() I wouldn't imagine the improvement would be noticeable in times unless you're running a LOT of power...but the increase in the strength of the chassis is worth it in itself. Cornering is more fun and going up and down curbs makes for a lot less squeaking with the subframes installed. Translation: do it.
------------------ '91 LX Hatch, 17 ROH ZR6's, lowered, 3.73's, offroad H pipe, SN Cobra cat-back, ASP pullies, 14° timing, C&L 76mm MAF, 170A 3G, B&M Ripper on a T5 Best ET pass: 14.593 @ 94.62 Best MPH pass: 14.728 @ 95.72 (75°, 75% hum., 2200') 1991 LX Hatch 5.0L |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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