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Old 02-11-2004, 03:18 AM   #1
MidNiteBlu 5.0
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Default Installing a cam

I just bought GT40 heads and 1.6 roller rockers and am pending on a cobra intake so i figure it would probably be good to do a cam too. I am leaning towards the TFS Stage 1 or the ford e303, probably more towards the tfs. Here are the specs for the TFS cam

Duration @ .050 in. - 221 intake/225 exhaust
(Degrees) Cam Lift - 312 in./.319 in.
(Intake/Exhaust) Valve Lift with
1.6 Rockers - .499 in./.510 in.
(Intake/Exhaust) Lobe
Separation
(Degrees) - 112
TFS-51402000 Good idle, strong midrange power. Aftermarket intake, heads, and headers recommended. Requires modified mass airflow. Compression ratio: 9:1 to 10.5:1.

221 intake/225 exhaust .312 in./.319 in. .499 in./.510 in. 112 Each


My dad and i have a pretty good knowledge and have alot of tools but neither of us have done a cam before. What should i look out for and what are some helpful hints? Also my engine has 106 miles on it will i need to replace the bearings, lifters or pushords?
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Old 02-11-2004, 09:23 AM   #2
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I would definitely go with the trick flow cam. It was a nightmare getting my car to idle right with e-303 cam. I ended up having to drill a 3/16 hole in my throttle body flapper.

Cam is easy money. Go ahead and replace your timing chain. And make damn sure to get your timing marks lined up right on the cam and crank gear.

Use plenty of assembly lube when installing the new cam so you dont scar up your bearings.

Use some lock tight on the 2 bolts that hold the plate to the block at the end of the cam.

Its too easy,
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Old 02-11-2004, 02:16 PM   #3
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I just did a cam change last weekend to a TF stage 1 and I love it.

I installed mine with the engine in the car. No probs with enough room once the radiater is out. Just take care when removing the old one and putting the new one in. Just take your time and double check your work. Use lock tight on some of those wimpy ford bolts.

You got a chiltons or haynes manual right?
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'77 Aspen R/T: 318 w/273 heads, 4spd, Hurst Shifter, 600 holley, edelbrock intake, 8 3/4 axle, 3.23 sure-grip, dual 3" exhaust, MP cam 276 / 276 duration 490 / 490 mech solid lifter, Super Stock Springs
(15.65@88 3900lbs)

'91 Mustang LX: .030 Bored, Typhoon Intake, 4.10's, Lentech VB, BBK 70mm TB, FMS A/C elim bracket, 19lbs inject, off road H-pipe, 75mm pro-m MAF, FRP unequal shorty, stormin normin hood.

3420 Lbs w/ 220 (me) and 13 gal gas.

'02 SS Camaro
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Old 02-11-2004, 08:14 PM   #4
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I have both a chilton and haynes manual so with 106k miles on it you still think the bearings should be good as long as i dont damage them?

thanks for the help guys
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Old 02-13-2004, 02:52 AM   #5
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bearings?
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89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494
1987 Toyota Pickup
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Old 02-13-2004, 12:30 PM   #6
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I wouldnt worry about those unless your taking the whole motor out and tearing it down. I noticed when I did my cam change, that on ford small blocks you cant get a visual on any of the cam bearings except the first. I didnt like that. Mopar small blocks you can get a good visual on the bottom half of all the cam bearings.
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'77 Aspen R/T: 318 w/273 heads, 4spd, Hurst Shifter, 600 holley, edelbrock intake, 8 3/4 axle, 3.23 sure-grip, dual 3" exhaust, MP cam 276 / 276 duration 490 / 490 mech solid lifter, Super Stock Springs
(15.65@88 3900lbs)

'91 Mustang LX: .030 Bored, Typhoon Intake, 4.10's, Lentech VB, BBK 70mm TB, FMS A/C elim bracket, 19lbs inject, off road H-pipe, 75mm pro-m MAF, FRP unequal shorty, stormin normin hood.

3420 Lbs w/ 220 (me) and 13 gal gas.

'02 SS Camaro
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