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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington State
Posts: 8
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![]() While driving down the free it will surge and chug. Also from a dead stop when I stomp on the gas it will go, but VERY slugish. The dang thing won't even do a burn-out anymore. for codes this is what we get. 172 and 176 which are for low voltage O2 sensors and Lean Bank 1 and Bank 2. So far this is what we have replaced:
Spark Plugs MSD Wires MSD Cap Rotor PCV valve Fuel Filter Fuel Regulator Air Filter Cleaned MAF with electrical cleaner changed oil and filter Throttle Position Sensor A couple bottles of injector cleaner Both O2 sensors On top of the fuel regulator there is a hose and we took it off and blocked it. It ran fine after that but when we talked to the Ford Dealer service guys they said not to because the fuel pressure will get up to something like 172psi and you will find fuel in the oil. We ran it like that for about 2 days. No Fuel in oil, but right when I put the hose back on the fuel regulator it ran like crap again. PLEASE HELP!! I have no Idea what it could be now. We have checked most all the sensors with a DMM and all tested ok. This is SOOOOO Frustrating!!! Could it have something to do with the EGR valve maybe? Thanks for all your guys help!!!
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Stuart |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() Might be your fuel pump if it's a fuel problem or the coil if it's an electrical problem. I'd say the fuel pressure reg. might be bad, but you have it listed as already being replaced.
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My Ford Club http://www.midwestfords.org/ Best time N/A 12.9 @ 107 1.711 60' 125 shot - 12.04 @ 113 1.59 60' |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington State
Posts: 8
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![]() We actually changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator after we tried removing the hose. We thought it was bad too so we replaced it. The only thing that has gotten better after replacing all this stuff if the idle. The car only has 69K miles on it too. Also when getting on it, at about 4000 Rpm it starts stutering really bad and might make it to about 5000Rpm but won't redline.
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Stuart |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() I would swap TFI's and the entire distributor. Also the coil.
I know your tfi is not co-located with your distributor but it's worth a shot. I had a similar problem once that I troubleshot forever. It was the PIP sensor inside of the distributor. I feel your pain. Good luck.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Bartlesville OK
Posts: 68
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![]() I fought a serging /electrical problem for a while and spent a lot more money than needed. So before you spend any more raise the hood and listen you might have a simple vacume leak. I had low volts, o2 codes, serging, and the car acted like it wanted to stall sometimes depending on how it felt at the time. And my hose that was at fault went to the EGR system, after $2 for a couple feet of hose she ran like a champ. Its so small but its worth a look.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 2,875
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![]() Agreed, get a vacuum gauge, (and if required see if you can enlist the help of PKRWUD) and go to work. PKRWUD wrote a very long and detailed reply to one of my posts awhile back. It has all kinds of great information in it. You should do some more research on that first. You buy the vacuum gauge and I'll get the response that PKRWUD posted for me.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: broken arrow
Posts: 212
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![]() the first thing i would do is pull the plugs out to find out if it's running rich/lean or burning correctly if your plugs are heavily sooty black you are running way rich but if they are white you are running lean either condition will make the car run like crap as far as removing the hose from the pressure regulator it will make your fuel pressure flatten out it won't go up or down with engine vacuum it will only stay at one level which can cause the car to run rich/lean but most of the time it runs fine the fuel pressure w/o the hose attached with a factory regulator should be around 39psi whoever told you it would climb to 170+ psi was smoking crack and there is no reason removing the hose would allow fuel to enter the oil sounds like the old scare you into using us to fix your car ploy. just the fact that it runs like crap with the hose attached to the regulator indicates a fuel problem to me.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portage
Posts: 239
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![]() Just wondering if youve fixed the problem yet or not? If not and your thinking of replacing your TFI module let me know. I have one that has 71,000 on it and it worked fine when i replaced it with a Performance distributors dyna mod. I can mail it to you if you need, I also have a stock FPR if you need that. PM if your interested. Good luck
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'95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes |
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#9 |
cranky old man
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Longview Texas
Posts: 683
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![]() I agree with bigblock ... if its fixed by the hose to the fuel pressure reg then it would be logical that its a fuel problem. Try checking the fuel flow volume ... sometimes you can have a restriction and you'll get normal pressure but not enough volume to keep up with engine needs?
Thats my 2 cents worth |
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#10 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() OK TRUST ME ON THIS, THIS HAS BEEN THE PROBLEM FOR OVER30 PEOPLE NOW. CHANGE YOUR MASS AIR. I KNOW IT SHOULDNT MAKE SENSE FOR THE MASS AIR TO MAKE YOUR CAR RUN LIKE THAT BUT TRUST ME. I BOUGHT A 95GT WITH 66K MILES AND THATS EXACTLY WHAT WAS WRONG WITH IT, IT WOULD REV TO ABOUT 4000RPMS AND THAT WAS IT, SOMETIMES IT EVEN THOUGHT OF GOING TO 4500RPMS. I HAVE HAD 5 FRIENDS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM, AND HAVE HAD THE PROB MY SELF WITH MY 89,90,95 MUSTANGS. TRUST ME SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY A NEW MASS AIR SENSOR, "THATS THE PROBLEM"
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#11 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() AS FOR THE O2'S AND THE FUEL PRESSURE, WHEN THE MASS AIR GOES BAD IT MAKES EVERY THING GO WACKO, MINE TOO RAN BETTER WITH THE VACUUM LINE DISCONNECTED, IT ACTUALLY LOWERS THE FUEL PRESSURE, AND THE O2S ARE READING LEAN, BECAUSE EVERYTHING IS WACKED. WHEN ONE THING GOES WRONG THE COMPUTER WILL TELL YOU ITS EVERYTHING.
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