Installing Fuel Pump.....have ????'s

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 03:23 PM

First off, I've never done any kind of fuel pump install on anything. I went under there and looked around and I know I have to lower the 2 straps with the 2 bolts towards the front of the car and lower the tank. I am also going to change the fuel filter, which I also saw. Anything I should look for or watch out for? I will probably have an extra person to help me with lowering the tank, although I have no more than a 1/4 tank of gas. Thanx in advance guys!

Matt

Conman · 07-17-2002, 03:39 PM

it is pretty straight forward and you shouldn't have any problems

a couple hints though:

1. burn as much gas out of it as you can

2. the pump comes out of the top of the tank, clean this area well before you pull the pump or else you will get dirt in your tank

3. you should use a brass punch to turn the thing that holds the pump in. Steel on steel can cause sparks. (if you don't know the thing I'm talking about you will see it when you lower the tank)

4. depending on how many miles you have on the car and what the weather is like in your area you may need to replace the rubber filler tube seal, mine was destroyed but somehow it didn't leak, it leaked bad once I put it back together, had to pull it apart again.

like I said, it's pretty straight forward

Conrad

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 03:51 PM

OH, How the heck do I get those clips off the fuel filter?? I don't wanna break em.....

89 Cobra LX · 07-17-2002, 03:57 PM

You have to break them... at least I did. I went to Ford for replacements.

Lethal5Oh · 07-17-2002, 03:59 PM

I just got done doing the same as you. Definitly get someone else to help you. As far as the clips, you should replace them anyway so just break em. Just push the "legs" apart and pull on the other end to get them out. Good luck.

Ieatcamaros · 07-17-2002, 04:00 PM

the replacement clips should come with your fuel filter. And the pump too. i would get a new rubber seal that fits around the filler neck too. one more thing that hasn't been mentioned yet. if you are getting a stock replacement, i don't believe they come with a new sock(the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump). you will definitely want a new one.

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 04:55 PM

uuuhhhh I just took out the fuel filter and wasn't paying attention at the way it came out and don't remember which way it flows. I'm pretty sure the line from the tank goes in and the other end goes out. By the way, I did buy a new sock and I did get new clips with the fuel filter. When I lower the straps with the tank come to the ground or just hang there?? And the clips were easy, they just came out....I just pushed them out from the other side.

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 05:35 PM

oh sh*t, did I do something wrong.........I took off the 2 straps and everything came off the car.....The only way it's attached is by the gas spout (where u put gas in the car). Did I do something wrong?? where am I sopposed to go from here?? HELP!! lol

Ieatcamaros · 07-17-2002, 06:01 PM

You are right on the fuel filter direction. Just be sure the direction of the gas matches the direction on the filter.

That is the way the tank comes out. You did nothing wrong.

From here, you need a brass punch or something to unscrew the fuel pump sending unit bracket from the tank. Then, just swap the fuel pumps. Hint: Put the fuel pump in the sending unit and then put the sock on. There is a rubber gasket that goes in between the pump and the sending unit on the sock side(bottom). You need this. Be sure to get the wires right on the pump. Another suggestion, if the sending unit is rusty, wire brush it off. This way, there is less trash in the tank.

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 06:07 PM

Well I lowered the tank to the ground and I see nothing but 2 electrical connectors on the top of the tank and 3 fuel line hook-ups. Where is the pump?? I removed the connectors and I'm trying to unhook the fuel lines to remove the tank from under the car so it will be easier to work on, but one of the lines just won't come off. Maybe it's me but I'm not seeing this fuel pump anywhere or anything to open up the tank.....Thanx

Matt

Ieatcamaros · 07-17-2002, 06:19 PM

Okay, when you drop the tank straight down, look on top of the tank. Right there where the lines connect is the top of the sending unit. There is a large nut that screws into the tank. Nut it is no ordinary nut. It is flat with four places sticking up to beat on. You have to unscrew it with a punch of some kind and a hammer. You don't want to use a regular punch because sparks will fly when you just barely strike it. NOT GOOD. I use a brass punch that I have. Once you unscrew it, then pull the sending unit out of the tank. The pump is at the bottom. There are wires there too. Those are the ones I was referring to. Like mentioned before, after you pull the sending unit out, clean the area around the hole. Less trash will enter the tank when you put it back in. BTW, it is a helluva lot easier once you get those lines off the sending unit. It is a good idea to replace the rubber filler neck seal while you got the tank out. The tank has to be dropped to replace it.

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 06:52 PM

I understand what you are saying now that I am looking at it but I do not know what a punch is and I can not get one of the lines off at all. I can twist it and all but I can not pull it off......

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 07:52 PM

sorry about me freaking out guys, I just don't want to screw it up. I got all the connections off the top of the sending unit and tank, now I just need to go buy a brass punch. It seems like it should be easy from here. I think I got that rubber seal, that u guys are talking about, with the new pump. The only prob I may see myself having is raising the tank back up......thanx guys

Matt

Hethj7 · 07-17-2002, 08:56 PM

I slid a floor jack under the tank to aid in putting it back on. I actually did this myself...wouldn't recommend that. It was a real pain. Get a friend

!

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 09:38 PM

I went to look for a brass punch tonight and couldn't find one so I am just going to use a screwdriver and hammer to loosen the nut tomorrow.

Ieatcamaros · 07-17-2002, 10:13 PM

You can use a screwdriver. Just be careful when you do it. You certainly don't want to blow yourself up. That would suck. Remember that the fumes are more flammable than the gas.

It would definitely help if you at least had one friend to help. It goes real smooth with 2 friends. I would siphon most of that gas out of the tank. You'd be surprised how much that will help.

You're doin good so far. If you have any problems just come here, one of us will help. Just remeber to post as much information about it as you can. So we don't have to ask you questions to help you.

MattwantsSpeed · 07-17-2002, 10:40 PM

Since the fumes are more flammable, I would assume that I should do this outside in a "well ventilated" area and cover the spout hole on the side of the tank so no fumes escape?

Ieatcamaros · 07-18-2002, 06:38 AM

You can if you want to. Even if you cover the filler hole with a rag, the fumes are still going to escape. It has to be sealed in order for the fumes not to escape. You want to do this is a well ventilated area. Or even outside.

8d850 · 07-18-2002, 10:27 AM

I wouldn't even chance using a screwdriver. If you can't find a brass punch try using a piece of wood. Maybe a wooden dowel or something like that. I just did mine last week and putting the tank back was the hardest part. I had my 10 year old and his friend both using floor jacks while I was pushing the tank up to put the bolts in. LOL It's all in the balancing. Definitely awkward!!

drudis · 07-18-2002, 10:34 AM

[Didnt read the whole thread]
But you gotta remove the tank straps, lower the tank (with a big towel on the saddle) of the floorjack...
Remove the old pump by "unscrewing" the fitting with a hammer and wooden (no spark) dowel.
Watch not to snap any fuel lines.
Support the fuel lines so they dont siphon the fuel downhill.

07-17-2002, 03:23 PM	#1
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	Installing Fuel Pump.....have ????'s First off, I've never done any kind of fuel pump install on anything. I went under there and looked around and I know I have to lower the 2 straps with the 2 bolts towards the front of the car and lower the tank. I am also going to change the fuel filter, which I also saw. Anything I should look for or watch out for? I will probably have an extra person to help me with lowering the tank, although I have no more than a 1/4 tank of gas. Thanx in advance guys! Matt __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 03:39 PM	#2
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	it is pretty straight forward and you shouldn't have any problems a couple hints though: 1. burn as much gas out of it as you can 2. the pump comes out of the top of the tank, clean this area well before you pull the pump or else you will get dirt in your tank 3. you should use a brass punch to turn the thing that holds the pump in. Steel on steel can cause sparks. (if you don't know the thing I'm talking about you will see it when you lower the tank) 4. depending on how many miles you have on the car and what the weather is like in your area you may need to replace the rubber filler tube seal, mine was destroyed but somehow it didn't leak, it leaked bad once I put it back together, had to pull it apart again. like I said, it's pretty straight forward Conrad __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

07-17-2002, 03:51 PM	#3
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	OH, How the heck do I get those clips off the fuel filter?? I don't wanna break em..... __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 03:57 PM	#4
89 Cobra LX Don Corlione Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Omaha NE USA Posts: 491	Sorry You have to break them... at least I did. I went to Ford for replacements. __________________ Eric - 89 Mustang LX coupe 5 speed 302-Cobra Intake-GT40p heads-TFS stage 1 cam-FRPP 1.6 roller rockers-3:73 gears-KYB shocks and struts-Eibach Pro-kit-HPM Mega-bite upper and lower control arms-FRPP aluminum driveshaft-16x8 Chrome Cobra Rs R.H.C. #14

07-17-2002, 03:59 PM	#5
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	I just got done doing the same as you. Definitly get someone else to help you. As far as the clips, you should replace them anyway so just break em. Just push the "legs" apart and pull on the other end to get them out. Good luck. __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

07-17-2002, 04:00 PM	#6
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	the replacement clips should come with your fuel filter. And the pump too. i would get a new rubber seal that fits around the filler neck too. one more thing that hasn't been mentioned yet. if you are getting a stock replacement, i don't believe they come with a new sock(the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump). you will definitely want a new one. __________________ The sig says it all.

07-17-2002, 04:55 PM	#7
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	uuuhhhh I just took out the fuel filter and wasn't paying attention at the way it came out and don't remember which way it flows. I'm pretty sure the line from the tank goes in and the other end goes out. By the way, I did buy a new sock and I did get new clips with the fuel filter. When I lower the straps with the tank come to the ground or just hang there?? And the clips were easy, they just came out....I just pushed them out from the other side. __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 05:35 PM	#8
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	oh sht, did I do something wrong.........I took off the 2 straps and everything came off the car.....The only way it's attached is by the gas spout (where u put gas in the car). Did I do something wrong?? where am I sopposed to go from here?? HELP!! lol __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16 timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 06:01 PM	#9
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	You are right on the fuel filter direction. Just be sure the direction of the gas matches the direction on the filter. That is the way the tank comes out. You did nothing wrong. From here, you need a brass punch or something to unscrew the fuel pump sending unit bracket from the tank. Then, just swap the fuel pumps. Hint: Put the fuel pump in the sending unit and then put the sock on. There is a rubber gasket that goes in between the pump and the sending unit on the sock side(bottom). You need this. Be sure to get the wires right on the pump. Another suggestion, if the sending unit is rusty, wire brush it off. This way, there is less trash in the tank. __________________ The sig says it all.

07-17-2002, 06:07 PM	#10
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	Well I lowered the tank to the ground and I see nothing but 2 electrical connectors on the top of the tank and 3 fuel line hook-ups. Where is the pump?? I removed the connectors and I'm trying to unhook the fuel lines to remove the tank from under the car so it will be easier to work on, but one of the lines just won't come off. Maybe it's me but I'm not seeing this fuel pump anywhere or anything to open up the tank.....Thanx Matt __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 06:19 PM	#11
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Okay, when you drop the tank straight down, look on top of the tank. Right there where the lines connect is the top of the sending unit. There is a large nut that screws into the tank. Nut it is no ordinary nut. It is flat with four places sticking up to beat on. You have to unscrew it with a punch of some kind and a hammer. You don't want to use a regular punch because sparks will fly when you just barely strike it. NOT GOOD. I use a brass punch that I have. Once you unscrew it, then pull the sending unit out of the tank. The pump is at the bottom. There are wires there too. Those are the ones I was referring to. Like mentioned before, after you pull the sending unit out, clean the area around the hole. Less trash will enter the tank when you put it back in. BTW, it is a helluva lot easier once you get those lines off the sending unit. It is a good idea to replace the rubber filler neck seal while you got the tank out. The tank has to be dropped to replace it. __________________ The sig says it all.

07-17-2002, 06:52 PM	#12
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	I understand what you are saying now that I am looking at it but I do not know what a punch is and I can not get one of the lines off at all. I can twist it and all but I can not pull it off...... __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 07:52 PM	#13
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	sorry about me freaking out guys, I just don't want to screw it up. I got all the connections off the top of the sending unit and tank, now I just need to go buy a brass punch. It seems like it should be easy from here. I think I got that rubber seal, that u guys are talking about, with the new pump. The only prob I may see myself having is raising the tank back up......thanx guys Matt __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 08:56 PM	#14
Hethj7 Mizzou Tigers Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: weston, MO United States Posts: 1,455	I slid a floor jack under the tank to aid in putting it back on. I actually did this myself...wouldn't recommend that. It was a real pain. Get a friend ! __________________ 2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244

07-17-2002, 09:38 PM	#15
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	I went to look for a brass punch tonight and couldn't find one so I am just going to use a screwdriver and hammer to loosen the nut tomorrow. __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-17-2002, 10:13 PM	#16
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	You can use a screwdriver. Just be careful when you do it. You certainly don't want to blow yourself up. That would suck. Remember that the fumes are more flammable than the gas. It would definitely help if you at least had one friend to help. It goes real smooth with 2 friends. I would siphon most of that gas out of the tank. You'd be surprised how much that will help. You're doin good so far. If you have any problems just come here, one of us will help. Just remeber to post as much information about it as you can. So we don't have to ask you questions to help you. __________________ The sig says it all.

07-17-2002, 10:40 PM	#17
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	Since the fumes are more flammable, I would assume that I should do this outside in a "well ventilated" area and cover the spout hole on the side of the tank so no fumes escape? __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-18-2002, 06:38 AM	#18
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	You can if you want to. Even if you cover the filler hole with a rag, the fumes are still going to escape. It has to be sealed in order for the fumes not to escape. You want to do this is a well ventilated area. Or even outside. __________________ The sig says it all.

07-18-2002, 10:27 AM	#19
8d850 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 19	fuel pump I wouldn't even chance using a screwdriver. If you can't find a brass punch try using a piece of wood. Maybe a wooden dowel or something like that. I just did mine last week and putting the tank back was the hardest part. I had my 10 year old and his friend both using floor jacks while I was pushing the tank up to put the bolts in. LOL It's all in the balancing. Definitely awkward!!

07-18-2002, 10:34 AM	#20
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	[Didnt read the whole thread] But you gotta remove the tank straps, lower the tank (with a big towel on the saddle) of the floorjack... Remove the old pump by "unscrewing" the fitting with a hammer and wooden (no spark) dowel. Watch not to snap any fuel lines. Support the fuel lines so they dont siphon the fuel downhill. __________________ Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Fuel Pump Problems	blue302	Windsor Power	3	07-08-2005 10:18 PM
Fuel Pump?	Dean Malaxos	Small Ponies	3	02-09-2004 02:52 PM
94 GT fuel pump relay	phantom74	Windsor Power	0	02-01-2004 07:14 PM
Possible Fuel pump failure	FiveORookie	Windsor Power	1	12-23-2002 01:28 PM
Fuel pump relay questions	Big Bopper	Windsor Power	1	11-10-2002 10:20 PM