JB Weld... Will it work??
 

I seemed to have cracked the EGR tube in my rookie attempt to remove it. I needed to remove the upper intake to replace a leaking fuel injector. Anyway, instead of replacing the tube which is a dealer only item ($100) I was wondering if the JB weld compound would work.

Has anyone used this stuff for this type of application add does it work?

Also... I can get my hands on a free injector but it is not a direct match for the OEM unit. I think the OEM unit is a 19# single hole injector. This is a 19# 4 hole injector with the same flow rate, both made by Bosch I believe. Do you think I will have any issues with this. I'm concerned about emissions and/or running conditions.

Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks

Mustang 19# injectors are a dime a dozen so I would just get a 19 # injector from a stang.

JB weld should work for a quick fix, but I wouldnt consider it permanent.

A dime a dozen... not at $110 to $165 each. That is what I have been quoted for a single injector. I have a few leads on some free injectors. The first lead comes right from Ford (these are the 4-hole injectors). One of my buddies has injectors from an '89 302. I'm assuming they should work with no problem.

I don't know why one injector costs so much if I can get a whole set online for $210.00(US).

$60 at Orilley, brand new OEM replacement. I would go that route before buying a different style. Thats just my opinion.

I've heard of people using JB weld as an emergency patch for older engine cylinders, so I sure dont think a little vaccume is going to hurt it any.

I used some as a gasket on an intake on an old car when I ditched the old "Thermal coil in the cup" choke assembly in favor of an electric choke, worked just fine.

Word of warning, wear gloves. it dosent burn your skin or anything, but if it gets in contact, it will take a week to wear off. A cheap pair of rubber gloves might let you get a finger in the tube to smoothe out the inside of it and pack a bit up on the inside as an anchor.

JB Weld is great for the things that duct tape cant handle. :D

When installing my Novi, I busted a vacuum line. A little JB Weld is all it took to fix it. It's held up fine ever since.

If you get some JB on your hands or fingers, just wash them before it has a chance to dry. I've never used gloves but it would be a decent idea if you're going to be working with alot of JB.

Silver,
I believe I still have all 8 of my 19# injectors laying around from when I put in my 30lbers. If you want, I can take a look and see if they are still around. If they are, and you want one, let me know. I'll get it mailed off to you for free, to include shipping. I have no need for them.

Chris

Hey if you can get new ones for free then go for it.. but worst case you might wanna just buy a new set of 24s or 30s... cause, lets be honest, you're going to want to upgrade other stuff at some point so might as well upgrade this stuff while you have it apart anyway
-as

If you're talking about the vacuum hose, just replace it. If you're referring to the metal tube, JB will work for a while, but not forever, as already mentioned.

The air injection tubes on my truck need replacing, and because I'm too cheap to cough up $125 for a new set, I tried using JB on the cracks. So far they're still holding up, but if you look at it too long, it will start to crumble. lol. JB doesn't like sustained high temps.

Take care,
~Chris

yeah i grabbed 8 when i got a spare 351 truck manifold everything was $7.50 plus tax a pick a part.(the price of the manifold not charged for fuel rail or injectors)

i sometimes toy with the idea of using a older vortech style driver and weld in some extra injectors into the manifold.

cant help with the EGR tube because i cant remember what they look like or are made from if its the small white tube i think i once used shrink tubbing to fix a crack.

i can ask a friend about purolating 3-4 to you cause ive never tested them .

Ps how did you determin which injector was leaking

also one cost so much because they want you to replace the whole set. and normally ford has to break up a set to sell one.

i too broke the egr tube when trying to take it off when i first got my car. I tried just about everything, i tried jb weld with the cast type muffler wrap around that (15 layers). no matter what i did the muffler wrap would blow out, and the jb weld would eventually either melt off or just crumble.
i ended up making a plate to block off my egr, and plugged the port in the header:confused:

Chris, thanks for the offer. If either of my leads don't work out I might need to take you up on it. I'll let you know in a few days.

BlLster : Here is how I found out. I first noticed the smell of fuel after a long drive (8hrs). When I got home from my trip I took a closer look under the hood and saw a pool of fuel sitting on my intake manifold on the passenger side. I'm lucky it didn't drip on the exhaust pipe or I might have been on the news :D . Anyway... I could see that the #3 injector was wet with fuel. I removed the passenger side rail and switched out all 8 injector o-rings (freebee from Ford... it is good to work in the auto industry). I then put everything back where they came from. Fired her up and #3 was still leaking. I could see it starting from the top and soaking the injector from top to bottom. I thought I might have rolled the o-ring or maybe the rail was damaged so I took it all apart again and this time moved the injector from cylinder #3 to #2. Guess what... the leak followed the injector even with a replaced upper o-ring. This time I can see the leak (#3 injector on the 94/95 302 is hard to see since it is under the upper intake manifold). The leak wasn't coming from the upper o-ring, it was coming from the side of the injector housing (the plastic orange section). The Ford engineers I talked too mentioned that these injectors tend to fail internally.

About the tube.... for anyone who is confused it is the stainless steel tube which runs from the exhaust header to the EGR valve. It has two fittings and a sheath covering the tube. IT sounds like JB weld isn't going to be worth the trouble so I will get the OEM replacement. I can't believe how fragile it is, I didn't even put any real force on it yet it nearly cracked in half just below the convolutes. Not the greatest design...

SN95gt19: I'd even consider blocking it off but I think I wouldn't pass the emissions test. How well did the engine run with it blocked?

Thanks for all the replies... I feel the brotherhood:D !!

blah I used JB Weld to seal up the smog holes in the back of my heads.

i didnt notice any difference with it plugged, the check engine light didnt even come on:confused:

Stupid ???
 

I have an 86 with the H.O. engine my EGR valve has never had a hose on it could some one tell me where the other end goes...


Thanx..

brussell,

on later model (94 and up) 5.0 HO's with the angled throttle side of the intake have a tube that comes from the passenger side header instead of like the earlier ones where the EGR tube goes through the upper intake. You know when you take off your upper intake and there is the round hole in the middle of the gasket between the two sets of four ports? (well maybe you've never done that, but if you had) That hole is the EGR port. Your EGR valve has two holes going into it, one goes to part of the intake around the outside of the throttle inlet that the exhaust gas moves through. The other goes into the throttle inlet. So on the outside all you have is the valve and a vacuum actuator tube. Hope that answers your question.