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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
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![]() Hey guys I need a little help. I recently purchased my dream car, a 1992 Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible. It is my goal to learn everything I can about the car, including the mechanics generally. So if you all could guide me from time to time on various things, I would truly appreciate it.
My immediate problem is the fuel pump. I thought it was out of gas (gas guage does not work, have to go by mileage), after starting the car sputtered and died. It would not start again. The engine will turn over, it just will not start. I put about a gallon of gas in it and it still would not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump was not engaging when I turned the key on. I was about to buy a new one when I started reading some other things it might be. Could you give me some guidance on how to figure this out? This helpless newbie female would be forever grateful!!!! ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
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![]() Welcome..
There is a relay as well as inertia switch that could be problems. I THINK the inertia switch is in the trunk... it shuts off fuel in case of an accident. Go pick up a chiltons or simlar manual for your car, it will help alot more than you know.. and it should tell you how to check them.. Verts are cool ![]()
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84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
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![]() Ok, the fuel pump relay is under the mass air meter. Passenger side fender. The inertia switch is under the panel by the tail lights, it should have a reset button. The relay should click when you turn the ignition swicth on...
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84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
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![]() I just tried your suggestions. The relay switch does click when I turn the key on. And I checked the inertia switch. Does this mean it's the fuel pump? I did wash under the hood a few days ago. Could the water have messed something up?
Sorry if that sounds dumb. I'm fairly intelligent. And a very fast learner. ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
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![]() Did it work before you washed under the hood? Might get a code reader too..
The only dumb question is the un-asked one ![]()
__________________
84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() Definitely put a scanner on it first, beats dropping the tank if you don't have too.
Install a liquid-filled fuel pressure gauge (cheap) at the schrader valve on your fuel line. It's located near the front lower corner of the passenger side valve cover. It's good to have for troubleshooting anyway and a wise investment if you are going to keep the 'stang for any length of time. Let us know...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
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![]() I plan on keeping it for a long time. That is if I can get her back on the road again. Now, how do I test for fuel pressure?
Be patient with me. ![]() |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() You can either:
a) Hook up a gauge with a stainless sheathed hose and schrader valve to temporarily check fuel pressure, borrowed from a shop if you know a mechanic b) Install a simple screw in gauge let us know...
__________________
1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 49
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![]() Don't forget the Control Module, that was what was wrong with mine, it would crank and crank but not fireup.
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
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![]() Thanks for all your help so far. A friend told me to put my ear up next to the open fuel tank door and listen while someone turns the key to the start position. He said if I heard anything that the fuel pump was working, if I heard nothing, it was not.
When I did this, there was no noise whatsoever. This in addition to hardly any fuel pressure draws me to the conclusion that it is after all the fuel pump unfortunately. I have, therefore ran into another little problem. I can find nothing to fit the screws holding the gas tanki straps. The screws are also painted over. PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT! I AM GETTING SO FRUSTRATED. Another friend also told me that installing the new pump under the hood would be more convenient since I plan to someday put a high performance one on. He said this would eleminate having to remove the tank. Can this be done, and if so, please explain in very detailed terms how. Thanks so much for your help so far!! |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
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![]() You dont want a fuel pump under the hood, to hot, and you want the pump as close to the tank as possible. There are plenty of performance fuel pumps for the stang too..
This might help with the install. The 1st link is for a BBK pump. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../scinpump.html http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/fpinstall.html
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84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() The aforementioned link looks good...
Since you're keeping your stang, get a shop manual. Not a Chilton's or Haynes, a Ford Shop manual. They come in a letter series for our models. The bolts are 13mm, if I remember correctly. I pulled the negative lead off the battery, jacked the rear end up at the pumpkin, removed the 3 screws at the filler neck, 7/16ths ?, used a 1/2" pneumatic wrench, 12" extension, and a deep 14mm socket for the strap bolts. Hopefully, you got only a gallon or two in the tank, otherwise it'll be a little awkward. I'd recommend having a friend help you. Lower it carefully, you don't want to break any lines/fittings as you lower it. The fuel pump module is on the passenger side of the tank, the fuel level indicator is in the center. Use a brass punch and synthetic mallet to remove the lock ring on the fuel pump, replace the gasket and pump, you'll have to reconnect two electrical wires to the new pump, put the new filter on too, it's a pita but make sure it's seated correctly. For your application a 195lph pump will be adequate. Change the fuel filter while you are at it. It's right there attached to the underside of the body just forward of the tank.
__________________
1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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