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07-16-2002, 08:39 PM | #41 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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Theres no question that NADA and KBB are numbers the dealer wants you to believe, and thus pay the listed price in the book, thinking you are getting a good deal, and actually paying thousands to much.
This is why I say Edmunds is more realistic. The prices they list are considerably lower than others at times, and more closely resemble the cars "real value", not the overinflated value that gets printed in the NADA and KBB for the dealers to leach off of you with. |
07-16-2002, 10:01 PM | #42 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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MACH 1 , I guess it's true then. Your reputation precedes you!!
Ignorant, obnoxious, rude and yes, sometimes, like now, a complete *******!! I don't know why but you just can't ever seem to answer a post without an attitude. Right now I have one because you pissed me off. All the replies made to these post are opinions of the readers and they are entitled to them. MACH 1 , on the other hand, feels superior to the rest of us and thinks he knows it all. Hell, why bother posting on the message board when we can just email you for all the answers. If it makes you feel better to put other peope down then that's your problem. I also guess that everyone else that replied with an estimate is stupid and below your intellect because they are all above your $1500 price. I also recall saying that I would start at $3200 and go from there. I didn't say it was worth $3200 You should feel proud MACH 1 , you have lived up tp your reputation!! They ruined a perfect ******* by putting teeth in your mouth!!
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
07-16-2002, 10:51 PM | #43 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 5,246
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Bottom line is, anything is worth what you're willing to sell it for or what somebody else is willing to buy it for.
I find nothing wrong with Mach 1's statements here. The only statements I really have an issue with is the idea of taking advantage of some young kid. Were you not a young kid once? I've been screwed on cars before, and it can really mess a persons plans up, bad. Ask a fair price and leave the screwing to the lawyers. Here's what I know from buying 6 different Mustangs, and 9 cars overall. The dealers are usually the best places to find deals on Mustang GT's in the fox era. They don't think the POS is part of the family, and they just want the thing off the damn lot. If you want it to sell, price it to sell. Nobody wants to negotiate a lot on a heap. If the car is worth $1500, as in this case an accurate price for a car with shoddy bodywork, underbody welding, crappy paint that doesn't match, a questionable tranny, shot carpet, poorly fit together interior, and hidden damage from accidents, then I think asking $3200 will more than likely 1. Tick people off for wasting their time when they come out to look at a $3200 car and find a $1500 car. (It'd tick me off) 2. If accurately portrayed on the initial phone call, nobody will come and look at it. I drove 200mi from Ardmore, OK to Tulsa, OK to look at a 1987GT Convertable priced at $3500. Long story short, it was comparable to what is listed by RPM 427. I was irate that I wasted my time. I didn't even bother test driving it. I felt sorry for the kid though. He had been in an accident (friends car) and was on crutches. He lost his job because of it and needed money badly. That's pretty much why he had the car priced the way he did. Best way to sell a car? Price it at what you truely feel market value is, or a little less. If you don't think the price it where you want it idea works, you need to buy a few more cars. I don't like negotiating. I like to know what somebody wants so I know whether I can get it, and I know what I'm really gonna be looking at. IE. Mustang priced at $5000/OBO Now means $5000 or maybe $4700 if they feel like taking. OBO is just a little tag on the end saying make an offer, and maybe I'll take it. Mustang priced at $4000 firm. Which am I gonna look at first? LOL. Not even a question, the $4k car. Why? I don't want to waste my time on a potentially good deal by bargaining with a guy who may not go that low. I tend to do a little market research before I buy. |
07-16-2002, 11:23 PM | #44 |
Yay for Chickys
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,532
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Damn, Mach you had a rep and I wasn't privy to it?? Sounds like locker room gossip ala MW!
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07-17-2002, 12:52 AM | #45 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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1500-2000 dollar car
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
07-17-2002, 06:17 AM | #46 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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Quote:
Lmao..Yeah, 82 GT's complete ignorance and lack of temper control doesnt even deserve a response. Its all out there for anybody to see if interested in who started the name calling. later |
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07-17-2002, 07:46 AM | #47 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Huntington NY
Posts: 573
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The car was taken to a proffesional body shop to have the front end and floor pan fixed. That was when I thought I was going to keep the car for a while. Then about a month later, someone backed into it at a supermarket and put a huge dent above the wheel well on the drivers side fender. I replaced the fender myself and the body shop (not the same one) did a bad job of matching the paint. After fiquring out how much it would cost to do a really nice paint job and convert the interior to grey or black (I HATE red), it was more economical to just buy a newer car that had good paint and perfect interior.
That stuff about the flood damage and accidents was just some history about the car, not its present condition. I just wanted to make that clear. I am not going to lie about the condition, I am not expecting to get $3,200 for it. I am in no rush and would rather try and sell it at $3200 for a week or so to test the waters. I WILL be honest, the last thing I want is someone driving back to my house and telling me its not what he thought. If people laugh at me when I say 3k, then so be it. I will ask less. I'd rather start there then find out i could of sold it for 2.5k rather then starting the price at 2k.
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-1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out! Last edited by RPM427; 07-17-2002 at 07:53 AM.. |
07-17-2002, 08:59 AM | #48 |
Yay for Chickys
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,532
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Well good luck! One man's trash IS another man's treasure Hopefully your Stang will find a good home for a price that pleases both buyer and seller
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07-17-2002, 09:06 AM | #49 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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Selling the 'Ol Stang
RPM427:
Just a reminder: Be certain to tell the buyer and write on the receipt you give the buyer of your car: No Warranty - Sold As Is. Once that car leaves your property and the money has changed hands, you don't want to be hassled everytime the car has a problem from that point on and at 110,000 miles, it will and we all know it. So should the buyer. It's a 13-year-old car with high mileage on it. I sold a lot of older cars (privately) and always made it clear that I'm not a dealer and I can't guarantee anything on an old car with over 100k. It may run great today and pop a head gasket tomorrow. Chance you take on a car priced at ten percent of what a new car costs. Unit has a point; I always price any car I sell as 'FIRM'' which means: no deals, take it or leave it at that price. Never had a problem. Obviously everybody has a number for you (sounds like the old game show, 'The Price is Right') but an ad is cheap. Price it at what you think is possible ($3200.) and see what happens. If you get no takers or potential buyers laugh when they see the car then lower the asking price but you should get $2,500. if you're not in a rush and clean it up to the best shape possible. In my opinion, the factory T-5 is worth an extra $500. alone. I've seen posts here from folks desperate for an older Mustang and they cry about not being able to find a stick shift on the market. You'll do fine. |
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