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#1 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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![]() Any body who make a good ladder bar setup? I have checked with Chassis Engineering but its a little more than I want to spend. Thanks.
------------------ '93 lx 4 banger, wrecked '90 lx 5.0, w/ t-5. .030 over fully ported and polihed (did that just to see if I could-first attempt at it). Motor and tranny in use for Ranger project. Cocked, locked and ready to rock Pony Power Forever |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ny
Posts: 197
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![]() s&w in pennsylvania. good setups, and good price. also, jegs, summit etc. they have the comp engineering for 230$
what do you want ladder bars for may i ask? plan on going 9's. youll also need coil over kit with shock and springs. |
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#3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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![]() IS that S&W race cars? I have also checked with them and I like their product as well. I am planning on going at least a 9 in the 1/8th. I am really gunning for a 8.8 all motor and an 8.6 with a 75 shot. The kit I priced from chassis is everything to do a complete rear clip, Frame rails, mounts, coil overs and all the hardware for $971.00. Thats not to much I don't think for the kit, It's actully 10% off the regular price because they are currently on back order but i dont want to spend over 500. I dont need frame rails as I will modify the factorys.
------------------ '93 lx 4 banger, wrecked '90 lx 5.0, w/ t-5. .030 over fully ported and polihed (did that just to see if I could-first attempt at it). Motor and tranny in use for Ranger project. Cocked, locked and ready to rock Pony Power Forever |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Dale City Va.
Posts: 516
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![]() I run S&W ladder bars. I'm very happy with their products. I did my entire tub job using all S&W parts. One thing I must mention though. No one makes a ladder bar short enough to fit up where the mufflers are on the fox body. This means you must mount the front ladder bar mounting bar in the rear passenger foot area. This is what I had to do. I have pictures and a write up on my site of the work I did. It will give you an idea on ladder bar setup. Go to www.flemworld.com look under How To's>>85How To's>>Full Tub.
Mike ------------------ Currently rebuilding my 85 Mustang GT from the frame up. Check out my site for info on my car and specific information on the 85 Mustang. http://www.FlemWorld.com |
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#5 | |
Dirk Diggler
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: SLOATSBURG, NY
Posts: 1,931
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![]() Quote:
------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch ![]() |
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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![]() Take into consideration this is all going on a Ranger. The rear will be cut behind the cab and new rails will be added. I was going to keep the factory frame rails but have since decided against it. I would like to get a 36" bar if possible. I am not wirried about location of muffs and such as all that will be routed around the rear as needed. I am also using the 9" rear out of a 75 lincoln because it is equipped with factory disc's. I will have it narrowed and be running Strange or Moser axles.
This IS NOT a drag truck. Just something to drive on the street mainly and take to the track occ. I want to have fun building and driving this truck. I'm not in a hurry so I am bascially doing a ground up like you Rustang. It will be equipped with an 8 point cage from CAchassisworks, and further modified and added to for bracing of the bed and rear clip. I bascally stripping everything factory off and replacing it all. the wiring for the lights, turn signals, wipers, and body will only remain factory. I am adding tubbs and a roll pan to the bed but other than that stock. The interior will retain the stock dash with guages replaced using Autometer Ultralites. I am also using the seats out of my Mustang for this project. ------------------ '93 lx 4 banger, wrecked '90 lx 5.0, w/ t-5. .030 over fully ported and polihed (did that just to see if I could-first attempt at it). Motor and tranny in use for Ranger project. Cocked, locked and ready to rock Pony Power Forever |
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#7 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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![]() LX XLR8R you have once again reineratied my point of having no idea what kind of times it will run. I want the truck to run as fast as possible with out sacrificing the hook so thats y I am using ladder bars. What kind of time would you think this truck will run in the quarter? It would be f'n cool if I could do a wheelie. ecspecially on the street, that would get some ricers thinkin twice.
------------------ '93 lx 4 banger, wrecked '90 lx 5.0, w/ t-5. .030 over fully ported and polihed (did that just to see if I could-first attempt at it). Motor and tranny in use for Ranger project. Cocked, locked and ready to rock Pony Power Forever |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Dale City Va.
Posts: 516
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![]() Didn't know it was for a Ranger just assumed it was for a Mustang. Ladder bars on a truck should be very simple. 36" should be good. I run a 9inch LS disc rear myself.
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