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Old 04-10-2002, 11:56 AM   #1
Stang_ROTY
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Question Anyone have advice on 393 stroker camshafts & stall speed?

I remember reading about how MM&FF took a FRPP crate 393 and replced the cam with a bigger and more radical profile and the HP #'s shot through the roof. Since my engine is very simialr, I want to replace my mild, street legal emissions passing cam (with no lumpy idle) and replace it with some lumpy beef. I understand that I'll never pass emissions and that's fine but I don't want to lose all driveability. Since my engine will be out next week and the intake will be off I asked my engine builder to put a new cam in for me. He said fine, but his opinion is if I lowered my stall speed I'll also to get some street satisfaction out of the car. So now I'm really confused as to if I really need to screw with the stalll speed or just bump up the cam. My current converter is 10 in. 3500 stall and my cam was designed for a 2500 stall so my combo isn't matching. My question is I get a new cam, what type of HP gains could I expect and what is 3500 stall to high for street use? Has anyone ever tried to play with cam profiles in a 351 or 393? Sorry if this is confusing but I'm trying to get a lot of info out in a "short" msg.
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Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 04-10-2002, 10:42 PM   #2
red82gt
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In my opinion 3500 is pretty high for a street motor that big. The 393's got lots of torque so I'd just put in a 2500rpm converter for a streetable car. If I wanted ET at the strip, I'd do the cam.
If you notice, that dyno test didn't make more power until after 5500 rpm or so. If you go to a bigger cam you should also change the valvesprings. I think you'd need heads with a little more flow than the Edel. RPM's to really make significantly more power on a motor that big.

In other words, I'd do the converter.
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Old 04-11-2002, 11:14 AM   #3
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Good point about the higher rev's making the extra horses. Since my budget doesn't cover new heads I'll go with the converter, if possible. I say "if possible" because Harold from Dynamic Racing said that a 2500 stall speed would be a 11 in. converter which would be too big for the SFI bellhousing. Have you ever heard of a 2500 stall speed converter fitting into a C4 SFI bell?
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Red 1993 GT Street Machine
Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 04-11-2002, 03:01 PM   #4
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call comp cams or crane and find out what they would suggest for your combo or look into a custom cam also you should probably becide both together as stall speed will effect the cam profile


i only stall when i let the wife drive.

Crane Cam 228/228 @ .050" .512/.512" lift. but im thinking of converting to a roller set up eveen though ive been told its a waste of money but i drive the car all year and want to play with
the ramp profile . plus i want to get beter heads also so if the heads are off why not.
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Old 04-11-2002, 03:34 PM   #5
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Comp Cams is pretty good. A guy by the name of Jason helped with my current cam that passed emissions. However, he doesn't work there anymore and the guy I spoke to yesterday was a jerk.
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Red 1993 GT Street Machine
Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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