Lentech AOD???

jz_mustang50 · 10-07-2001, 09:18 PM

Hey everyone. I'm looking at a Lentech to replace my AOD. The AOD that is in the car now has the wrong tail shaft, so I was thinking about making it right again with everything correct, so the driveshaft will fit right again. I'm thinking this tranny will be backing a motor that will potentially running 11's or maybe high 10's within a year (likely 11's). What tranny from them should I get, and what will it cost? Do i want the upto 400HP or uptp 700 HP? Can i choose a stall speed I want??? Is the transbreak something I should get??

------------------
Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

LfiveohX · 10-07-2001, 09:26 PM

I love mine. Call lentech and ask the techline what they recommend. They told me for the daily driver mustang to go with the non-lock up converter because the locking converter is noisy and klunks when shifting into overdrive. I got the Street Terminator Plus which has the 10" converter and hardened shaft. They said it will have no problems with up to 600hp. The valve body also eliminates the AOD Shuffle. You need to wire a on/off switch for the Overdrive and L is now 1st, Drive is now 2nd, and Overdrive is 3rd and 1-3 with Overdrive depending if the switch is on or off. Pretty sweet.

------------------
1993 Conv. LX 5.0, FRPP 302 longblock w/Y303 aluminum heads, E303 cam. 93 cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, Aeromotive AFPR, Underdrive pullies, Motorsport ceramic coated shorty headers, Bassani X-pipe w/converters, American Thunder Cat-back, Lentech AOD, Alum. driveshaft, 3.73's. Best E.T. 13.98 @ 99.78mph w/ 2.171 60' (Fontana Dragway 10/06/01)

jz_mustang50 · 10-08-2001, 12:18 PM

LFiveOhX... What did that cost you? I tried to call today, but its Canadian Thanksgiving, so they are closed! OHHHHHHHH Anyone else have an idea? I visited the website, but I've heard people getting better prices then what the site said!

Let me know! My aod is about to die!

------------------
Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

LfiveohX · 10-08-2001, 01:31 PM

It was $2395.00 delivered. Free shipping and no sales tax (Canada). You'll also need a good trans cooler if you don't already have one. You also need to buy a 12 volt on/off switch ($3.00 at auto parts store) and that's it. Good luck!

------------------
1993 Conv. LX 5.0, FRPP 302 longblock w/Y303 aluminum heads, E303 cam. 93 cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, Aeromotive AFPR, Underdrive pullies, Motorsport ceramic coated shorty headers, Bassani X-pipe w/converters, American Thunder Cat-back, Lentech AOD, Alum. driveshaft, 3.73's. Best E.T. 13.98 @ 99.78mph w/ 2.171 60' (Fontana Dragway 10/06/01)

10-08-2001, 04:59 PM

The Lentech was the best thing we've ever done for our Mustang. After breaking four T5s, I had my fill of them. Our Pure Street Terminator Lock-up went the full season without ANY problems what-so-ever. I'm actually making less power than last year (tired motor) but was still able to go more than six-tenths quicker and 5mph faster than my average from last year. Give Len and the guys the chance and they'll hook you up with a bullet-proof trans. I just dropped the pan on mine last weekend and the fluid was absolutely perfect...and that's even launching off the transbrake. Well worth the cost IMHO.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
T/S #3
11.462 Seconds/117.43 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

Fox Body · 10-08-2001, 07:17 PM

Thank you for starting this thread. I have pretty much decided to exchange my C4 for a Lentech AOD transmission, but had some of the same exact question you asked. They have been pretty much answered here.

I assume that I can get the same neck-braking shifting w/ a Lentech as with my C4, just with the added feature of overdrive? Is that how it works?

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX begins!!!

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

10-08-2001, 07:34 PM

Mine will bark my 8.5 inch slicks on both shifts and the transbrake is lightning quick. The transbrake action helped me make more than a few rounds when I was actually out-ET'd. The lockup function is awesome. If I'm neck and neck with a stick car when I activate lock-up, I just pull away. Its like having another gear.

When you've got Len, Chris or Ross on the phone, just ask them about how my car has improved this season. We improved week-by-week as we learned more about the transmission. They've been absolutely fantastic about helping us get the most out of the combination. IMHO, there's not a soul out there that knows more about the AOD than Len.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
T/S #3
11.462 Seconds/117.43 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

[This message has been edited by jchambers (edited 10-08-2001).]

Fox Body · 10-09-2001, 04:53 PM

I know the FRPP Al driveshaft for the C4 and the AOD is the same one. Does this apply for the Lentech AOD as well? If I buy the Al one now with my C4, would I be able to use it for the Lentech or would I have to get it cut or something?

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX begins!!!

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

Jeff Chambers · 10-10-2001, 06:36 AM

The FRPP AL driveshaft will work just fine. The Lentech AOD starts its life as a OEM AOD core before being reincarnated to a higher life form. Looks just the same, fits just the same, IS just the same with the exception of those magical Lentech innards!

------------------
Jeff Chambers
Trophy Stock #3
11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

jz_mustang50 · 10-10-2001, 07:58 AM

Hey Jeff Chambers and others who know alot -

I'm looking at Lentech becuaes I hear a howell from my transmission. It sounds almost like gear noise, infact... it sounds like its coming from the rear end. I had 4.10's put in a few months ago, and last week had it checked out and everything looks perfect they said. Its a very reputable place so I believe them. They said the alum. driveshaft I have will carry harmonics so I could sound like the rear end, when in fact is coming from inside the transmission. They noticed the howell got quieter when the car warmed up, and they said its probably in the transmission. A pump or some kind. I just want a little peace of mind that I'm making the right decision. Anyways... an upgrade is always a good idea!

------------------
Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

Fox Body · 10-10-2001, 08:34 PM

Thanks for the info Jeff. I'm definately gonna spend some time talking to those tech guys at Lentech to get the right one.

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX begins!!!

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

Jeff Chambers · 10-11-2001, 06:47 AM

My bet on the noise would be the gears. As you start adding the steeper gears, along with suspension mods, you're sacrificing some of the OEM noise, vibration and harshness...in essence you're sacrificing creature comfort for performance. The control arms with stiffer bushings will transfer more noise than the driveshaft, as a matter of fact, the damping provided by the AL driveshaft is greater than than provided by the OEM steel one. If you want the 'race car', you have to sacrifice a little on the NVH, especially the noise. The interior begins to act like a big acoustic guitar, just amplifying all the road/driveline noises. Take your back seat out and you'll really see what I mean.

Everything may 'look' fine in the rear but all's it takes for a little noise is too much/little bearing preload, gear runout, pinion depth, backlash, etc. Does the howl change from drive to coast? If so then I'd definitely be looking at the gears.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
Trophy Stock #3
11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

jz_mustang50 · 10-11-2001, 07:29 AM

Actually, I've heard the noise very faintly when the car was stopped. Yes... When the car has some light to medium acceleration, the noise is obvious, but when your costing or flooring the gas it goes away. Also, its very obvious in 1st and 2nd gear, but 3rd and 4th, its not as noticable. Even in reverse its there. It only happens at lower RPM's it seems like... The noise is never there about 2600 i'd say. Any clue? The place is called DTS that did the work. Drive Train Specialists(.com). The place seems really reputable is all... I believe the guy, but i'd like more opinions. Let me know what you think Jeff!!

------------------
Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

jz_mustang50 · 10-11-2001, 08:04 AM

One more thing to add to that... I've ridden if cars that have 4.10 gears and 4.56 and even one that had 5.13's and there wasn't any gear noise... well... not as loud as mine is. The shop that I had the work done, even hands out this paper that tells you how to break in your gears, and it even says if you hear gear noise, return to out shop right away... Any clue? It's gotta be the trasmission. I sometimes hear some super fast clicking when I first put the car in part, coming from what I believe is the torque converter, and a couple days ago when I went to take off at a stop sign, the rpm's went up to about 2500 rpms and just slammed into gear. Sounds like somethings going out... Also, my transmission must be one out of a lincoln lentech said, becuase my tailshaft is longer then the Mustang tailshafts. Thats why I had to get my driveshaft cut to fit (cut 2 inches off). And when I took it back to the gear shop like i was saying, they told me I had cut off 1 inch too many, and the driveshaft riding further back in the tranny can make a vibration (hence the noise). They said it's not being held in there straight enough or firm enough... Hmmm i'm beginning to hate my car

------------------
Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan

1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

88COBRA · 10-11-2001, 08:50 AM

Just a link for you: http://www.lentechautomatics.com/

------------------
Ian Sim
ian@stangpower.com
1988 Mustang GT "Canadian Cobra", stock, AOD, loaded
Tons of Products! Low prices! Message Board!Visit my site:
http://www.stangpower.com

LowDown · 10-12-2001, 03:08 AM

For those of you with Lentechs.... Is the on/off switch an easy install? Is everything already prewired so you can just attach them to the switch and battery? Are the wires long enough to reach around through the firewall?

10-07-2001, 09:18 PM	#1
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	Lentech AOD??? Hey everyone. I'm looking at a Lentech to replace my AOD. The AOD that is in the car now has the wrong tail shaft, so I was thinking about making it right again with everything correct, so the driveshaft will fit right again. I'm thinking this tranny will be backing a motor that will potentially running 11's or maybe high 10's within a year (likely 11's). What tranny from them should I get, and what will it cost? Do i want the upto 400HP or uptp 700 HP? Can i choose a stall speed I want??? Is the transbreak something I should get?? ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

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10-07-2001, 09:26 PM	#2
LfiveohX Addicted to the 5.0 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Oxnard, CA. USA Posts: 117	I love mine. Call lentech and ask the techline what they recommend. They told me for the daily driver mustang to go with the non-lock up converter because the locking converter is noisy and klunks when shifting into overdrive. I got the Street Terminator Plus which has the 10" converter and hardened shaft. They said it will have no problems with up to 600hp. The valve body also eliminates the AOD Shuffle. You need to wire a on/off switch for the Overdrive and L is now 1st, Drive is now 2nd, and Overdrive is 3rd and 1-3 with Overdrive depending if the switch is on or off. Pretty sweet. ------------------ 1993 Conv. LX 5.0, FRPP 302 longblock w/Y303 aluminum heads, E303 cam. 93 cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, Aeromotive AFPR, Underdrive pullies, Motorsport ceramic coated shorty headers, Bassani X-pipe w/converters, American Thunder Cat-back, Lentech AOD, Alum. driveshaft, 3.73's. Best E.T. 13.98 @ 99.78mph w/ 2.171 60' (Fontana Dragway 10/06/01)

10-08-2001, 12:18 PM	#3
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	LFiveOhX... What did that cost you? I tried to call today, but its Canadian Thanksgiving, so they are closed! OHHHHHHHH Anyone else have an idea? I visited the website, but I've heard people getting better prices then what the site said! Let me know! My aod is about to die! ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

10-08-2001, 01:31 PM	#4
LfiveohX Addicted to the 5.0 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Oxnard, CA. USA Posts: 117	It was $2395.00 delivered. Free shipping and no sales tax (Canada). You'll also need a good trans cooler if you don't already have one. You also need to buy a 12 volt on/off switch ($3.00 at auto parts store) and that's it. Good luck! ------------------ 1993 Conv. LX 5.0, FRPP 302 longblock w/Y303 aluminum heads, E303 cam. 93 cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, Aeromotive AFPR, Underdrive pullies, Motorsport ceramic coated shorty headers, Bassani X-pipe w/converters, American Thunder Cat-back, Lentech AOD, Alum. driveshaft, 3.73's. Best E.T. 13.98 @ 99.78mph w/ 2.171 60' (Fontana Dragway 10/06/01)

10-08-2001, 04:59 PM	#5
jchambers Guest Posts: n/a	The Lentech was the best thing we've ever done for our Mustang. After breaking four T5s, I had my fill of them. Our Pure Street Terminator Lock-up went the full season without ANY problems what-so-ever. I'm actually making less power than last year (tired motor) but was still able to go more than six-tenths quicker and 5mph faster than my average from last year. Give Len and the guys the chance and they'll hook you up with a bullet-proof trans. I just dropped the pan on mine last weekend and the fluid was absolutely perfect...and that's even launching off the transbrake. Well worth the cost IMHO. ------------------ Jeff Chambers T/S #3 11.462 Seconds/117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team

10-08-2001, 07:17 PM	#6
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Thank you for starting this thread. I have pretty much decided to exchange my C4 for a Lentech AOD transmission, but had some of the same exact question you asked. They have been pretty much answered here. I assume that I can get the same neck-braking shifting w/ a Lentech as with my C4, just with the added feature of overdrive? Is that how it works? ----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX* begins!!!* "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

10-08-2001, 07:34 PM	#7
jchambers Guest Posts: n/a	Mine will bark my 8.5 inch slicks on both shifts and the transbrake is lightning quick. The transbrake action helped me make more than a few rounds when I was actually out-ET'd. The lockup function is awesome. If I'm neck and neck with a stick car when I activate lock-up, I just pull away. Its like having another gear. When you've got Len, Chris or Ross on the phone, just ask them about how my car has improved this season. We improved week-by-week as we learned more about the transmission. They've been absolutely fantastic about helping us get the most out of the combination. IMHO, there's not a soul out there that knows more about the AOD than Len. ------------------ Jeff Chambers T/S #3 11.462 Seconds/117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team [This message has been edited by jchambers (edited 10-08-2001).]

10-09-2001, 04:53 PM	#8
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	I know the FRPP Al driveshaft for the C4 and the AOD is the same one. Does this apply for the Lentech AOD as well? If I buy the Al one now with my C4, would I be able to use it for the Lentech or would I have to get it cut or something? ----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX* begins!!!* "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

10-10-2001, 06:36 AM	#9
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	The FRPP AL driveshaft will work just fine. The Lentech AOD starts its life as a OEM AOD core before being reincarnated to a higher life form. Looks just the same, fits just the same, IS just the same with the exception of those magical Lentech innards! ------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team

10-10-2001, 07:58 AM	#10
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	Hey Jeff Chambers and others who know alot - I'm looking at Lentech becuaes I hear a howell from my transmission. It sounds almost like gear noise, infact... it sounds like its coming from the rear end. I had 4.10's put in a few months ago, and last week had it checked out and everything looks perfect they said. Its a very reputable place so I believe them. They said the alum. driveshaft I have will carry harmonics so I could sound like the rear end, when in fact is coming from inside the transmission. They noticed the howell got quieter when the car warmed up, and they said its probably in the transmission. A pump or some kind. I just want a little peace of mind that I'm making the right decision. Anyways... an upgrade is always a good idea! ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

10-10-2001, 08:34 PM	#11
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Thanks for the info Jeff. I'm definately gonna spend some time talking to those tech guys at Lentech to get the right one. ----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX* begins!!!* "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

10-11-2001, 06:47 AM	#12
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	My bet on the noise would be the gears. As you start adding the steeper gears, along with suspension mods, you're sacrificing some of the OEM noise, vibration and harshness...in essence you're sacrificing creature comfort for performance. The control arms with stiffer bushings will transfer more noise than the driveshaft, as a matter of fact, the damping provided by the AL driveshaft is greater than than provided by the OEM steel one. If you want the 'race car', you have to sacrifice a little on the NVH, especially the noise. The interior begins to act like a big acoustic guitar, just amplifying all the road/driveline noises. Take your back seat out and you'll really see what I mean. Everything may 'look' fine in the rear but all's it takes for a little noise is too much/little bearing preload, gear runout, pinion depth, backlash, etc. Does the howl change from drive to coast? If so then I'd definitely be looking at the gears. ------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team

10-11-2001, 07:29 AM	#13
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	Actually, I've heard the noise very faintly when the car was stopped. Yes... When the car has some light to medium acceleration, the noise is obvious, but when your costing or flooring the gas it goes away. Also, its very obvious in 1st and 2nd gear, but 3rd and 4th, its not as noticable. Even in reverse its there. It only happens at lower RPM's it seems like... The noise is never there about 2600 i'd say. Any clue? The place is called DTS that did the work. Drive Train Specialists(.com). The place seems really reputable is all... I believe the guy, but i'd like more opinions. Let me know what you think Jeff!! ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

10-11-2001, 08:04 AM	#14
jz_mustang50 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 50	One more thing to add to that... I've ridden if cars that have 4.10 gears and 4.56 and even one that had 5.13's and there wasn't any gear noise... well... not as loud as mine is. The shop that I had the work done, even hands out this paper that tells you how to break in your gears, and it even says if you hear gear noise, return to out shop right away... Any clue? It's gotta be the trasmission. I sometimes hear some super fast clicking when I first put the car in part, coming from what I believe is the torque converter, and a couple days ago when I went to take off at a stop sign, the rpm's went up to about 2500 rpms and just slammed into gear. Sounds like somethings going out... Also, my transmission must be one out of a lincoln lentech said, becuase my tailshaft is longer then the Mustang tailshafts. Thats why I had to get my driveshaft cut to fit (cut 2 inches off). And when I took it back to the gear shop like i was saying, they told me I had cut off 1 inch too many, and the driveshaft riding further back in the tranny can make a vibration (hence the noise). They said it's not being held in there straight enough or firm enough... Hmmm i'm beginning to hate my car ------------------ Joe Zemaitis, Grand Rapids Michigan 1991 Mustang GT. Mods to date: 4.10 rear end, new POSI, aluminum driveshaft, AOD w/ shift kit, 2 1/2 off road h-pipe, 2 1/2 flowmasters and 2 1/2 tail pipes. Electric fan, Removed air pump and egr tube. Hotchkins upper and lower control arms. New energy suspension rear busings. Hoosier Quick Time Pro 27x10.5x15 and bolt on subframes soon to be welded. Everything else is STOCK. Totally stock ENGINE. 14.29@96 with 130k miles.

10-11-2001, 08:50 AM	#15
88COBRA STANGPOWER.COM Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,045	Just a link for you: http://www.lentechautomatics.com/ ------------------ Ian Sim ian@stangpower.com 1988 Mustang GT "Canadian Cobra", stock, AOD, loaded Tons of Products! Low prices! Message Board!Visit my site: http://www.stangpower.com

10-12-2001, 03:08 AM	#16
LowDown Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Germany Posts: 91	For those of you with Lentechs.... Is the on/off switch an easy install? Is everything already prewired so you can just attach them to the switch and battery? Are the wires long enough to reach around through the firewall?