What TO DO............how you'd do it!

84LX89GT · 03-21-2002, 02:20 AM

2 parts......my rambling and the main CHALLANGE to you guys

The car that i bought is mismatched, he had a 70mm TB on a stock intake, 1.7 cobra roller rockers, stock exhaust and did sloppy work. I'm trying to balance out the intake and exhaust right now to match the gears and powerband i EVENTUALLY want and after I get those sorted our i'm going to build an engine (to get it machined correctly the way I want it and while i'm still planning it will take time and MONEY) and since i'm in school.....not much money = no new "balanced for the combo" engine. I had people dig into me about my combo without knowing the circumstances....i'm trying to shoot for the idle-5500 range and i'm gonna go forced induction but i can't buy all of it yet and i want to do the engine and supercharger last....i'll probably set up my suspension/chassis before even bothering to build a block

-Here's what i want from you guys-
Ok i've heard alot of people saying what people shouldn't do and for what reasons. Obviously when you throw something on that doesn't match airflow/timing with the rest of the engine it won't be of much benefit (usually hinderance). Here's the test for all you "experts" with your vast amounts of knowledge. Take a stock say......for example 1990 LX 5.0 hatch and with $2,000 doing all your own work WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE BEST USE OF THE MONEY! This ought to be interesting to hear.....

1BAD89 · 03-21-2002, 02:52 AM

Quote:

idle-5500 range

Plan #1 power
1. Trick Flow heads $999.00
2. Trick Flow Street Intake(idle-5500) $400.00
3. Trick Flow cam $150?
4. BBK Longtube headers chrome(it's cheaper than jet-hot) $240
5. Matching shortie H-pipe $120
6. Your choice aftermarket mufflers $91 for the pair

Well that is your $2000. All those parts will give you, your REAL power. The little stuff is alot easier to buy as you go along. Those things should get you a real solid start, and you'll be running mid to low 12's with a few more parts...Injectors.....etc. Those parts will give you a solid base for your new engine, and will keep you satisfied until the supercharger. Another thing you should consider is buying used parts, saves alot of money.

Plan #2 chassis & tune-up
1. BBK subframe connectors $90
2. BBK strut tower brace $110
3. Battery relocation kit $210
4. New cap and rotor $17.99
5. Spark plugs $15
6. Plug wires $40
7. New shocks(varries big time on what kind you go with)
8. Ahhh I could keep going on forever, but I'd go with plan #1.

WADS56 · 03-21-2002, 05:18 AM

GT-40p's (home porting)- 550.00
stock upper with systemax 1 lower (both home ported) -200.00?
cam- 150.00
Headers, and complete exhaust- 480.00
3.73-4.10 gears 150.00?
Total= 1530.00 give or take 200.00

After that I would save up for a kenney bell and frame connecters and have a massive amount of torq from idle to 6000rpm! for under 5000.00

chris91LX · 03-21-2002, 12:46 PM

As first mods, I'd do:

Assuming the stock Mustang is in good shape and nothing NEEDS to be replaced.

Exhaust
BBK long tubes and h - $390 (new)
2 1/2 " cat back - $250 (new)

Suspension
Upper and Lower C/A's - $250 (new)

Drivetrain
gear 3:73, 4:10 - $180 (new)
short throw shifter - $190 (new)

Induction
65 or 70mm tb - $250 (new)
76mm maf - $200 (new)

Fuel
Kirban FPR - $70 (new)

and a set of drag radials $230 (new)

scrape a few more bucks together and get a set of sub frame connectors for about $90

These are all "new" prices, as Jason (1Bad89) mentioned earlier, you can find many of these parts used on the internet for much better prices.

This setup will get you into the 13's easily and is setup for the power package Jason listed earlier. You throw heads, cam and intake onto this setup and your deep into the 12's for sure.

84LX89GT · 03-21-2002, 07:25 PM

These look good so far good answers with explanations, thanks for the replies (if anyone else wants to give their $.02 that would be fun to hear as well).

For my car,
Here's what i have so far on my car:
BBK Fenderwell intake, 73mm MAF, 70mm throttle body (came with car), Trick Flow street intake, 1.72:1 roller rockers, 3.55 gears, Hurst Shifter, subframe connectors and rear shock tower brace, 1 5/8" shorty headers w/2 1/2" offroad H and Flowtech Stinger cat-back, windage tray, Stock heads w/ported exhaust, MSD 6A controller (came with car), Blaster coil, super conductor wires, i've also removed most interior sound deadening and A/C system and bought an aluminum radiator.

For my car with a budget of say $1000 (probably be awhile before i buy more stuff) what would you recommend for my car. I will build up an engine in a while, but for the meantime i have budget constraints. I'd like to work a little on a suspension as well and this is a street/strip duty vehicle.

Thanks,

1BAD89 · 03-21-2002, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Jason (1Bad89)

Pretty close.... but I'm Justin.

chris91LX · 03-21-2002, 10:13 PM

Jason, Justin I knew it was one of those, thought i guessed right. You had to go and change your website too. Sorry Justin.

As far as your mods and $1000, aluminum heads come to mind.

PKRWUD · 03-21-2002, 11:44 PM

I thought it was Josh.

Take care,
-Chris

1BAD89 · 03-21-2002, 11:49 PM

LOL, nope that is Tireburner.

84LX89GT · 03-22-2002, 12:00 AM

I would do heads, but i just had my engine apart and also the engine has 120,000 hard miles.....If i put heads on it's going to be on a new bottom end as well. I'm setting my car up for handling the power i will have right now, i'm not so much looking for immediate horsepower. I was thinking, though, if i did want more power fast i'd get a nitrous kit, although the heads are pretty sh/tty.

fiveohpatrol · 03-22-2002, 12:46 AM

Quote:

LOL, nope that is Tireburner.

who the **** is that?

just kidding Frank

tireburner163 · 03-22-2002, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by fiveohpatrol
who the **** is that?

just kidding Frank

Frank?!?!?!??!?!?!?!??!?

It's ok tommy, I understand. Names are sometimes hard to remember

1BAD89 · 03-22-2002, 10:54 AM

Ok new plan....
1. Strut Tower brace $120 shipped from Jegs
2. Sub-frame Connectors $100 shipped from Jegs
3. Battery Relocation kit $230 shipped from Jegs

Those mod's will stiffen up your chassis quite a bit, and prepare your car for more power. And you'll have much better weight distribution. Oh by the way I have a strut tower brace for sale on my website. I'll ship it to you for $85. I also have a Moroso battery relocation kit I'll sell you for $180 shipped. The strut tower brace is used but in Great condition, and the battery relocation is brand new, it includes everything, cables, etc.... So $265 shipped for those two things, total savings......$350-265=$85.

Mr 5 0 · 03-22-2002, 12:17 PM

84LX89GT:

You seem to be on the right track. Right now you have most of what you need except the biggies; a fresh bottom end, new heads, the blower you mentioned and peripherals such as injectors. I don't see much point in looking to spend the grand on the engine in it's present condition. You might try to trade the 70mm TB for a 65mm but it's not critical.

Now, I would concentrate on the suspension including upgrading the rear control arms and adding aggressive shocks. You'll want good rubber, too, of course.

If anything is left, bank it toward the engine work and power adder you've planned.
Don't make the mistake of spending money on the car just to spend and 'do something'.

It's hard to just sit on (what I call) 'car cash' but when you've got most of the bases covered, it's time to just enjoy what you have and keep saving for what you want.

03-21-2002, 05:18 AM	#3
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	GT-40p's (home porting)- 550.00 stock upper with systemax 1 lower (both home ported) -200.00? cam- 150.00 Headers, and complete exhaust- 480.00 3.73-4.10 gears 150.00? Total= 1530.00 give or take 200.00 After that I would save up for a kenney bell and frame connecters and have a massive amount of torq from idle to 6000rpm! for under 5000.00 __________________ 79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49

03-21-2002, 12:46 PM	#4
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	As first mods, I'd do: Assuming the stock Mustang is in good shape and nothing NEEDS to be replaced. Exhaust BBK long tubes and h - $390 (new) 2 1/2 " cat back - $250 (new) Suspension Upper and Lower C/A's - $250 (new) Drivetrain gear 3:73, 4:10 - $180 (new) short throw shifter - $190 (new) Induction 65 or 70mm tb - $250 (new) 76mm maf - $200 (new) Fuel Kirban FPR - $70 (new) and a set of drag radials $230 (new) scrape a few more bucks together and get a set of sub frame connectors for about $90 These are all "new" prices, as Jason (1Bad89) mentioned earlier, you can find many of these parts used on the internet for much better prices. This setup will get you into the 13's easily and is setup for the power package Jason listed earlier. You throw heads, cam and intake onto this setup and your deep into the 12's for sure. Last edited by chris91LX; 03-21-2002 at 12:52 PM..

03-21-2002, 07:25 PM	#5
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	These look good so far good answers with explanations, thanks for the replies (if anyone else wants to give their $.02 that would be fun to hear as well). For my car, Here's what i have so far on my car: BBK Fenderwell intake, 73mm MAF, 70mm throttle body (came with car), Trick Flow street intake, 1.72:1 roller rockers, 3.55 gears, Hurst Shifter, subframe connectors and rear shock tower brace, 1 5/8" shorty headers w/2 1/2" offroad H and Flowtech Stinger cat-back, windage tray, Stock heads w/ported exhaust, MSD 6A controller (came with car), Blaster coil, super conductor wires, i've also removed most interior sound deadening and A/C system and bought an aluminum radiator. For my car with a budget of say $1000 (probably be awhile before i buy more stuff) what would you recommend for my car. I will build up an engine in a while, but for the meantime i have budget constraints. I'd like to work a little on a suspension as well and this is a street/strip duty vehicle. Thanks, __________________ 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)

03-21-2002, 11:44 PM	#8
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I thought it was Josh. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

03-22-2002, 12:00 AM	#10
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	I would do heads, but i just had my engine apart and also the engine has 120,000 hard miles.....If i put heads on it's going to be on a new bottom end as well. I'm setting my car up for handling the power i will have right now, i'm not so much looking for immediate horsepower. I was thinking, though, if i did want more power fast i'd get a nitrous kit, although the heads are pretty sh/tty. __________________ 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)

03-21-2002, 02:20 AM	#1
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	What TO DO............how you'd do it! 2 parts......my rambling and the main CHALLANGE to you guys The car that i bought is mismatched, he had a 70mm TB on a stock intake, 1.7 cobra roller rockers, stock exhaust and did sloppy work. I'm trying to balance out the intake and exhaust right now to match the gears and powerband i EVENTUALLY want and after I get those sorted our i'm going to build an engine (to get it machined correctly the way I want it and while i'm still planning it will take time and MONEY) and since i'm in school.....not much money = no new "balanced for the combo" engine. I had people dig into me about my combo without knowing the circumstances....i'm trying to shoot for the idle-5500 range and i'm gonna go forced induction but i can't buy all of it yet and i want to do the engine and supercharger last....i'll probably set up my suspension/chassis before even bothering to build a block -Here's what i want from you guys- Ok i've heard alot of people saying what people shouldn't do and for what reasons. Obviously when you throw something on that doesn't match airflow/timing with the rest of the engine it won't be of much benefit (usually hinderance). Here's the test for all you "experts" with your vast amounts of knowledge. Take a stock say......for example 1990 LX 5.0 hatch and with $2,000 doing all your own work WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE BEST USE OF THE MONEY! This ought to be interesting to hear..... __________________ 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)

03-21-2002, 10:13 PM	#7
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	Jason, Justin I knew it was one of those, thought i guessed right. You had to go and change your website too. Sorry Justin. As far as your mods and $1000, aluminum heads come to mind.

03-21-2002, 11:49 PM	#9
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	LOL, nope that is Tireburner.

03-22-2002, 10:54 AM	#13
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	Ok new plan.... 1. Strut Tower brace $120 shipped from Jegs 2. Sub-frame Connectors $100 shipped from Jegs 3. Battery Relocation kit $230 shipped from Jegs Those mod's will stiffen up your chassis quite a bit, and prepare your car for more power. And you'll have much better weight distribution. Oh by the way I have a strut tower brace for sale on my website. I'll ship it to you for $85. I also have a Moroso battery relocation kit I'll sell you for $180 shipped. The strut tower brace is used but in Great condition, and the battery relocation is brand new, it includes everything, cables, etc.... So $265 shipped for those two things, total savings......$350-265=$85.

03-22-2002, 12:17 PM	#14
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	$!,000 decision 84LX89GT: You seem to be on the right track. Right now you have most of what you need except the biggies; a fresh bottom end, new heads, the blower you mentioned and peripherals such as injectors. I don't see much point in looking to spend the grand on the engine in it's present condition. You might try to trade the 70mm TB for a 65mm but it's not critical. Now, I would concentrate on the suspension including upgrading the rear control arms and adding aggressive shocks. You'll want good rubber, too, of course. If anything is left, bank it toward the engine work and power adder you've planned. Don't make the mistake of spending money on the car just to spend and 'do something'. It's hard to just sit on (what I call) 'car cash' but when you've got most of the bases covered, it's time to just enjoy what you have and keep saving for what you want.