Loud knock after head rebuild

Hozer 88GTConv · 03-10-2004, 03:53 PM

Damn,
Just on start up, a loud knock was coming from the front of the motor. Presumably from the valvetrain.

I just took all of the roller rockers of again, checked the pushrods, and am now going to readjust the valves. I set them with the lower intake manifold off so I could see that the lifters were down indicating the valves were closed and I followed the order in the book.

Also, when I took the upper intake off I noticed a puddle of water around the number one runner. I am going to pull the plug and inspect it to make sure that it was just residual stuff.

Any other possibilities?

Thanks.

Again, it was a loud knocking, the car idles right were it should, but I only let it run twice for about 10-15 seconds. I put half a quart of oil over each valvetrain after the buildup.

420nitro · 03-10-2004, 07:33 PM

Sounds like you might have a collapsed lifter. After readjusting your valve train, prime the motor so the lifters pump up. If you can't get one or more lifters to pump up they are most likely no good. I have had this happen to me a couple of times. (It sounds like someone took a ball peen hammer and they're hitting the side of the block...right?)
If I remember correctley I believe Ford even said to leave it alone for about 15 min. and see if it will pump up. (I personally said the ****** with that and just replaced the lifters.)
In case you you don't know how to check for a collapsed lifter all you have to do is pull up on the Roller Rocker by the roller (which sits over the valve stem.) And see if the push rod will go down into the lifter. It will push the lifter down no matter if the valve is STARTING to open or close, so just pull up on all the rockers. If they don't move then your lifters are cool. Don't forget to do a compression check because you can very easily leave a valve stuck open with a bad lifter when adjusting them
Good Luck.

Hozer 88GTConv · 03-11-2004, 10:11 AM

Nitro,
That's exactly what it sounds like. I talked to a mechanic buddy and he said the same thing, that the lifters probably aren't pumped up.
I have a leak at the lower front corner passenger side head bolt/gasket.

So, I get to take everything apart again.

I replaced two head bolts on that side. I used pioneer head bolts because ARP's weren't available. I made sure the chamfered part was flush with the block but the two new bolts ended up looking about 1/8 shorter than the original ARP's that were still in the block.
I know now that I should have changed them all. Hard lesson to learn. I didn't think that it would make a difference because they would all be torqued in 3 stages so it would work out.

Always, always, if you replace one, replace all of the head bolts.

Thanks for the collapsed lifter skinny, nitro. I'll check that after I have the pleasure of taking my heads off again.

420nitro · 03-11-2004, 02:02 PM

Yea,... well its bit me in the *** as well too. I now replace the lifters and bolts/studs as a whole as well. I know that its not necessary to replace lifters, and/or bolts/studs as a whole but it only takes once for it to bite you!

Cool, hope everything works out for ya.

Hozer 88GTConv · 03-11-2004, 04:06 PM

I just got a priming shaft and plan to run it for 15 minutes to pre-load the lifters prior to adjustment.

Also, I just put the thread locker that came with the head bolts.
Apparently, it is common for head bolts to leak if you don't put thread SEALER on them. I just put the stuff that the bolts came with which is crap.

Don't use anything but ARP. Ever.

PWR_RYD93 · 03-11-2004, 04:54 PM

You only need sealer on the lower bolts.

If you plan on priming the oil pump for 15 minutes.... you're going to go through quite a few electric drills!

stang_racer20 · 03-11-2004, 11:21 PM

Hey Hozer, where did you buy your primer tool and how much?. I guess I have'nt really looked around yet, but I'm looking at getting one real soon. Is it worth it to get say a MAC or a Snap-On, or just get one at Autozone?

Hozer 88GTConv · 03-12-2004, 08:40 AM

I got it from Racer Walsh here in Jacksonville.
It's made by ARP and it is $30. I plan on keeping this car until I die or we don't use fossil fuels so I didn't sweat the $30 bucks.

Let me know if you want a part number.

DblAdigger · 03-12-2004, 11:17 PM

Just remember, the shaft turns CCW.

Hozer 88GTConv · 03-12-2004, 11:21 PM

quote "If you plan on priming the oil pump for 15 minutes.... you're going to go through quite a few electric drills!"...

That's what the air compressor and wrench are for...and my wife thought I got these things for the hell of it!

03-10-2004, 03:53 PM	#1
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Loud knock after head rebuild Damn, Just on start up, a loud knock was coming from the front of the motor. Presumably from the valvetrain. I just took all of the roller rockers of again, checked the pushrods, and am now going to readjust the valves. I set them with the lower intake manifold off so I could see that the lifters were down indicating the valves were closed and I followed the order in the book. Also, when I took the upper intake off I noticed a puddle of water around the number one runner. I am going to pull the plug and inspect it to make sure that it was just residual stuff. Any other possibilities? Thanks. Again, it was a loud knocking, the car idles right were it should, but I only let it run twice for about 10-15 seconds. I put half a quart of oil over each valvetrain after the buildup. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

03-11-2004, 10:11 AM	#3
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	I want to ball peen my head. Nitro, That's exactly what it sounds like. I talked to a mechanic buddy and he said the same thing, that the lifters probably aren't pumped up. I have a leak at the lower front corner passenger side head bolt/gasket. So, I get to take everything apart again. I replaced two head bolts on that side. I used pioneer head bolts because ARP's weren't available. I made sure the chamfered part was flush with the block but the two new bolts ended up looking about 1/8 shorter than the original ARP's that were still in the block. I know now that I should have changed them all. Hard lesson to learn. I didn't think that it would make a difference because they would all be torqued in 3 stages so it would work out. Always, always, if you replace one, replace all of the head bolts. Thanks for the collapsed lifter skinny, nitro. I'll check that after I have the pleasure of taking my heads off again. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

03-11-2004, 04:06 PM	#5
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Priming tool I just got a priming shaft and plan to run it for 15 minutes to pre-load the lifters prior to adjustment. Also, I just put the thread locker that came with the head bolts. Apparently, it is common for head bolts to leak if you don't put thread SEALER on them. I just put the stuff that the bolts came with which is crap. Don't use anything but ARP. Ever. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

03-11-2004, 04:54 PM	#6
PWR_RYD93 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: IL Posts: 1,155	You only need sealer on the lower bolts. If you plan on priming the oil pump for 15 minutes.... you're going to go through quite a few electric drills! __________________ Craig Supercharged 93 GT "I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol!" Then I went to the doctor.... whoa 312! Hello Lipitor

03-11-2004, 11:21 PM	#7
stang_racer20 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 348	Hey Hozer, where did you buy your primer tool and how much?. I guess I have'nt really looked around yet, but I'm looking at getting one real soon. Is it worth it to get say a MAC or a Snap-On, or just get one at Autozone? __________________ 92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.

03-10-2004, 07:33 PM	#2
420nitro Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Rockford Posts: 596	Sounds like you might have a collapsed lifter. After readjusting your valve train, prime the motor so the lifters pump up. If you can't get one or more lifters to pump up they are most likely no good. I have had this happen to me a couple of times. (It sounds like someone took a ball peen hammer and they're hitting the side of the block...right?) If I remember correctley I believe Ford even said to leave it alone for about 15 min. and see if it will pump up. (I personally said the ****** with that and just replaced the lifters.) In case you you don't know how to check for a collapsed lifter all you have to do is pull up on the Roller Rocker by the roller (which sits over the valve stem.) And see if the push rod will go down into the lifter. It will push the lifter down no matter if the valve is STARTING to open or close, so just pull up on all the rockers. If they don't move then your lifters are cool. Don't forget to do a compression check because you can very easily leave a valve stuck open with a bad lifter when adjusting them Good Luck.

03-11-2004, 02:02 PM	#4
420nitro Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Rockford Posts: 596	Yea,... well its bit me in the *** as well too. I now replace the lifters and bolts/studs as a whole as well. I know that its not necessary to replace lifters, and/or bolts/studs as a whole but it only takes once for it to bite you! Cool, hope everything works out for ya.

03-12-2004, 08:40 AM	#8
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Priming tool I got it from Racer Walsh here in Jacksonville. It's made by ARP and it is $30. I plan on keeping this car until I die or we don't use fossil fuels so I didn't sweat the $30 bucks. Let me know if you want a part number. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

03-12-2004, 11:17 PM	#9
DblAdigger Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: So Cal. Posts: 14	Priming the system. Just remember, the shaft turns CCW. __________________ Some people can break a cannon ball, in a sandbox, with their bare hands.

03-12-2004, 11:21 PM	#10
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	air tools... quote "If you plan on priming the oil pump for 15 minutes.... you're going to go through quite a few electric drills!"... That's what the air compressor and wrench are for...and my wife thought I got these things for the hell of it! __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

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