Unit 5302,
That's complete BS. I used to listen to comments like this and it held me up as far as mods went. I could never make up my mind and didn't want to make any bad decisions. Well I did the mods anyway and found all of them made a significant difference. My longtubes WITH H pipe only cost 360 bucks delivered to my door. I have the BBK's. That's not expensive at all. In fact I paid 390 for my BBK shorties and Mac Pro Chamber. Once I get my longtubes installed I will post new track times and will dyno it. Everyone I've talked to that HAS longtubes, either stock or modified have seen improved results. Look at all the guys that run stock motored 12's. They all run longtubes with your usual mix of parts with steep gears and slicks. The ones who have dynoed their cars usually pull off 240 RWHP and 300 RWTQ out of a STOCK motor. A stock 5.0 only makes around 190-200 RWHP factory stock, so that's nearly 50 RWHP at peak. Also about losing torque that's BS too. I didn't notice ANY loss in power what's so ever. Besides even if you did lose some low end power, you're talking about power at less than 3,000 RPM's. When you race you're never at less than 3,000. Most full exhaust sytems make around 20 RWHP at peak on stock 5.0's and at 5500 RPM's it makes about 30+ more than stock. This stuff has been proven at the track and dyno for years. If they don't work then why do people have success running them?
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3.55 gears, short shifter, BBK headers, Mac Pro Chamber, Mac Cat Back, C&L mass air, Nitto DR's, Nitrous Works nitrous 50-175
Best ET's:
14.14 @ 98 NA
13.46 @ 104 80 shot
with a worn traction lok and 60's in the 2.12-2.2 range.
Up next: Longtubes, short belt and a new differential
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