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Old 10-28-2002, 11:09 PM   #1
82 GT
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Default I think I just lost my heater core!!

For those of you who remember, last week I replaced the two heater hoses on my '88 GT. I noticed that the one tube was pretty loose and didn't notice any leaks when I was finished.
Tonight my windows fogged up and I smelled antifreeze but I still had good heat.
Am I screwed?
I've heard that the entire dash and center console must be removed and even the steeering column must be dropped.
I read this in my Haynes manual tonight.
It appears that the dash and console removal is really the harderst part. Is that true?
How long will it take an average person to do this on a car with
A/C?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.
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Old 10-28-2002, 11:26 PM   #2
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Thumbs down Dam

boy does that suck , it sounds like thats it with the fog windows and all that .let me do some research ,also do a search on all the mustang forums that you go to . there are a lot of step by step sites out there ,your going to use those hoses again so ,be carefull with them , the job can be done in a weekend ,hope you have small hands , your going to get cut up ! it's a fact ,dash board alone is very sharp . for now i would reroute the conections coming off the back of the motor .this can be done with you buying some hose and just make a " U " in the back .That way your bypassing the heater hose ,and you won't do anymore damage to the carpet and dash and you no . do that first and i'll pm you if i get some good directions for you . At least you'll still be able to drive the stang
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Old 10-29-2002, 12:31 AM   #3
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8 to 9 hours of steady work. I concur with the bloodletting, get lots of bandaids.
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet.
Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.
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Old 10-29-2002, 12:32 AM   #4
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Oh yeah. . .it's a lot like picking cotton. Anyone who's ever done it knows what I mean. Lots of bandaids
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet.
Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.
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Old 10-29-2002, 10:24 AM   #5
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Thanks Moc, that would be greatly appreciated if you could find some step by step instructions for me. I'' look also.
Maybe a website could be found with pictures so I will be able to tell I'm going in the right direction.
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.
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Old 10-29-2002, 10:27 AM   #6
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Does the entire dash have to come out?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.
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Old 10-29-2002, 10:43 AM   #7
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You will have to remove the entire center console assembly but the entire dash does not have to be taken out of the car, just moved back about a foot or so from the firewall. Just enough room to get your hands in there and get the core out. I had a shop do mine for $450 and it started leaking again 6 months later. I redid the job myself and took about a whole day but it was worth it. Much cheaper than having a shop do it. Haven't had any problems since.
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T-5, stock 2.73's uugh, MAC cold air, Pro-M Bullet 75mm, BBK 1 5/8 jet-hot unequal shorties, BBK h-pipe w/ cats, Flowmaster 2 chambers, Pro 5.0 short throw, KYB shocks and struts

In the garage waiting to be put on:
Screamin Demon coil, Dyna Mod TFI module, underdrive pulleys

Last edited by 1991GT; 10-29-2002 at 11:34 AM..
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Old 10-29-2002, 10:59 AM   #8
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Cool your full

Yo dude ,you need to go into your PM mailbox and empty it so i can send you some info
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Old 10-29-2002, 11:02 AM   #9
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Thumbs up Just in case

Here are some good ones
http://users2.ev1.net/~calley/Sally/heater_core/

http://pw1.netcom.com/~skent/mustang...ore/hcore.html
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