maf sensor, whats the name of the tool

Reipen · 05-23-2002, 07:20 PM

that you use to remove the bolts from the maf sensor

thanks in advance.

David.

Mike Souslin · 05-23-2002, 09:01 PM

Mine are Torx screws. Is that the answer you are looking for?

Reipen · 05-23-2002, 09:03 PM

gracias.

I cant get my torx skrews to fit. There is a small lil metal dot i guess in the middle of the skrew that is preventing me from gripping it.

srv1 · 05-23-2002, 10:02 PM

those are "tamper proof" torx style bits. i think Craftsman has them.

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 12:06 AM

I dont think they are torx. They have a star shape, with a dot in the middle. Pro-m uses them, and i need to get mine off also. I think they are called "star drivers" and I saw an electrical supply company on-line that sold them once, but cant find it any more. If you find out, let me know.

gtsr515 · 05-24-2002, 03:08 PM

For the record, they are called "tamper proof torx screws", you need a "tamper proof torx bit" a TP15 I think.

The bit will have a hole machined in the middle. replace them with a non tamper style screw.

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 04:35 PM

I think mines a T20. where can you get the "tamper proof bit"? Im thinking to drill out the stud in the middle of the screw, but its small and would be hard to drill down without the drill running everywhere.

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 04:44 PM

I did a search. the bits are available here for like $1.60 a piece.

http://www.wihatools.com/701serie.htm

gtsr515 · 05-24-2002, 04:53 PM

Dont you dare try drilling them out!!!!!!!!!, you can get that bit just about anywhere, Discount Auto, AUTOSTONED, Trak, Sears, Joe Bob's hillbilly auto.

If you "just have to get them off now!", use a small needle nose vise grip and twist them off on the outside, just be carefull you dont crack the Hitachi hot wire sensor, as you surely would drilling them out! Come on man! use your head! whats your hurry? Got a dyno date? relax.

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 05:03 PM

BETTER YET, THIS PLACE has a whole set for $19.80

I just placed an order.

http://www.amiparts.com/catalog/tools.htm

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 05:07 PM

I wasnt going to drill the entire screw out, I was only going to drill the stud in the center of it, thus allowing the use of a normal torx driver. Understand? Use your head.

gtsr515 · 05-24-2002, 09:21 PM

Oh! My bad! Let me know how it goes drilling out only the stud in the middle. Also let me know how your going to do this with out damaging the rest of the screw, or without heating up the plastic....wait, I found my old MAF instructions....it say's when removing the hot wire sensor, instead of buying the right tool, take a drill bit and drill out the stud in the middle of the screw, overheat and melt the holes around it, that way when you bolt it back down, it will have some play to move around with over time with vibration, actually retuning the car better, it lubricates the computer and then the computer sends a signal to all the sensors, lubricating them too. Good luck.

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 10:48 PM

damaging the rest of the screw? heating up the plastic? I dont think so.

Yes, drilling out screws without damaging the component takes some mechanical ability....I guess more than you possess? Do yourself a favor and leave the jobs that might require more than a scewdriver to a professional

later

gtsr515 · 05-24-2002, 11:05 PM

Sorry I helped you in the proper way to remove the sensor, I guess drills are replacing tools now days. Butcher!

srv1 · 05-24-2002, 11:20 PM

MANY TIMES when i work with Ford Mass air flow sensor, i clean them. i didnt drill them or heat anything. if you cant get your hands on a tamper proof torx bit, then use a small pair of vise grips and grip the head of the screw. u can put it back with the vise grips and nothing gets "butchered"! i have done this countless times without doing ANY damage!

Mach 1 · 05-24-2002, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gtsr515
Sorry I helped you in the proper way to remove the sensor, I guess drills are replacing tools now days. Butcher!

lmao...idiot. You helped me? Now thats funny. You schooled me in the proper use of a screwdriver....lol...

Ive been a professional mechanic for around 15 years with lots of experience in machine work, sheetmetal, hydraulics, electronics, environmental systems, jet engines, avionics, etc.... and I know people that make a living removing screws that cant be removed with a screwdriver for a variety of reasons. I could drill those MAF screw out in about 4 minutes without damaging anything. Its called being a professional. Its not the preferred way to do it, but if one doesnt have the right tool and had to get them out, it wouldnt be a problem. Like I said earlier, if you have a stripped screw, take it to somebody who has a clue, because you apparantly are a butcher......come back when you get a clue

srv1 · 05-25-2002, 12:51 AM

sorry Mach, i got confused of what you were saying. but to everyone else, you can do it my way or Mach's way or just buy the DAMN BIT, cheapskates

Mach 1 · 05-25-2002, 08:26 AM

I looked in a lot of stores, including sears, and nobody has the bits here. I live in a crappy small town, but not that small. It seems like my local sears doesnt carry a lot of the specialty stuff that other sears stores have. Anyway, you can order them on line if you cant find them locally

shadowblue89 · 05-25-2002, 03:08 PM

When I used to work for a local Dodge dealer their stupid ignition switches used the same style screw. We would use a punch and knock out the center peice so you can use a regular bit to remove them. It does not take much force to knock them out either.
In this case though I am not sure if it will break the HOT WIRE or not. You can try it at your own risk.

05-23-2002, 07:20 PM	#1
Reipen Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 37	maf sensor, whats the name of the tool that you use to remove the bolts from the maf sensor thanks in advance. David.

05-23-2002, 09:01 PM	#2
Mike Souslin Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Grove City Ohio Posts: 226	Mine are Torx screws. Is that the answer you are looking for? __________________ 91 Coupe with fresh rebuild. Running Stage 2 Avenger heads (51cc chambers), Stage 2 cam (.549, .566)1.72 Crane Gold Race rockers, Port matched GT-40 upper & lower, 75mm Bullet MAF, 65mm Accufab TB, MSD 6AL, Long Tubes through off road and 2 chamber flowbastards. Stock T-5, 3.73 gears, Center Line Convo-Pros with skinnies up front. My baby is now bottle fed!!! Best time on the motor was 12.92 at 109.57. UPDATE - Getting Ready to install: Tremec 3550, Blowproof Bellhousing, Strange Shocks/Struts, Moroso Springs, Upper/Lower control Arms, 31 spline axles and new differential. After this..... 347 heart transplant and Rollcage.

05-23-2002, 10:02 PM	#4
srv1 Get down..... Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Room 103 Posts: 2,095	those are "tamper proof" torx style bits. i think Craftsman has them. __________________ Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------

05-24-2002, 12:06 AM	#5
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I dont think they are torx. They have a star shape, with a dot in the middle. Pro-m uses them, and i need to get mine off also. I think they are called "star drivers" and I saw an electrical supply company on-line that sold them once, but cant find it any more. If you find out, let me know. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-24-2002, 03:08 PM	#6
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	For the record, they are called "tamper proof torx screws", you need a "tamper proof torx bit" a TP15 I think. The bit will have a hole machined in the middle. replace them with a non tamper style screw. __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

05-23-2002, 09:03 PM	#3
Reipen Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 37	gracias. I cant get my torx skrews to fit. There is a small lil metal dot i guess in the middle of the skrew that is preventing me from gripping it.

05-24-2002, 04:35 PM	#7
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I think mines a T20. where can you get the "tamper proof bit"? Im thinking to drill out the stud in the middle of the screw, but its small and would be hard to drill down without the drill running everywhere. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-24-2002, 04:44 PM	#8
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I did a search. the bits are available here for like $1.60 a piece. http://www.wihatools.com/701serie.htm __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-24-2002, 04:53 PM	#9
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Dont you dare try drilling them out!!!!!!!!!, you can get that bit just about anywhere, Discount Auto, AUTOSTONED, Trak, Sears, Joe Bob's hillbilly auto. If you "just have to get them off now!", use a small needle nose vise grip and twist them off on the outside, just be carefull you dont crack the Hitachi hot wire sensor, as you surely would drilling them out! Come on man! use your head! whats your hurry? Got a dyno date? relax. __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

05-24-2002, 05:03 PM	#10
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	BETTER YET, THIS PLACE has a whole set for $19.80 I just placed an order. http://www.amiparts.com/catalog/tools.htm __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-24-2002, 05:07 PM	#11
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I wasnt going to drill the entire screw out, I was only going to drill the stud in the center of it, thus allowing the use of a normal torx driver. Understand? Use your head. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-24-2002, 09:21 PM	#12
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Oh! My bad! Let me know how it goes drilling out only the stud in the middle. Also let me know how your going to do this with out damaging the rest of the screw, or without heating up the plastic....wait, I found my old MAF instructions....it say's when removing the hot wire sensor, instead of buying the right tool, take a drill bit and drill out the stud in the middle of the screw, overheat and melt the holes around it, that way when you bolt it back down, it will have some play to move around with over time with vibration, actually retuning the car better, it lubricates the computer and then the computer sends a signal to all the sensors, lubricating them too. Good luck. __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

05-24-2002, 10:48 PM	#13
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	damaging the rest of the screw? heating up the plastic? I dont think so. Yes, drilling out screws without damaging the component takes some mechanical ability....I guess more than you possess? Do yourself a favor and leave the jobs that might require more than a scewdriver to a professional later __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-24-2002, 11:05 PM	#14
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Sorry I helped you in the proper way to remove the sensor, I guess drills are replacing tools now days. Butcher! __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

05-24-2002, 11:20 PM	#15
srv1 Get down..... Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Room 103 Posts: 2,095	MANY TIMES when i work with Ford Mass air flow sensor, i clean them. i didnt drill them or heat anything. if you cant get your hands on a tamper proof torx bit, then use a small pair of vise grips and grip the head of the screw. u can put it back with the vise grips and nothing gets "butchered"! i have done this countless times without doing ANY damage! __________________ Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------

05-25-2002, 12:51 AM	#17
srv1 Get down..... Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Room 103 Posts: 2,095	sorry Mach, i got confused of what you were saying. but to everyone else, you can do it my way or Mach's way or just buy the DAMN BIT, cheapskates __________________ Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------

05-25-2002, 08:26 AM	#18
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I looked in a lot of stores, including sears, and nobody has the bits here. I live in a crappy small town, but not that small. It seems like my local sears doesnt carry a lot of the specialty stuff that other sears stores have. Anyway, you can order them on line if you cant find them locally __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

05-25-2002, 03:08 PM	#19
shadowblue89 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 286	When I used to work for a local Dodge dealer their stupid ignition switches used the same style screw. We would use a punch and knock out the center peice so you can use a regular bit to remove them. It does not take much force to knock them out either. In this case though I am not sure if it will break the HOT WIRE or not. You can try it at your own risk. __________________ Charlie 89 GT 5spd

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