MM subfram connectors

dinomite · 03-28-2001, 07:08 PM

Maximum Motorsports sells 2 kinds of subframes, the normal ones that everyone makes, and then some 'full length' ones (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/sfc.html). How much better are the full lengths, assuming they are better? They also sell powdercoated and bare steel, one should get the bare stell as you are gonna weld it anyway, correct?

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ABit KT7, T-Bird 900@1100, PAL6035-2, 256M pc133, 20gb@7200rpm, MP7040A, PC-DVD 6x, Viper V770, SB Live

Mr 5 0 · 03-28-2001, 09:20 PM

Your addy for MM didn't work but I would advise getting the full length subframe connectors (no question about it) and get the powder coating because the small section you weld you then spray with sealer/paint to protect it and the other 90% of the piece is protected by the powder coating.

dinomite · 03-28-2001, 10:27 PM

thanks

Moxie · 03-29-2001, 12:53 PM

I run the MM full-length subs. They're about 20% stiffer than the standard length. If you plan on doing any twisty-turny racing, you need them. On a street car, the standards are ok. Also, The '94-up SN-95 chassis is somewhat stiffer than the Fox platform. So they don't need as much help, at least on a street car.

The full-length subs reach from the firewall to the rear torque boxes. They also come with gussets, so welding takes more time than the standards. If you're paying someone else to do the welding, budget for the extra labor.

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Moxie Racing

The Nitrous Oxide Information Site

TEXSN95 · 03-29-2001, 10:33 PM

Full length all the way. Might as well do it right the first time, than to wish later on that you'd gotten them in the first place.

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Clint L.
White 95 Cobra #3637
R lookalike with lots of goodies

03-28-2001, 07:08 PM	#1
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	MM subfram connectors Maximum Motorsports sells 2 kinds of subframes, the normal ones that everyone makes, and then some 'full length' ones (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/sfc.html). How much better are the full lengths, assuming they are better? They also sell powdercoated and bare steel, one should get the bare stell as you are gonna weld it anyway, correct? ------------------ ABit KT7, T-Bird 900@1100, PAL6035-2, 256M pc133, 20gb@7200rpm, MP7040A, PC-DVD 6x, Viper V770, SB Live

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03-28-2001, 09:20 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Your addy for MM didn't work but I would advise getting the full length subframe connectors (no question about it) and get the powder coating because the small section you weld you then spray with sealer/paint to protect it and the other 90% of the piece is protected by the powder coating.

03-28-2001, 10:27 PM	#3
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	thanks

03-29-2001, 12:53 PM	#4
Moxie Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Plymouth, MI Posts: 254	I run the MM full-length subs. They're about 20% stiffer than the standard length. If you plan on doing any twisty-turny racing, you need them. On a street car, the standards are ok. Also, The '94-up SN-95 chassis is somewhat stiffer than the Fox platform. So they don't need as much help, at least on a street car. The full-length subs reach from the firewall to the rear torque boxes. They also come with gussets, so welding takes more time than the standards. If you're paying someone else to do the welding, budget for the extra labor. ------------------ Moxie Racing The Nitrous Oxide Information Site

03-29-2001, 10:33 PM	#5
TEXSN95 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: college station, tx Posts: 143	Full length all the way. Might as well do it right the first time, than to wish later on that you'd gotten them in the first place. ------------------ Clint L. White 95 Cobra #3637 R lookalike with lots of goodies