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Old 03-20-2002, 07:31 PM   #1
jtl
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Question Motorsport C springs

I need some opinions on the motorsport C springs. How much do they really lower the car? Thanks
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Old 03-21-2002, 02:36 PM   #2
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I can't remember what they list for lowered distance, but be ready for varied results.
My C springs dropped the front as much as 1.5". The rear didn't hardly drop at all. Probably because the lighter rear weight of the LX compared to the GT that they were most likely designed for.
The instructions will tell you that after a couple hundred miles you can cut the coils to achieve desired height. I cut about 1.5 coils off the rear springs to get the back end down. Didn't touch the fronts.

Ride is much stiffer than stock, made even harsher by my poly bushings, but cornering is very flat.

Dan
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:27 PM   #3
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I think they list the C springs to drop the front by 7/8" and the rear by 1/2". I have Kenny brown Super Sports (which are basically FMS C springs I have heard) and they lowered the front by about 1 1/2"! I would definantly not want to be any lower in the front... The rear did not really change much on mine either, so it looked as though the rear end was jacked up compared to the front! I had to do something, so I installed the Kenny Brown Track Kit brackets which lowered where the control arms mount to the axle by about an inch. That gave the car a level stance. (You can also make similar brackets in the Mustang Performance Handbook 2 - it gives you all the specs to make your own if you want...)
The ride is firm. Almost uncomfortable at times...
My brother installed H&R race springs (I think they are rated at 750lbs) and Bilstien dampers from Maximum Motorsports. Man, I am really impressed that the ride is so much better even with a stiffer front spring. If I had to do it all over, that is what I would go with...
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Old 03-21-2002, 07:17 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replys, very helpful.
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Old 03-22-2002, 02:23 PM   #5
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If you go with the c-springs, make sure whoever installs them puts the old rubber spacer back on the front. It fits around the bottom of the coil and rests in between the front control arms and the springs. The mechanic who put mine in, couldn't get it back on, since it was so deteriorated, and the car was lowered even more(probably about 2-inches in front). The rear wasn't lowered as much as people already stated(probably a half inch), but I left mine alone without cutting the coils because I have to haul a bunch of my stuff when I come home from school in the summer and I didn't want the car to bottom out if I cut too much. It gives it a pretty good stance though. A little higher in back, but I like it. I do plan on cutting them when I am out of school and my Mustang no longer has to serve as a u-haul twice a year.

They do offer very flat handling, and even with the front rubber spacers out, there isn't any excess noise or vibration. The springs really come to life when you are going through the twisties anywhere from 30 MPH up to well lets just say they are very stable at high speeds.
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Old 03-22-2002, 02:33 PM   #6
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Don't cut your springs!!!! If you want shorter springs, buy some that lower more!! If you decide to go cutting, cut on the stock springs, because I don't think there is much of a difference between stock springs and the rear springs of FMS-Cs (at least there isn't on my Kenny Browns!)
Just my .02
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Old 03-22-2002, 03:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by autoX
Don't cut your springs!!!! If you want shorter springs, buy some that lower more!! If you decide to go cutting, cut on the stock springs, because I don't think there is much of a difference between stock springs and the rear springs of FMS-Cs (at least there isn't on my Kenny Browns!)
Just my .02
I'm talking about cutting them the half a coil (or something along those lines) that the instructions tell you is an option if you want them even lower. My stock springs were thrown out a long time ago, because they were rusting apart. One of the front coils actually cracked and broke, which broke the rod that connects the front anti-sway bar with the control arms, so I had to replace that too. That was okay, because the stock rubber bushings were well worn anyway. I got the new urethane bushings and bolts from PST for around $20.

All this happened about a week before I was to go back to school my Sophomore year of college. So I had to get the springs sent in priority from summit and have a mechanic do it, because I just didn't have the time. I'm not in a hurry to go cut them now, because like I said, I have to use the car to haul stuff, so I have plenty of time to change my mind.
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Old 03-22-2002, 03:05 PM   #8
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I strongly recommend that you do not cut or heat the springs. how do you ensure that you cut off the exact same amount on each spring? and when you heat them, their strength can be changed, they can get weaker, making one corner drop alot more than the rest. just spend the 140 bucks and get four of the correct springs.
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Old 03-22-2002, 03:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by mean81GT
I strongly recommend that you do not cut or heat the springs. how do you ensure that you cut off the exact same amount on each spring? and when you heat them, their strength can be changed, they can get weaker, making one corner drop alot more than the rest. just spend the 140 bucks and get four of the correct springs.
They are four of the correct springs from Ford Motorsport. The C-springs have 650 lbs/in rate in the front and I think 200-300 lbs/in variable rate in the rear. It says in the instructions from Ford that if you want the rear end lower, measure off half a coil, and cut them. I don't plan on using a torch to do it and like I said I might not even cut them. I don't graduate until Spring of 03' anyway, so I am not even thinking about it until after that.
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Pulleys, H-pipe, MAC Pro-Dumps,
FMS c-springs, and KYBs, A/c delete,
190 LPH fuel pump, 3-row radiator,
Maximum Motorsports full length subframes

2002 Oldsmobile Bravada(wife's car)
2005 Ford Taurus SEL (company ride)

GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS !!!!
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