Moving Battery to trunk

[Gearhead999]

I'm ready to install the 347 stroker I've been building and because I used the serpentine belt setup from a 93 5.0 HO Tbird the alternator will not clear the battery.

So the battery will have to go in the trunk.

Let me hear the pitfalls and all the horror stories with problems. I've never been real keen on putting a battery in the trunk, because of the length of the positive cable run. But, lots of cars are coming from the factory with them installed there.

Besides a hefty positive cable, which I'm running inside along the door sill plate. Running good grounds to the body and from the body to the engine. What else??

I hate to do this, but don't see any other way around it.

I'm open for suggestions, etc.

[Rev]

Gearhead, it's really pretty easy. First, use a high quality battery box (mine is a plastic Moroso from Summit, $100). It's a vented box with a 1/2" tube to the outside for ventilation. I used a #2 positive cable running through the door sill area from the trunk area to the passenger side of the engine compartment. Since I ran this cable through the interior area, I put it through a heater hose for additional insulation in the interior/doorsill area.

Now for the most important part. Run another #2 cable from the trunk battery neg. ground termial of the battery straight to the engine compartment in the driver side door sill area and along the fire wall straight to the bolt that holds the starter motor. This will assure you of full voltage when cranking. You can't rely on a chassis ground for good cranking performance.

Can't think of much more to say. These are the main points that I remember from putting my battery in the trunk several years ago.

Rev

[Gearhead999]

Thanks for all the imput. I went out today a purchased a Taylor relocation kit. It has an aluminum box and one long positive cable and a short negative.

I plan on doing as Rev said with the long negative too. I can get the cable up the street from my shop at a surplus electrical/electronic store by the foot. I will run two negatives. One to the engine block/starter [long cable] and one to the frame.

I like the box because it has a vent too. Not like a boat battery box.

[Rev]

The boat battery boxes won't pass tech. inspection at a NHRA drag strip for trunk mounted batteries. Has to be a sealed and ventillated box either metal or heavy plastic and with through bolts anchoring to the frame or floor (no "J" hold down bolts). They also want you to have an external battery cut off switch accessable outside the trunk to turn off all juice in case of an accident. Mine is actually inside the trunk as I couldn't bring myself to cut a big hole in the car to mount the switch. So far they have still let me run anyway, but they do sometimes admonish me.

Rev

[Dark_5.0]

I had my battery in the trunk and hated it!!!!!

I kept on having starting issues even with a 130 amp alternator and an optima battery.

I quickly moved it back to the front.

[Rev]

Originally Posted by Dark_5.0

I had my battery in the trunk and hated it!!!!!

I kept on having starting issues even with a 130 amp alternator and an optima battery.

I quickly moved it back to the front.

You really do have to have that long ground cable (#2 guage) that goes from the battery to the starter motor. I did have to learn that the hard way.

Rev