my clutch took a crap

red_90_gt · 11-12-2001, 09:16 PM

At 118,000 miles on my ride my clutch is shot. I was planning on going with a ford racing heavy duty one. My car is near stock and will stay this way. Any imput would be great. I was told the h-pipe must be dropped to do this task. I'm going to install an off road one while my tranny is down. Should i get aluminum or stainless steel. Is aluminum way lighter than the stainless steal? What should i check while my trans is off the car besides the mounts and the rear main seal? Thank you for any information!

stanger8172 · 11-12-2001, 09:59 PM

get a copper off road H-pipe, j/k I don't know of any stainless steel H-pipes. Any H-pipe out of a performance shop will do. And yes you do need to drop the H-pipe for a clutch change. Check your O2 sensors and I would recommend changing the clutch quadrant to an aluminum one (vs. your stock plastic) and getting a heavy duty clutch cable, oh, and a firewall adjuster would save you lots of time down the road. I guess if you rarely race then I would just change the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.

Rick 91GT · 11-12-2001, 10:19 PM

Look at the Star Performance Enginered Clutch (SPEC) Stage I, it is similar to a KC but is said to hold up better and it's cheaper. The kit comes with TOB, disc, PP and pilot tool. I would also get a good clutch quadrant and adjustable cable. Get a nice Aluminized H-Pipe or get the Mac which is HTS coated.

www.specpwr.com

Call and ask for David Norton

You'll want to do the pilot bearing, rear seal and on the tranny do the front bearing retainer (get a steel one), don't forget to resurface the flywheel as well.

Mr 5 0 · 11-13-2001, 10:23 AM

The preceeding posts are all good advice.

I would just add that at 118,000 miles on the car my recommendation would be to replace the flywheel as a matter of both safety (they crack from metal fatigue) and to ensure that you don't encounter problems with vibration after the new clutch is in (I've seen it happen).

A new stock cast-iron flywheel runs about $100.
Steel is $225. and recommended but on a stock engine, not really raced, the iron flywheel will do as the original one has lasted 118,000 miles.

Replace that rear main seal as they always leak.

11-12-2001, 09:16 PM	#1
red_90_gt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Woodridge IL, US Posts: 10	my clutch took a crap At 118,000 miles on my ride my clutch is shot. I was planning on going with a ford racing heavy duty one. My car is near stock and will stay this way. Any imput would be great. I was told the h-pipe must be dropped to do this task. I'm going to install an off road one while my tranny is down. Should i get aluminum or stainless steel. Is aluminum way lighter than the stainless steal? What should i check while my trans is off the car besides the mounts and the rear main seal? Thank you for any information!

11-12-2001, 09:59 PM	#2
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	get a copper off road H-pipe, j/k I don't know of any stainless steel H-pipes. Any H-pipe out of a performance shop will do. And yes you do need to drop the H-pipe for a clutch change. Check your O2 sensors and I would recommend changing the clutch quadrant to an aluminum one (vs. your stock plastic) and getting a heavy duty clutch cable, oh, and a firewall adjuster would save you lots of time down the road. I guess if you rarely race then I would just change the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

11-12-2001, 10:19 PM	#3
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Look at the Star Performance Enginered Clutch (SPEC) Stage I, it is similar to a KC but is said to hold up better and it's cheaper. The kit comes with TOB, disc, PP and pilot tool. I would also get a good clutch quadrant and adjustable cable. Get a nice Aluminized H-Pipe or get the Mac which is HTS coated. www.specpwr.com Call and ask for David Norton You'll want to do the pilot bearing, rear seal and on the tranny do the front bearing retainer (get a steel one), don't forget to resurface the flywheel as well. __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

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11-13-2001, 10:23 AM	#4
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	The preceeding posts are all good advice. I would just add that at 118,000 miles on the car my recommendation would be to replace the flywheel as a matter of both safety (they crack from metal fatigue) and to ensure that you don't encounter problems with vibration after the new clutch is in (I've seen it happen). A new stock cast-iron flywheel runs about $100. Steel is $225. and recommended but on a stock engine, not really raced, the iron flywheel will do as the original one has lasted 118,000 miles. Replace that rear main seal as they always leak.