Battery to the Back ????

Stang Runner · 11-21-2001, 10:44 AM

Where in the Back can I put the - Cable any one have any Pics I could see I have the + to the back already I dont want to put the - all the way to the back too so where would a good place be to put it??? THX Guys and Gals too If you can help me

PKRWUD · 11-21-2001, 11:39 AM

Bolt the negative cable from the battery to the frame, as close to the battery as possible, and in the engine compartment have a cable that goes from the frame to the engine block. Make sure all connections are clean.

Take care,
-Chris

Stang Runner · 11-21-2001, 11:44 AM

Great thx there PKRWUD

i will go do it right now.

mustang928 · 11-21-2001, 08:35 PM

You will need welders cable. The cable that is included in the battery kits are no good. Once the car get hot it will take for ever to start or will not start at all. Here is a diagram....

Stang Runner · 11-22-2001, 12:09 AM

I used #2 Cables I need to get a more stuff but here is a pick of it now.

2FastLX · 11-22-2001, 12:15 AM

You can buy battery boxes with different gauges and grades of cable. I know Taylor has a few options. Go with 2 gauge welding cable. I have mine wired just like Chris stated with the battery grounded right next to the battery box, and a ground cable running from the engine to the frame.

I ran the power wire through the firewall and along the driver's side kick panel to the rocker.
In the rocker panel I routed the cable right along with the rest of the car's wiring by going through the loops inside the rocker.
I then went up under the rear inside quarter and around the back to the shut off switch mounted on the back of my car.
From the switch I went around to the passenger inside quarter to the battery.

I mounted the battery box even with where the back of the seat used to be. The battery sits sideways with the long width of the battery going from side to side. You'll have to check where the mounting holes will be and observe contours in the floor to see where the holes will break through under the car.

Good luck, and don't hit your gas tank

Stang Runner · 11-22-2001, 11:57 AM

You'll have to check where the mounting holes will be and observe contours in the floor to see where the holes will break through under the car.

You cant see it But the have it wielded from Under the car THERE IS NO WAY it will come out But thx for telling me that1

1BAD89 · 11-23-2001, 01:42 AM

**You will need welders cable. The cable that is included in the battery kits are no good. Once the car get hot it will take for ever to start or will not start at all. Here is a diagram....

Not true, The moroso battery relocation kit+moroso's cable is awesome, the cable is beefy as he!!.

Stang Runner · 11-23-2001, 11:30 AM

2# BATTERY Cable Is the same size as MY WEIDER That I have

mustang928 · 11-23-2001, 12:39 PM

What I should have said is I suggest you use 1/o welder cable to connect the battery to the starter soleniod.. Otherwise starting problems may occur. I used the the #2 cable supplied with the moroso kit, nothing but starting problems. Replaced the 2 Gauge cable that I ran to the starter soleniod with the 1/o welder cable and now it starts up every time..

buffhomer · 11-24-2001, 01:11 AM

Check out my site here for details on how to do it correctly. (There's also a separate page with extra pics....link at the top)

I didn't put exactly where to run it, but I ran my 1/o welding cable down and under the car along the subframe connector and then up to the starter solenoid, using nylong zip-ties to attach it to the subframe connector. The 2ga cable from the alternator to the rear was routed through the firewall under the carpet and along the passenger side to the back.

------------------
1990 GT--Cold Air Ind., Full exhaust, pulleys, Mark VIII fan, manual rack, 76mm C&L, B-cam, NX wet kit

Tremec, FMS clutch, 3.73s, Megabite Jrs., 70/30s, 50/50s, 4-cyl springs

N/A
1.761...8.41@80.73...13.24@101.94 (Roswell elev. 3600ft)
1.702...8.22@83.04...12.97@103.63 (Phoenix elev. 1200ft)

NX (100shot)
1.679.....7.84@87.269.....12.30@110.44 (Roswell) <---very screwed up run
My little site

fiveohpatrol · 11-24-2001, 01:30 AM

wow, how'd you relocate your EGR spacer to your tunk like that?

Stang Runner · 11-24-2001, 09:15 AM

Cant see it put the headers Are back there too It took years of Work a desiging to make the car run But has GREAT wieght thransfer!1

11-21-2001, 10:44 AM	#1
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	Battery to the Back ???? Where in the Back can I put the - Cable any one have any Pics I could see I have the + to the back already I dont want to put the - all the way to the back too so where would a good place be to put it??? THX Guys and Gals too If you can help me __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

11-21-2001, 11:44 AM	#3
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	Great thx there PKRWUD i will go do it right now. __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

11-22-2001, 12:09 AM	#5
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	I used #2 Cables I need to get a more stuff but here is a pick of it now. __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

11-22-2001, 12:15 AM	#6
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	You can buy battery boxes with different gauges and grades of cable. I know Taylor has a few options. Go with 2 gauge welding cable. I have mine wired just like Chris stated with the battery grounded right next to the battery box, and a ground cable running from the engine to the frame. I ran the power wire through the firewall and along the driver's side kick panel to the rocker. In the rocker panel I routed the cable right along with the rest of the car's wiring by going through the loops inside the rocker. I then went up under the rear inside quarter and around the back to the shut off switch mounted on the back of my car. From the switch I went around to the passenger inside quarter to the battery. I mounted the battery box even with where the back of the seat used to be. The battery sits sideways with the long width of the battery going from side to side. You'll have to check where the mounting holes will be and observe contours in the floor to see where the holes will break through under the car. Good luck, and don't hit your gas tank __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

11-22-2001, 11:57 AM	#7
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	You'll have to check where the mounting holes will be and observe contours in the floor to see where the holes will break through under the car. You cant see it But the have it wielded from Under the car THERE IS NO WAY it will come out But thx for telling me that1 __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

11-21-2001, 11:39 AM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Bolt the negative cable from the battery to the frame, as close to the battery as possible, and in the engine compartment have a cable that goes from the frame to the engine block. Make sure all connections are clean. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

11-23-2001, 01:42 AM	#8
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	**You will need welders cable. The cable that is included in the battery kits are no good. Once the car get hot it will take for ever to start or will not start at all. Here is a diagram.... Not true, The moroso battery relocation kit+moroso's cable is awesome, the cable is beefy as he!!.

11-23-2001, 11:30 AM	#9
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	2# BATTERY Cable Is the same size as MY WEIDER That I have __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

11-23-2001, 12:39 PM	#10
mustang928 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: CALIFORNIA Posts: 35	What I should have said is I suggest you use 1/o welder cable to connect the battery to the starter soleniod.. Otherwise starting problems may occur. I used the the #2 cable supplied with the moroso kit, nothing but starting problems. Replaced the 2 Gauge cable that I ran to the starter soleniod with the 1/o welder cable and now it starts up every time..

11-24-2001, 01:11 AM	#11
buffhomer Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Artesia, NM USA Posts: 8	Check out my site here for details on how to do it correctly. (There's also a separate page with extra pics....link at the top) I didn't put exactly where to run it, but I ran my 1/o welding cable down and under the car along the subframe connector and then up to the starter solenoid, using nylong zip-ties to attach it to the subframe connector. The 2ga cable from the alternator to the rear was routed through the firewall under the carpet and along the passenger side to the back. ------------------ 1990 GT--Cold Air Ind., Full exhaust, pulleys, Mark VIII fan, manual rack, 76mm C&L, B-cam, NX wet kit Tremec, FMS clutch, 3.73s, Megabite Jrs., 70/30s, 50/50s, 4-cyl springs N/A 1.761...8.41@80.73...13.24@101.94 (Roswell elev. 3600ft) 1.702...8.22@83.04...12.97@103.63 (Phoenix elev. 1200ft) NX (100shot) 1.679.....7.84@87.269.....12.30@110.44 (Roswell) <---very screwed up run My little site Last edited by buffhomer; 11-24-2001 at 01:38 AM..

11-24-2001, 01:30 AM	#12
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	wow, how'd you relocate your EGR spacer to your tunk like that? __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

11-24-2001, 09:15 AM	#13
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	Cant see it put the headers Are back there too It took years of Work a desiging to make the car run But has GREAT wieght thransfer!1 __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

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