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01-30-2003, 04:06 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Panama City Fl.
Posts: 152
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Pedal assembly
im installing a tremec tko in place of a c4. i was curious what year mustang do i need to remove the pedals from in order to put them i my 68. and what to mount the pedals on. pics of parts would be great
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01-30-2003, 05:20 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 208
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The brake pedal support you have in your car is also used for standard transmission cars although the brake pedals are different. Generally speaking you have to find the key parts as salvage auto parts and then install new bushings as you reassemble. Where you get these parts is up to you but one place you can get all of them is http://www.ilovemymustang.com
They have new, reproduction and salvage parts for sale. |
01-30-2003, 10:50 PM | #3 |
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does the stock mounting bracket already have the holes for the clutch pedal or does one need to be drilled? what about an equalizer bar? is that needed? could you please list all or most of the parts needed to be removed from a junk car to install a pedal on my car. thanks
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01-31-2003, 12:58 PM | #4 |
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Location: Oklahoma City
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The existing brake pedal comes out of the support bracket after removing fastener. This leaves a hollow for installing the standard trans brake pedal and clutch pedal (goes in the same hollow). The difference is the clutch and brake pedal for standard trans are designed to fit together on either side of the support bracket. Its a matter of having the correct pedals, bushings and fasteners. The list of parts is fairly long and so it takes some effort to list them. There are illustrations in many parts catalogs of the pedals and pedal support bracket. If you get them from a salvage car and remove them yourself, just take all the pieces and reassemble them like you found them in the salvage car. If you order the parts from a single source, be sure to buy a complete kit of parts and not items piecemeal. I can scan an illustration and post it here if you like...from it you can figure out what you need.
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01-31-2003, 01:25 PM | #5 |
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an illustration would be great. thanks for your help
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01-31-2003, 05:21 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Jeff |
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01-31-2003, 08:45 PM | #7 |
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02-03-2003, 04:54 PM | #8 |
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Location: Az
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it's pretty simple... I switched my 68 to a toploader... switching back to auto now.. you CAN use the automatic brake pedal, but the clutch pedal is pretty close..
you'll have to punch out the stamped circle in the firewall for the clutch rod to go through, as well as maybe bend the Z_bar some if you have headers.. you need.. clutch pedal rod from clutch pedal to Z-bar, return spring, z-bar, frame side mounting bracket, engine pivot, peice that mounts the rod to the z-bar that goes to the clutch fork.. as well as the clutch pedal bushings etc.. as an option, you MIGHT go with a cable clutch... might be cheaper and easier..
__________________
84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg |
02-07-2003, 12:35 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 35
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Hydraulic
I've seen a hydraulic conversion, and it seem very simple. Many Places offer kits, just pick up an issue of mustang monthly and check out the back inside cover it's usually there, with all other T5 etc conversion stuff.
Hydraulic clutch systems, once installed are very serviceable and generally speeking need very little attention after initial install. They are expensive though. But on the flip side I spent about $90 in bushings and countless hours rebuilding my clutch z-bar and adjuster, so I guess its safe to say you get what you pay for even if the complete system is over the $300-400 mark. Good luck and have fun cause stick cars RULE! Trevor '72 351C 4-speed toploader, 3.50 track lock. |
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