Need Help!!!!!!

Lethal5Oh · 09-10-2002, 10:34 PM

Ok i still have this D*** poping. Relpaced the fuel pump, reg, coil, tfi module, wires, plugs. 5 and 6 are seperated. It only happens during hot weather after the car has warmed up than sat for acouple minutes and is restarted. Poping goes away after driving for about a minute. Pkrwud, you asked awhile ago if i could tell if it was one side or both, well its both. I need help. Every once in awhile the car will be poping the idle will go up and down then die. I cant figure it out, no check engine light while this is happening. please help.

SlowGT · 09-11-2002, 10:02 AM

You might try a set of plugs one step cooler and tighten the gap. When I got mine back together I used OEM plugs with factory recommended gap (Autolite 25 @ .058"). Changed to Autolite 24 @ .046" gap and it made an awesome difference. Another one of those instances where I'd never believe something so minor could make such a huge difference if I hadn't experienced it myself. I'm not certain that this will fix your problem, but based on your post, this is what I would try next.

Good luck. Let me know if it works for ya. or if it doesn't.

Lethal5Oh · 09-11-2002, 04:22 PM

I might end up trying that. Right now i have Autolit plats, im not sure on the number but it was what the NAPA computer recommended as correct replacements. I have them gappend to .060" as recomended by Performance Distributors for their screamin demon coil. The car runs great before and after in fact i got 34MPGs on the higway just the other day. 75 miles 2.2 gallons. Right now im alittle tight on money so ill have to try different plugs in about a month. Until then im hoping i can get someother ideas. Thanks.

SlowGT · 09-11-2002, 10:09 PM

I had a Jacobs box and the instructions with it said .060" but they said do not use platinum plugs. Couldn't get it to run right. Then I got an MSD 6A and I don't recall that they gave a recommended gap, but they did recommend against platinum plugs, though. Not sure why that is. Then somebody wanted to see my plugs to try and analyze my issues. They died laughing at the gap. That's when I went to the 24s @ .046". Haven't had any problems since. You could try regapping them just to see what happens. It would be a free troubleshooting session. I don't know that much about plat plugs. Do they have a minimum gap required for them to perform properly?

I'll ask around and post again if anybody has any new ideas.

Lethal5Oh · 09-14-2002, 12:41 AM

Thanks id appreciate it. The thing is is that this problem was happening before i did anything. All the stuff i did was done in an attempt to fix the problem. Im going to have to do as PKRWUD suggested and listen to each header pipe to see which cylinders its coming from. I talked to an autotech who said it could be a craked exhaust valve and the crack is expanding when the car is shut off and the closing up after the car is run for a few minutes. This sounds logical but im hoping for something easier/ cheaper. Thanks again.

PKRWUD · 09-14-2002, 05:20 AM

I don't think I realized you were running plats or that they were gapped that much. I don't care what anybodies computer tells you, avoid plats in your car. Plats are zero maintenance plugs, for a car that could have the hood welded shut. If you do any type of maintenance regularly, or if you mod it mildly, you are creating problems. Autolite/Motorcraft/AC Delco are all great plugs. For your application, stick with copper. Also, close the gap some. You are in a difficult situation because you should never regap plats. I'm sure money is tight, but if you can't come up with $8 for a new set of plugs, then you're wasting my time.

You need to get a set of Autolite 25's, and gap them at .050", and see if that makes a difference. If not, put the stock coil back in and see what that does.

Take care,
~Chris

Lethal5Oh · 09-19-2002, 03:18 PM

Well putting the stock coil in well be a problem because i threw it out along time ago. The car originally had non plats but im not sure on the number, i know they werent 25's. Saturday ill get some new plugs. I didnt realize plats werent supposed to be regapped. Im noticing lately that while its popping im smelling a fuel from the pipes. Probably from the plugs not firing right? I will also try listening to the headers saturday. I got a mechanics stethascope so maybe ill be able to hear it better. Ill let you know how it goes. thanks

Lethal5Oh · 09-22-2002, 12:09 PM

All right PKRWUD i did what you told me. I put in the autolite 25. I couldnt regap them to .50 becuase my gapper doesnt have .50 the one with seems to be missing. I left them at the factory gap which is i assume to be .52. The car seems to actually accelerate alittle smoother and idles smoother, exhaust actually has a smoother tone to it (if that makes sense) It was too cold yesterday to see if it was going to pop or not although it didnt do it when it was cold (it would pop when it was cold and i would rev the engine to back up etc and released the clutch and gas) if it ever gets warm enough ill let you know. Thanks for you help.

Lethal5Oh · 09-23-2002, 03:35 PM

I take that back. Its still got a minor popping when cold. This popping and the popping that happens when its hot sound the same. Could i possibly be looking at the "hall effect sensor"? Also anyone ever heard of a tool the specially made to take out the metal PCV screen on the H.O.? if so where can i get it. thanks

slantman · 10-22-2002, 12:06 AM

check your harmonic balancer and see if you can move it by hand .the rubber goes bad and will make the engine out of balance and sounds like a popping sound

09-10-2002, 10:34 PM	#1
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	Need Help!!!!!! Ok i still have this D*** poping. Relpaced the fuel pump, reg, coil, tfi module, wires, plugs. 5 and 6 are seperated. It only happens during hot weather after the car has warmed up than sat for acouple minutes and is restarted. Poping goes away after driving for about a minute. Pkrwud, you asked awhile ago if i could tell if it was one side or both, well its both. I need help. Every once in awhile the car will be poping the idle will go up and down then die. I cant figure it out, no check engine light while this is happening. please help. __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

09-11-2002, 10:02 AM	#2
SlowGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Columbia Co, PA Posts: 303	You might try a set of plugs one step cooler and tighten the gap. When I got mine back together I used OEM plugs with factory recommended gap (Autolite 25 @ .058"). Changed to Autolite 24 @ .046" gap and it made an awesome difference. Another one of those instances where I'd never believe something so minor could make such a huge difference if I hadn't experienced it myself. I'm not certain that this will fix your problem, but based on your post, this is what I would try next. Good luck. Let me know if it works for ya. or if it doesn't. __________________ Old Slow GT New Slow GT--> under construction Latest Addition: 95 Cobra R, #73, bone stock, ~6100 miles.

09-11-2002, 04:22 PM	#3
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	I might end up trying that. Right now i have Autolit plats, im not sure on the number but it was what the NAPA computer recommended as correct replacements. I have them gappend to .060" as recomended by Performance Distributors for their screamin demon coil. The car runs great before and after in fact i got 34MPGs on the higway just the other day. 75 miles 2.2 gallons. Right now im alittle tight on money so ill have to try different plugs in about a month. Until then im hoping i can get someother ideas. Thanks. __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

09-11-2002, 10:09 PM	#4
SlowGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Columbia Co, PA Posts: 303	I had a Jacobs box and the instructions with it said .060" but they said do not use platinum plugs. Couldn't get it to run right. Then I got an MSD 6A and I don't recall that they gave a recommended gap, but they did recommend against platinum plugs, though. Not sure why that is. Then somebody wanted to see my plugs to try and analyze my issues. They died laughing at the gap. That's when I went to the 24s @ .046". Haven't had any problems since. You could try regapping them just to see what happens. It would be a free troubleshooting session. I don't know that much about plat plugs. Do they have a minimum gap required for them to perform properly? I'll ask around and post again if anybody has any new ideas. __________________ Old Slow GT New Slow GT--> under construction Latest Addition: 95 Cobra R, #73, bone stock, ~6100 miles.

09-14-2002, 12:41 AM	#5
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	Thanks id appreciate it. The thing is is that this problem was happening before i did anything. All the stuff i did was done in an attempt to fix the problem. Im going to have to do as PKRWUD suggested and listen to each header pipe to see which cylinders its coming from. I talked to an autotech who said it could be a craked exhaust valve and the crack is expanding when the car is shut off and the closing up after the car is run for a few minutes. This sounds logical but im hoping for something easier/ cheaper. Thanks again. __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

09-14-2002, 05:20 AM	#6
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I don't think I realized you were running plats or that they were gapped that much. I don't care what anybodies computer tells you, avoid plats in your car. Plats are zero maintenance plugs, for a car that could have the hood welded shut. If you do any type of maintenance regularly, or if you mod it mildly, you are creating problems. Autolite/Motorcraft/AC Delco are all great plugs. For your application, stick with copper. Also, close the gap some. You are in a difficult situation because you should never regap plats. I'm sure money is tight, but if you can't come up with $8 for a new set of plugs, then you're wasting my time. You need to get a set of Autolite 25's, and gap them at .050", and see if that makes a difference. If not, put the stock coil back in and see what that does. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

09-19-2002, 03:18 PM	#7
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	Well putting the stock coil in well be a problem because i threw it out along time ago. The car originally had non plats but im not sure on the number, i know they werent 25's. Saturday ill get some new plugs. I didnt realize plats werent supposed to be regapped. Im noticing lately that while its popping im smelling a fuel from the pipes. Probably from the plugs not firing right? I will also try listening to the headers saturday. I got a mechanics stethascope so maybe ill be able to hear it better. Ill let you know how it goes. thanks __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

09-22-2002, 12:09 PM	#8
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	All right PKRWUD i did what you told me. I put in the autolite 25. I couldnt regap them to .50 becuase my gapper doesnt have .50 the one with seems to be missing. I left them at the factory gap which is i assume to be .52. The car seems to actually accelerate alittle smoother and idles smoother, exhaust actually has a smoother tone to it (if that makes sense) It was too cold yesterday to see if it was going to pop or not although it didnt do it when it was cold (it would pop when it was cold and i would rev the engine to back up etc and released the clutch and gas) if it ever gets warm enough ill let you know. Thanks for you help. __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

09-23-2002, 03:35 PM	#9
Lethal5Oh Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portage Posts: 239	I take that back. Its still got a minor popping when cold. This popping and the popping that happens when its hot sound the same. Could i possibly be looking at the "hall effect sensor"? Also anyone ever heard of a tool the specially made to take out the metal PCV screen on the H.O.? if so where can i get it. thanks __________________ '95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes

10-22-2002, 12:06 AM	#10
slantman Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: north augusta SC Posts: 12	check your harmonic balancer and see if you can move it by hand .the rubber goes bad and will make the engine out of balance and sounds like a popping sound