need help ASAP/Radiator? Im stupid!

1jimmy__d · 07-13-2002, 10:16 PM

my car was running real hot today and the other day, so i decided to drain the fluid to see if its dirty in there. Here is the stupid question- Is the radiator cap suppose to come off so i can put a hose in into flush it, or do i go through the plastic holder thingamajig? Also, Do I keep the hose in it and start the car for a while and let it run.thanks for the quick reply-

Also, what temp thermostat should i get? 165?, 190? if it matters I have nitrous now!

Thanks!

MidNiteBlu 5.0 · 07-14-2002, 02:00 AM

Take the radiator cap off and run the water through the radiator. Dont start the engine and let it run while flushing the coolant i dont think (i never do). A 180 degree T-stat is best. I dont think nitrous has anything to do with that.

Later,
Nick

1jimmy__d · 07-14-2002, 09:12 AM

I did that and when i looked down in there it was all corroded and crap was covering the holes inside the radiator. I went and bought a cleaner and it said to drive it for 6 hours with that and water in it. I put that in and drove it for like 10 minutes. It is still running a little hotter than usual about 1 line highr on the gauge (in between the M and the A). After, I will drain it again and add this pure blend stuff that is supposed to lower the temp 28 degrees (yeah right). Any other suggestions after I run it for a few hours? Also, Im an idiot- I cant get the hose off thats above the thermostat to gain access to the bolts. any suggestions? Thanks for all replies- Just trying to save money and do this crap myself!

Fox Body · 07-14-2002, 10:38 AM

Hey, you're not an idiot.

1rst thing, be very careful about adding water to a hot engine. If your car has been running for a while, do not add water to it without the engine running. If so, there is potential for serious damage.

YEah, the radiator cap is suppose to come off, so take it off. Don't go through the plastic reservoir. To flush your radiator with water, remove 2 hoses that connect to it. Open the drain plug (on bottom left--if looking at your car directly from the front) and stick a water hose in it and turn up the water as much as possible. let it flush for a minute or 2 until it starts running clear. Now hook everything back up.

The hose you can't get off is probably just about corroded and stuck to the radiator. A little more twisting and pulling will probably get it off. You need also, while you're at it to check the hoses and make sure they don't need to be changed. IF so, change them.

a 180 thermo will be good.

1jimmy__d · 07-14-2002, 09:13 PM

thanks for the replies- its very helpful. I ran the water through it and then bought some radiator cleaner crap and added water to it. just drove it for like 30 minutes. the temp gauge climbed to a little more than half way up. i then let it run idle for a while to see if it made a difference, and it did not- stayed the same temperature. do you think if i run this stuff in there for the recommended 3-6 hours it will help at all? If it isnt cooling down now, what are the chances of it cooling down after i drain it and fill it back up? I got a bad feeling its the radiator. Theres a few hundred bucks (i think)! thanks again

im suppposed to go to the track on friday (first time with nitrous) i hope i can figure out for sure whats wrong and fix it before then!

65efi · 07-14-2002, 11:12 PM

Call a radiator shop and see how much they'll charge you to clean the radiator. I had the one for my '65 boiled out, and it looks like brand new inside. Only cost $35 (I brought just the radiator in by itself).

MidNiteBlu 5.0 · 07-15-2002, 01:39 AM

A new radiator really wouldnt be that bad of an idea if yours is clogged. Mine was and I bought a new heavy duty 3 core radiator from AutoZone for 120 bucks. It works very well and fit great. you kinda have to massage the handles a bit but its not that hard.

It works great too.

later,
Nick

07-13-2002, 10:16 PM	#1
1jimmy__d Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 299	need help ASAP/Radiator? Im stupid! my car was running real hot today and the other day, so i decided to drain the fluid to see if its dirty in there. Here is the stupid question- Is the radiator cap suppose to come off so i can put a hose in into flush it, or do i go through the plastic holder thingamajig? Also, Do I keep the hose in it and start the car for a while and let it run.thanks for the quick reply- Also, what temp thermostat should i get? 165?, 190? if it matters I have nitrous now! Thanks! __________________ 90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! Last edited by 1jimmy__d; 07-13-2002 at 10:24 PM..

07-14-2002, 02:00 AM	#2
MidNiteBlu 5.0 I got something to say Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 1,557	Take the radiator cap off and run the water through the radiator. Dont start the engine and let it run while flushing the coolant i dont think (i never do). A 180 degree T-stat is best. I dont think nitrous has anything to do with that. Later, Nick __________________ 91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties 89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05 http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494 1987 Toyota Pickup Ricer Haters Club Member #33 Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang? www.jmeenterprises.com

07-14-2002, 09:12 AM	#3
1jimmy__d Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 299	I did that and when i looked down in there it was all corroded and crap was covering the holes inside the radiator. I went and bought a cleaner and it said to drive it for 6 hours with that and water in it. I put that in and drove it for like 10 minutes. It is still running a little hotter than usual about 1 line highr on the gauge (in between the M and the A). After, I will drain it again and add this pure blend stuff that is supposed to lower the temp 28 degrees (yeah right). Any other suggestions after I run it for a few hours? Also, Im an idiot- I cant get the hose off thats above the thermostat to gain access to the bolts. any suggestions? Thanks for all replies- Just trying to save money and do this crap myself! __________________ 90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!

07-14-2002, 10:38 AM	#4
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Hey, you're not an idiot. 1rst thing, be very careful about adding water to a hot engine. If your car has been running for a while, do not add water to it without the engine running. If so, there is potential for serious damage. YEah, the radiator cap is suppose to come off, so take it off. Don't go through the plastic reservoir. To flush your radiator with water, remove 2 hoses that connect to it. Open the drain plug (on bottom left--if looking at your car directly from the front) and stick a water hose in it and turn up the water as much as possible. let it flush for a minute or 2 until it starts running clear. Now hook everything back up. The hose you can't get off is probably just about corroded and stuck to the radiator. A little more twisting and pulling will probably get it off. You need also, while you're at it to check the hoses and make sure they don't need to be changed. IF so, change them. a 180 thermo will be good. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

07-14-2002, 09:13 PM	#5
1jimmy__d Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 299	thanks for the replies- its very helpful. I ran the water through it and then bought some radiator cleaner crap and added water to it. just drove it for like 30 minutes. the temp gauge climbed to a little more than half way up. i then let it run idle for a while to see if it made a difference, and it did not- stayed the same temperature. do you think if i run this stuff in there for the recommended 3-6 hours it will help at all? If it isnt cooling down now, what are the chances of it cooling down after i drain it and fill it back up? I got a bad feeling its the radiator. Theres a few hundred bucks (i think)! thanks again im suppposed to go to the track on friday (first time with nitrous) i hope i can figure out for sure whats wrong and fix it before then! __________________ 90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction!

07-14-2002, 11:12 PM	#6
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	Call a radiator shop and see how much they'll charge you to clean the radiator. I had the one for my '65 boiled out, and it looks like brand new inside. Only cost $35 (I brought just the radiator in by itself).

07-15-2002, 01:39 AM	#7
MidNiteBlu 5.0 I got something to say Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 1,557	A new radiator really wouldnt be that bad of an idea if yours is clogged. Mine was and I bought a new heavy duty 3 core radiator from AutoZone for 120 bucks. It works very well and fit great. you kinda have to massage the handles a bit but its not that hard. It works great too. later, Nick __________________ 91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties 89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05 http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494 1987 Toyota Pickup Ricer Haters Club Member #33 Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang? www.jmeenterprises.com

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