need help,transplanting 89 5.0 into my 95 v6

[mustang_man1995]

i have a 1995 v6 automatic, i bought a high hp motor and 5 spd trans from a 1989 mustang. i have the complete engine harness and computer out of the 89. what would be the best and easiest way to do the swap?? i was thinking about using a painless wiring kit, but i was told that if i found a harness and computer from a 94 or 95 gt, that it would be much easier. but i was told by another person that i would need to change something with the distributor and the fuel rail!! please, i need all the help you guys can give me. i'm trying to get the car ready for the spring, and i'm confused!!!

[1987StangL268X]

Good Luck.....all i can say. go with a carb. it would be MUCH easier

[v8-7]

Transfer over all the fox sensors and connect everything using the stock harness and computer . It's not that hard and you will be happier w/ the fuel injection.

There are a lot of good sites to help w/ wiring. But mostly the wiring harness / computer is self contained . get 12v to a few spots , switched 12v to a few and grounds .

I swapped in a 91 5.0 to an 85 rx-7 and it is Calif smog legal, and runs great w/ no tuning problems.

If you have any specific questions, lmk.

I also have a write -up somewhere ofr a 5.0/rx-7 swap that might help.

Stan

[mustang_man1995]

Stan that sounds pretty good, i definetly want to keep with the fuel injection. just have a couple of questions; will my gauges still work if i put in the 89 motor, also the harness for the 89 has the headlight sockets in it,is this just mixed into the engine harness and will they seperate if i unravel all the tape holding the harness together? thanks, i really appreciate the help. also Stan, if you could find that write up you were talking about for the rx7 it would be great. thanks again,
james

[v8-7]

Here you go. A lot if the info and diagrams I got off this site ( Thanks T.Moss).

Send me your e-mail address and I'll send some wiring diagrams ,etc.

Leave any existing wiring on the car until your sure you don't need it .

Usefull wirinig diagrams http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ineHarness.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...g5.0Vacuum.gif

There are times you will unwrap the existing harness as well as the fox harness. Sounds like your headlights are one of those.

You probly won't have to mess w/ your gauge wiring except I don't know if your tach will work accurately off an 8 cyl trigger .



This is for a 1st gen rx-7 and an '88-'93 Mustang SEFI harness (mas air flow
meter), although I think any A9L computer will be close or the same.


1. get 12V, always hot , to the yellow wire that goes to the eec relay.
This yellow wire goes through the wiring harness and comes out near the
remote starter relay. This is always hot so just wire it to the pigtail wire
that comes off the + battery terminal ( put a fuse or fusible link in
series ).


2. get switched 12v to the eec relay .

The red/light green wire that goes to the ignition should be spliced into
the heavy black/white wire that went to the Mazda coils . There are 2 of
these black/white wires , they are both the same.

That will serve both functions of getting switched 12v to the ignition and
the eec relay.

3. connect 12v, always hot, to the stock Mazda fusible link just the way it
was from Mazda. The fuel pump will now work as well, although the wires may
have to upgraded to a slightly heavier gauge . The fuel pump is not being
controlled by
the ford ecu so you will get code 87. If you need to get it past smog, wire
the fuel pump as follows:
relay primary one side to 12v
the other side to pin 4 of the ecu lb/o colored wire.

secondary, perm side to 12v
switched relay side to the inertia switch, then the + fuel pump.

connect pin 19wire (dark green/yellow to the + side of the fuel pump.


4. Pin 40 and 60 go through the wiring harness and connect through a
connector to the body (anywhere ) for ground, and pin 20 a black wire, comes
off the ecu near the eec relay with a ring lug connector , this needs to be
grounded to the body .

5. The o2 sensors, need switched 12 v .
I cut the grey/yellow wire in the blue 8 pin connector next to the computer
and pulled it back out of the harness ( into the engine compartment ) .

I ran it through the other side of the harness , past where the wires "y"
off to the injectors, added a few feet ,and tied it into the switched 12v
from the black/white Mazda wires.

6. Ground pins 49, (orange ) and 6 ( pk/o.

7. to hook up the check engine light ( needed for calif smog ) connect both
pk/lg wires from c213 to one side of a 12v lamp and switched 12v to the
other.

8. The check engine light will stay on due to the neutral/clutch switch (
code 67), so ground pin 30 (light blue w/ yellow stripe) to remove that code

9. to wire the alt, the b/o wires go through a 14 g fusible link to batt +

the "a" ( y/w) also goes to batt through an 18 g fusiblelink and the
"i"( y/w ) goes to the w/b from the 7 that used to go to the rx-7 alt "t "
shaped connector ( same as the 7 ) off the choke/check relay .

You also need to jumper the "s" to the "s", between the 2 connectors.
.

[mustang_man1995]

sounds kinda confusing, lol. it's the most useful information i've gotten so far. the reference to the mazda harness gets my a little confused. but i'm sure if i take my time and read through it a view times it will make more sense! thanks for your input,
james

[v8-7]

I can see where it is confusing.

I probably spent 5-10 hours figureing this out for each hour I wired.

Try and get a factory service manual off e-bay for cheap so you can see each diagram that your working on ,and a service manual from your exising car will also help.


But like you noted, one step at a time .a few good sites other than this one:
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/
http://www.californiafords.com.

I emailed you about 5 or 6 electrical diagrams and the vacuum schematic .

So, one circuit at a time , study the schematic and figure out what you need .

I'm sure your wiring will be easier than mine , such as your fuel pump may already be wired correctly.

I'm only running about a 102lph (rated) fuel pump, so your fuel pump may even work

Good luck, Stan

[mustang_man1995]

wow, that sounds like a lot of work! i don't mean to sound unthankfull for the information that you gave me. i just want to know if anyone else knows an easier way? i would think that putting a ford 5.0 into a car that has the option of a 5.0 straight from the factory, would be a little bit easier than that! but, maybe it isn't!