Need Suspension Help!

JohnnyG · 01-11-2001, 03:27 PM

My car: 91 GT Convertible with bone-stock suspension.

My Problem: I got in a decent accident with my car as I learned the degree of understeer it has with the stock suspension. I hit a 9 inch high curb and it ate nearly my whole front end. So I replaced all parts where I saw necessary and took it out on the road.

The thing handles like a boat. Nose-dives like a mother when I brake, and actually bottoms-out from time to time.

Now my first gut instinct is to replace the struts... and the shocks while I'm at it. Do you think any other parts need attention?

Also, down the road I was planning on adding a MM suspension kit. So I don't throw money away, I was thinking of going witht the shocks and struts that MM uses in their kit. I think they're Blisteins. Will these work with an otherwise stock suspension? What if I purchased the springs that MM uses in this kit as well?

I don't want to be throwing money away, but I also cannot afford the whole kit right now. I just want to get my car safely back on the road. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

-John

lito · 01-11-2001, 08:15 PM

In the early begginings had Bilstein with stock suspension, then started changing everything else. Good struts then, still good struts now. If you plan street usage with some track time, they are just perfect.

For racing purposes I think they are little bit soft, maybe becuase I'm in the range of 1000lbs/in spring fronts, and under hard pressure thru slaloms at autocross they tend to bounce.

But they are excellent!

lito
Caracas, Venezuela

MM products are excellent and Chuck is a great, very helpful guy.

------------------
92GT,SOLO RACER, COBRA BRAKES, R1 TIRES, GT40, GT40X HEADS 58CC, 24LBS, 70MM/65MM, E303, 4.10, MANY ROAD RACE MODS, CORVETTE, CAMARO, RX7 AND SUPRA SOLO EVENT EATER

killersracing.com

AxemanZZ · 01-12-2001, 02:25 AM

Bilsteins are amoung the best available and I'd assume they have a lifetime warranty on there adjustables even when used on lowered vehicles. But for a little more than the cost of Bilsteins you can go with the ultimate in struts and shocks and get a set of Koni's. IMO they are THE best. I have a set of Koni Sport Yellows on my Stang and they made one helluva difference in carving the corners.

Do you do the whole drag race thing or are you looking at improving the cornering ability?

Maximum Motorsports make some really kick@ss suspension systems so you really couldn't go wrong buying individual components from their kits. It'll just cost you a bit more in the long run buying a piece at a time. No biggie really because I'm doing the exact same thing with the Kenny Brown setup I eventually want to have, and am seriously considering going with a Maximum Motorsport setup.

I'd start with the struts and shocks then go for springs and caster/camber plates if you are lowering it. Also, sub-frame connectors should be installed as well to help stiffen up the frame because a stiffer suspension is going to place more stress on the uni-body.

The best prices I found in my extensive search for struts and shocks was www.shox.com
They are good people to deal with too.
------------------
90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

[This message has been edited by AxemanZZ (edited 01-12-2001).]

Skankin · 01-12-2001, 02:07 PM

The MM torque arm kit does seem to be the best bang for the buck. Eliminating the upper control arms will drastically lower the rear roll centre, so the outside front tire won't be overloaded as much (in a turn).
[plus you don't get the aweful rear jacking when braking].

The inside front tire looses grip long before the outside does... so using some heavier springs will really help keep it down.

Some front urethane control arm bushings will help maintain the crappy alignment. Throw on a lower chassis brace, and you won't believe the turn in response.

Some good subframe connectors are a MUST on the convertible. The really help the car transition from one turn to another... actually letting the suspension do the work rather than twisting the floor pan.

Going with the MM stuff up front as well is a good budget fix... get some CC plates, and go for MAX caster, about -1 deg camber, and 1/16" toe in.

You might wanna check out some of the stuff (CC plates, control arms, etc) at http://www.hotpart.com/ ...AWESOME prices.
www.ipschassis.com has some interesting stuff (good info on mustang suspensions too). The Sport front gives you an SLA setup for $600 (using stock LCA, springs, etc). When you consider the fact you won't need cc plates or a tower brace (since you eliminate the struts), it's not really that much. Lots of caster, camber gain, anti-dive... I don't know why more people aren't jumping all over it! I think the rear 4 link is a better idea than a torque arm, but the modified Watts link lateral location device is just to complex... I'd just go for a simple panhard bar.

Grigg's is finally developing an SLA front end, which should be totally awesome. It'd be nice to actually have camber GAIN in a corner. It'll probably shed about 75# off the front, but will probably run $2K or so for the K-member, coil-overs, etc. Pricie, but it'll probably be the ultimate setup.

01-11-2001, 03:27 PM	#1
JohnnyG Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Baltimore, MD USA Posts: 105	Need Suspension Help! My car: 91 GT Convertible with bone-stock suspension. My Problem: I got in a decent accident with my car as I learned the degree of understeer it has with the stock suspension. I hit a 9 inch high curb and it ate nearly my whole front end. So I replaced all parts where I saw necessary and took it out on the road. The thing handles like a boat. Nose-dives like a mother when I brake, and actually bottoms-out from time to time. Now my first gut instinct is to replace the struts... and the shocks while I'm at it. Do you think any other parts need attention? Also, down the road I was planning on adding a MM suspension kit. So I don't throw money away, I was thinking of going witht the shocks and struts that MM uses in their kit. I think they're Blisteins. Will these work with an otherwise stock suspension? What if I purchased the springs that MM uses in this kit as well? I don't want to be throwing money away, but I also cannot afford the whole kit right now. I just want to get my car safely back on the road. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. -John

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01-11-2001, 08:15 PM	#2
lito Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Caracas, Venezuela Posts: 81	In the early begginings had Bilstein with stock suspension, then started changing everything else. Good struts then, still good struts now. If you plan street usage with some track time, they are just perfect. For racing purposes I think they are little bit soft, maybe becuase I'm in the range of 1000lbs/in spring fronts, and under hard pressure thru slaloms at autocross they tend to bounce. But they are excellent! lito Caracas, Venezuela MM products are excellent and Chuck is a great, very helpful guy. ------------------ 92GT,SOLO RACER, COBRA BRAKES, R1 TIRES, GT40, GT40X HEADS 58CC, 24LBS, 70MM/65MM, E303, 4.10, MANY ROAD RACE MODS, CORVETTE, CAMARO, RX7 AND SUPRA SOLO EVENT EATER killersracing.com

01-12-2001, 02:25 AM	#3
AxemanZZ Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 984	Bilsteins are amoung the best available and I'd assume they have a lifetime warranty on there adjustables even when used on lowered vehicles. But for a little more than the cost of Bilsteins you can go with the ultimate in struts and shocks and get a set of Koni's. IMO they are THE best. I have a set of Koni Sport Yellows on my Stang and they made one helluva difference in carving the corners. Do you do the whole drag race thing or are you looking at improving the cornering ability? Maximum Motorsports make some really kick@ss suspension systems so you really couldn't go wrong buying individual components from their kits. It'll just cost you a bit more in the long run buying a piece at a time. No biggie really because I'm doing the exact same thing with the Kenny Brown setup I eventually want to have, and am seriously considering going with a Maximum Motorsport setup. I'd start with the struts and shocks then go for springs and caster/camber plates if you are lowering it. Also, sub-frame connectors should be installed as well to help stiffen up the frame because a stiffer suspension is going to place more stress on the uni-body. The best prices I found in my extensive search for struts and shocks was www.shox.com They are good people to deal with too. ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site [This message has been edited by AxemanZZ (edited 01-12-2001).]

01-12-2001, 02:07 PM	#4
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	The MM torque arm kit does seem to be the best bang for the buck. Eliminating the upper control arms will drastically lower the rear roll centre, so the outside front tire won't be overloaded as much (in a turn). [plus you don't get the aweful rear jacking when braking]. The inside front tire looses grip long before the outside does... so using some heavier springs will really help keep it down. Some front urethane control arm bushings will help maintain the crappy alignment. Throw on a lower chassis brace, and you won't believe the turn in response. Some good subframe connectors are a MUST on the convertible. The really help the car transition from one turn to another... actually letting the suspension do the work rather than twisting the floor pan. Going with the MM stuff up front as well is a good budget fix... get some CC plates, and go for MAX caster, about -1 deg camber, and 1/16" toe in. You might wanna check out some of the stuff (CC plates, control arms, etc) at http://www.hotpart.com/ ...AWESOME prices. www.ipschassis.com has some interesting stuff (good info on mustang suspensions too). The Sport front gives you an SLA setup for $600 (using stock LCA, springs, etc). When you consider the fact you won't need cc plates or a tower brace (since you eliminate the struts), it's not really that much. Lots of caster, camber gain, anti-dive... I don't know why more people aren't jumping all over it! I think the rear 4 link is a better idea than a torque arm, but the modified Watts link lateral location device is just to complex... I'd just go for a simple panhard bar. Grigg's is finally developing an SLA front end, which should be totally awesome. It'd be nice to actually have camber GAIN in a corner. It'll probably shed about 75# off the front, but will probably run $2K or so for the K-member, coil-overs, etc. Pricie, but it'll probably be the ultimate setup.