Please HELP: Desperate Need of info on what to do before I start engine

2QuartzLow · 06-24-2001, 09:53 PM

Hi everyone, I just got a hold of a 1990 5.0 that has been sitting in someones garage for 4 years, the guy lost his license way back, and hasnt driven or started the car for a very long time. The car isnt weather beaten or worn, and has low miles on the engine. Besides the dead battery, I need some tips on stuff to do before I even try to start it. For example, should I replace all the fluids, what about the filters, etc. Please give me some real advice, as this was a big investment. Thanks in advance for all your help.

(PS: I posted this message in another spot, but Im new to the board, and I believe it belongs here instead, PLEASE GIVE ME ADVICE)

82 GT · 06-24-2001, 10:10 PM

To be safe,I would prime the engine before I started it and I would also change the oil and the fluids and filters like you mentioned. I would definatly change the oil and anti-freeze if anything. Priming the engine wouldn't be necessary but just a good idea. Also chech the tires for dry rot. How much gas is in the tank? If it's almost empty then I would also fill the tank to dilute any moisture that's in there from setting all that time.
Hope this helps

------------------
'82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust.
1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

dinomite · 06-24-2001, 10:49 PM

Change your oil and antifreeze. Get some "dry gas" from your local automotive store, and put 1-2 bottles in, depending on how full the tank is, that'll take car of the water.

2FastLX · 06-25-2001, 12:23 AM

Did he go out and start the car at all in those 4 years? If not, just for the hell of it and to prime the pump and pump some oil through the engine I would pull the coil wire and crank it for a minute or so. Make sure the tranny is full of fluid, and you might want to run some injector cleaner though it with every other tank full for the first few weeks or so too. Good luck!

------------------
Gunning for 12's!

My Stang Page
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

dinomite · 06-25-2001, 10:35 AM

2FastLX has a good idea, after you change the oil, prime it and then crank it (make sure you have some charge) for a little bit

82 GT · 06-25-2001, 10:56 PM

Pulling the coil wire and cranking the engine would defeat the purpose of preventing a "dry" start up. You would still have that metal-metal contact with or without the coil being hooked up. Priming the engine would ensure full lubrication before the engine was even cranked over.
I understand what you are saying but I don't see the difference between that and just starting up the car.

------------------
'82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust.
1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

2FastLX · 06-26-2001, 12:01 AM

You can prime the engine by pulling the distributer and cranking the oil pump shaft with a drill, but that can be a pain if you don't have an old distrubuter lying around. Plus you could pull each plug and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Also pull the valve covers and squirt some oil around the rockers and down the pushrods into the lifter valley which probably would be a good idea.

After that do what I mentioned above about pulling the coil wire. Cranking the engine with the coil wire off isn't the same as just firing it up BTW. Your starter won't turn your engine anywhere near the rpm it will be turning when it is idling. Plus you don't have the combustion of fuel in the cylinder putting premature force on the bearings, rods, crank, etc before they are primed with oil. Parts are just rotating, not really working.

------------------
Gunning for 12's!

My Stang Page
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 06-26-2001).]

fiveohpatrol · 06-26-2001, 01:12 AM

by the way guys, you dont need an old distributor to prime the pump that way (although it is easier) you can get a 1/4" drive with a 1/4" socket and a lengthy extension ran by a drill in reverse to do the same thing-pull the distributor and run the pump driveshaft with it- make sure you don't drop the socket in the pan though

------------------
88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35

06-24-2001, 09:53 PM	#1
2QuartzLow Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 2	Please HELP: Desperate Need of info on what to do before I start engine Hi everyone, I just got a hold of a 1990 5.0 that has been sitting in someones garage for 4 years, the guy lost his license way back, and hasnt driven or started the car for a very long time. The car isnt weather beaten or worn, and has low miles on the engine. Besides the dead battery, I need some tips on stuff to do before I even try to start it. For example, should I replace all the fluids, what about the filters, etc. Please give me some real advice, as this was a big investment. Thanks in advance for all your help. (PS: I posted this message in another spot, but Im new to the board, and I believe it belongs here instead, PLEASE GIVE ME ADVICE)

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06-24-2001, 10:10 PM	#2
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	To be safe,I would prime the engine before I started it and I would also change the oil and the fluids and filters like you mentioned. I would definatly change the oil and anti-freeze if anything. Priming the engine wouldn't be necessary but just a good idea. Also chech the tires for dry rot. How much gas is in the tank? If it's almost empty then I would also fill the tank to dilute any moisture that's in there from setting all that time. Hope this helps ------------------ '82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust. 1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

06-24-2001, 10:49 PM	#3
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Change your oil and antifreeze. Get some "dry gas" from your local automotive store, and put 1-2 bottles in, depending on how full the tank is, that'll take car of the water.

06-25-2001, 12:23 AM	#4
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Did he go out and start the car at all in those 4 years? If not, just for the hell of it and to prime the pump and pump some oil through the engine I would pull the coil wire and crank it for a minute or so. Make sure the tranny is full of fluid, and you might want to run some injector cleaner though it with every other tank full for the first few weeks or so too. Good luck! ------------------ Gunning for 12's! My Stang Page Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

06-25-2001, 10:35 AM	#5
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	2FastLX has a good idea, after you change the oil, prime it and then crank it (make sure you have some charge) for a little bit

06-25-2001, 10:56 PM	#6
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Pulling the coil wire and cranking the engine would defeat the purpose of preventing a "dry" start up. You would still have that metal-metal contact with or without the coil being hooked up. Priming the engine would ensure full lubrication before the engine was even cranked over. I understand what you are saying but I don't see the difference between that and just starting up the car. ------------------ '82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust. 1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

06-26-2001, 12:01 AM	#7
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	You can prime the engine by pulling the distributer and cranking the oil pump shaft with a drill, but that can be a pain if you don't have an old distrubuter lying around. Plus you could pull each plug and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Also pull the valve covers and squirt some oil around the rockers and down the pushrods into the lifter valley which probably would be a good idea. After that do what I mentioned above about pulling the coil wire. Cranking the engine with the coil wire off isn't the same as just firing it up BTW. Your starter won't turn your engine anywhere near the rpm it will be turning when it is idling. Plus you don't have the combustion of fuel in the cylinder putting premature force on the bearings, rods, crank, etc before they are primed with oil. Parts are just rotating, not really working. ------------------ Gunning for 12's! My Stang Page Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 06-26-2001).]

06-26-2001, 01:12 AM	#8
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	by the way guys, you dont need an old distributor to prime the pump that way (although it is easier) you can get a 1/4" drive with a 1/4" socket and a lengthy extension ran by a drill in reverse to do the same thing-pull the distributor and run the pump driveshaft with it- make sure you don't drop the socket in the pan though ------------------ 88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35