need your help with cam selection
 

I have a 95 GT automatic. I have already installed MAC unequal shorties, MAC off-road H pipe, 2 chamber flows, MAC cai, Baumann shift kit, 180 thermostat and bumped the timing to 15. I decided that this is just too slow. I have managed a 14.2 @ 98 with street tires. To solve this problem I have purchased AFR 165 58cc heads, Cobra intake, 1.7 rr, 65mm throttle body, 75mm MAF, 24#injectors. I have not yet installed any of these parts because I haven't decided on a cam. I am getting a 2800 or 3000 stall. I also need this cam to be emmissions legal. I was thinking E303 or Trick flow #1 cam. I would like peoples opinion on this, all of the pluses and the minuses on these two cams. I think I will probably have to get rid of the 1.7rr's but would like not to. I appreciate all sugestions that you have. Thank you.

Trick Flow #1 cam
 

I really like my TFS #1 cam and I don't have any complaints with it. I don't think it has a C.A.R.B. certification so passing an emissions test may not happen.

Just Stay with the Stock if you the 1.7 right now Trust me with those head it will work very good. 12's Should ez

I would use the stock cam but I bought stud rockers and I don't want to have to do this again. I figure it is all going to be apart, why not just do it right the first time. I would like it if my car would at least pull to 5500 rpm's, it sucks above 5000. I forgot to mention that the heads are ported alittle bit and I am sending the intake to extrude hone to get it hogged out. But if you think that the stock cam would be best for the combo then I will go with it. I don't know, thats why I ask. Thanks for the replys so far but please keep them coming.

it si Up to you in the Long Run But with my stock cam It Pules Hard to as far has I have let it Good 6300 EZ.

I was just wondering but what would the lift be at the valve with the Ecam and 1.7 rr? Would it hurt the torque down low? And what will my compression be with the stock pistons and 58cc heads? Thanks.

I would suggest maybe a Crane or comp cams cam thats split duration and made for 1.7 RR, that way you won't have to worry about too much lift. The stock cam is good, and with 1.7's can make you fly, but with heads and intake, you might as well put something in that'll take advantage of the mods you've done. I've been in a car with the TFS #1 cam and a similar combo, and in my opinion is a better choice than the E cam, but with 1.7s you'll have to give some more thought about piston to valve clearance.

Compression should be around 9.5:1 to 10:1.

The Compression will be a 9.8:1 with the 58cc heads

The stock cam only pulls hard to about 5100 rpm. The lift and duration with that cam will not make much power. You could go with the E cam that you mentioned and continue to use the 1.7 rockers.

valve covers
 

Stang Runner, where did you get your valve covers? I know that the stock valve covers don't fit unless you cut the baffle alittle bit and I don't want to do that. Thanks.

-Billy

Also Stang Runner, can you give me any advice on the install of the heads and intake. Did everything fit well? I just want to be prepared for this install and don't want anything to go wrong. Thanks for all the help so far but by all means keep it coming.

-Billy

I did have to Grind them a bit and take the Baffle out with those. not Much to say about the head install, should get new head dowles when you do the heads. not much to it realy just need a Torque wench for the head in stall tooyou will need a 1in spacer with the Intake I belive too I did not sure on that in intake have fun!!!;)

E cam lift is .498" right? If so, the lift with 1.7's will be .529", I've heard of people doing this, but you might wanna check PTV clearance anyway just for peace of mind.

By the way, the way to find the lift with a different ratio rocker is to take the 1.6 advertised lift (.498) and multiply it by your new ratio divided by 1.6 (1.7/1.6) in this case

so the equation is--> (.498)*(1.7/1.6) = .529125"

hope this helps

Stang Runner thanks for the suggestions on the install. I think everything will go ok. I am getting the guy I got the heads from to help me install everything. I just wanted to know if I needed any more parts for the install that I might not have mentioned. Thanks though.

fiveohpatrol, thanks for that equation. I will have ro remember that for future refrence. Thanks.

-Billy

Just wondering, but what would my combo be like if I got the B303 cam to go with my 1.7rr's. That would give me .510 lift. I want as much lift as I can get away with and not lose driveability and still be emmissions legal. Thanks for all the help so far.

-Billy

I'd personally stay away from the motorsport cams. People seem to have a decent amount of idle problems with them and make more power with different company's cams.
I have a B303 that I have yet to put in (it'll be put in in about 5 weeks on my next break) but the only reason I got it is because it was used and cheap. I got it off E-bay for $100.

If I was in your situation, with the great heads and pretty good intake that you have, theres no way I would skimp on the cam. I'd give anderson ford/Ed Curtis/ and Trick Flow a call, tell them what you have, what you want to do with the car and then they'll reccomend a cam that best suits your needs.

good luck

Thanks for the replys guys. Mach 1, do you happen to know the specs on that cam? I would like to know what the lift would be with the 1.7rr's. Thanks.

fiveohpatrol, I think I'll give Ed Curtis a call to see what he recomends for my combo. Thanks for the suggestion.

-Billy

Well, since your going with an aftermarket cam, you should have bought 1.6 ratio rockers, gives you more cam choices.

You have to be careful choosing a cam with an AOD tranny. You need a wider LSA for good torque down low and a broad powerband.

I recommend comp. cams. part no# 35-310-8

Its got a sweet idle, mild enough for great street manners, but has a nastly little "lump" to it. It has a 114 lsa (good for automatics) and a split duration so its a great cam for a power adder down the road. It does has high lift, and was designed for 1.6 rockers, but Im sure it would work with 1.7's also.

Mach 1, I went to the comp cams web site and it didn't have any info on that cam. If any one knows the specs on it, please tell me. I am going to call FTI tomarrow and talk to Ed to see what he recomends. Please don't stop with the suggestions. They are all very helpful. Thanks.

-Billy

You have to remember that all these suggestions these fellow stangers are giving you are mostly using their experiences with their Fox cars, you (as do I) have SN95's, and with them come the dreaded EEC's. They do not function the same with the same cams. The performance gains might be similar, but the idle and driveablity issues might give you fits.

You can see what my set-up is currently with my car and I'm planning on AFR 165 58cc's in the near future. I have heard great things about Ed Curtis and might look to his FTI stuff in the future. Let me know what he has to say, I'm very curious.

I'm heard to stay away from the alphabet cams, and Mach 1 was on the money when he said you need a cam with a higher LSA, I've heard 114 will work good.

Other cams that I've heard work well with our cars are the Crane 2031 and the Steeda #19.

Once again, talk to Ed and let us know what he says.

comp cams part no. 35-310-8

operating rpm range - 1500-5500

duration (advertised) - 270 Intake, 276 Ex.

duration @ .050 - 215 intake, 220 Ex.

lift with 1.6 - .533 intake, .540 ex.

LSA - 114


I have this cam, one of the reasons I can recommend it is from personal experience. I bought it in 1998, so maybe they changed partnumbers on thier website.

Mach 1, I've looked around on the comp cams web site to see it I could find a cam that would resemble that cam, I couldn't find one. I will call them today to if I have time. By the way, is your bottom end stock, mine is. Would that cam work with a stock bottom end? Thanks for the info.

Musky, I am going to try to call FTI today, I will tell you what he told me about cam selection. I also tried to find specs on the crane cam 2031, it wasn't listed on their site. Do you know the specs? Thanks for the help.

-Billy

Yes, my bottom end is stock. They (comp. cams) might have changed the part numbers around? They make MANY 5.0 liter cams and Im sure they have that grind if not something similar.

The best thing to do is get a catalog from them. Try ordering a catalog from the web site, a lot of times they are free.

Well, I finally got a hold of Ed Curtis. I told him about my combo and about the heads that I have. He said it would take a couple of days to get some numbers for the cam. He also said the cam would be $325 sent to your door.

My car is an automatic and has to be able to get through emissions test every other year, so my cam probably wouldn't be anything like the cam that you get. It would be best to call him (401-828-9302) and tell him what you have and what you want. He is very nice and easy to understand. He is hard to get a hold of, so he says to call around 7:30. The cam is a little expencive, but very worth it, I think.

Thanks for all the help on this subject.

-Billy

Wow what a sucky price! I paid a little over $400 for my Xtreme Energy cam AND lifters, sent to the machine shop door...

I agree with the advice about the alphabet cams, hell my block cam with a E303 with less than 2k, and I handed it over to my buddy for a tank of gas:D

Like I've told you before, I went with a dual pattern cam with 500+ lift from Comp Cams, and am REALLY happy with it (on my SN-95) I've also heard good things about the Trick #1 and the Steeda #19...you just have to decide what characteristics you want (low end or high end etc) first. I personally would have stayed with the 1.6 rockers though...

Remember its all your call, and let us know what you decide!

Belle, I cant believe your running that fairly large cam. with ported stock heads?

I just get the feeling your car is a real dog down low. Is it sluggish on the bottom end?

Not at all actually, maybe thanks to the 4.10s. Could be better, but I can't afford my heads right now, and I've lost interest in the car now that riding season is getting closer. I mean, I want to upgrade them eventually, but its way on the back burner for now. I'll just be happy when it runs right :)

Hey Mustangbelle306, how did your car run with the new cam. Did you get a chip or did your car idle and run fine. I have heard a lot of people say that the SN-95 computers really suck when you change heads and cam. What should I do about this? Thanks

-Billy

Honestly I can't say for sure yet, because my idle has been bumped too low, and I've been having stalling problems thanks to the same moron at the machine shop. Once we put it back to where it was IDLING FINE PREVIOUSLY :rolleyes: I'll let you know for sure what's going on with it.

A chip probably wouldn't hurt anyways, especially if your check engine light is on bc of an off road H or X pipe. Personally, I'm reinstalling my cats, but having a chip custom done may be worth it if you have the dough. People are usually split on their opinion of chips..I'd consult with a trusted mechanic.

How did they "bump" your idle to low?

If they just turned the idle adjust screw on the throttle body, you can turn it back up. As there is no other way to "bump" your idle without a computer chip, or with an Air idle bypass valve add on that I know of?

Where is the idle adjust screw on the throttle body? Is there anything else I should know about, like tuning that I can do without getting a chip? I will adventually get a chip, I just want to know what i should do to try and cure some tuning issues. Thanks

-Billy

No, theres not much you can do, set the timing, and keep the parts fresh (plugs, wires, cap , rotor, PVC valve, filters, etc...)

An adjustable fuel pressure regulater and a fuel pressure gauge can help some, but you dont need a computer chip.

i dont have one, and many others as well.

interesting...belle says she loves her cam and recommends it...yet her car runs like crap?