I feel like there is way to many mixed matched parts happening here. First, get a new UPPER AND LOWER.. The Victor 5.8 fine, secondly, get the bbk fenderwell cold air intake, it will work great I use it myself. Reset your Timing at 16 degrees. You said h-pipe with cats or without? If you have cats, GET RID OF THEM, they will kill you the most. if everything is up tp par, you shouldn't have idleing issues. Check you ignition too, Run a separite Ground Strap from the battery to the Distributor hold down nut and see if she smooths out.. I has crazy problems with a bad ground cable that looked to be in mint shape. They corrode from the inside out. Ignition coil too, check that. when you pull the chip, is your idle set properly? I think A complete look over is needed, maybe get second opinions or a local guy to help you out. Your engine biulder mighty know how to build a block but know $hit about getting it to work with the components. Thats my guess.....

I just helped a friend with his 393 stroker and we put a Trick Flow R upper and lower intake on it. The quality and the price of the intake was awesome

Cats ae gone...already have the BBK cold air intake in the fenderwell...but I was just told to get rid of it because the MAF doesn't like bends before the meter.....which way should I go? If I get the new intake, won't that be mismatched with the heads??

Can you explain how I set the timing to 16 degrees with a dial timing light? Based on the pic I attached yesterday, is my timing currently set to 10 degrees?? I set the dial to 10, and the black mark on my damper showed up at the mark I labeled "B" in the pic. I just need help figuring out where my timing is before I go screwing around with it. thanks

What else is in his setup?? What's he running for ET's and MPH??

With the spot off set the dial to 16 degrees, then match it to 16 degrees on the plate.. your running preformer head to the Intake will be just fine. i don't see any issues with the victor Jr intake.

393 10 to 1
Edelbrock victor junior heads port matched.
600 lift cam 224 duration
Trick flow R intake.
1 3/4 long tube headers

We only have a 65mm throttle body on there right now with 2 1/2 exhaust and it dynoed. 420 RWHP 460 RWTQ.

After its broke in we will upgrade to a 75mm TB and 3 inch exhaust.

No track times yet we just finished it Monday.

First of all, MSD does not recommend dial-back type timing lights when timing engines that use their ignition boxes.

The flat spot on the very top of the pointer is where you want to read the timing number at. If I understand you correctly "B" on your picture is 10 degrees BTDC. If your black mark on your balancer ("B" on your picture) was at that place on the pointer when you were checking timing, I'd say your timing is about 14 degrees BTDC. Thats probably too much with your chip. Of course I cant be certain of anything since you are using that dial back light.

You have the best mail order chip out there, however I would like to see you disconnect it once, set your timing to 36 degrees, leave the spout out, and see how it runs.

As for having bends before the MAF, that can be compensated for by rotating the MAF itself. I have found 8 horsepower on the chassis dyno by doing nothing but rotating the mass air meter 90 degrees.

Andy

Get a new intake. Find a local tuner that can burn you a good custom chip on a dyno. That will tell A LOT.

THanks for letting me know about MSD...I'll return that light and get the older style ASAP.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by andy669
First of all, MSD does not recommend dial-back type timing lights when timing engines that use their ignition boxes.


Should I be pulling the chip when I check for timing??

[QUOTE]Originally posted by andy669
The flat spot on the very top of the pointer is where you want to read the timing number at. If I understand you correctly "B" on your picture is 10 degrees BTDC. If your black mark on your balancer ("B" on your picture) was at that place on the pointer when you were checking timing, I'd say your timing is about 14 degrees BTDC. Thats probably too much with your chip. Of course I cant be certain of anything since you are using that dial back light.

You have the best mail order chip out there, however I would like to see you disconnect it once, set your timing to 36 degrees, leave the spout out, and see how it runs.


NEver knew that...thanks for the info!! When you say rotate 90, do you mean rotate the MAF towards the block?

Quote:

Originally posted by andy669 As for having bends before the MAF, that can be compensated for by rotating the MAF itself. I have found 8 horsepower on the chassis dyno by doing nothing but rotating the mass air meter 90 degrees. Andy

Yes, I understand that but it won't be cheap...here's some estimates that I put together quickly:

New lower intake and upper plenum - $600 (appx)
Tow to the nearest dyno facility in Conneticut - $250
Custom burned chip - ($200 - appx)
Dyno pulls ($100??)

What do you expect for results if I dump another grand into this car? 11's???

By the way guys...the lower intake that's on my car is part number 3884. Topping this off is a Edelbrock Performer plenum. Check out this link: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

- This link tells me that this intake I have on my car sucks, and I should replace it with pt # 3886.....do you agree?


Jay

[QUOTE]Originally posted by andy669 If I understand you correctly "B" on your picture is 10 degrees BTDC.

I just looked under there after cleaning the engine and the mark is at the 0 degree line on the dampner.

If your car runs right, and it hooks up. 11.s

Hooks great..and that's with the footbrake. Haven't used the tbrake yet. Pretty consistent 1.6 60-ft times too. Just dies after the 80ft mark. I wonder if this lower intake is killing me??