new parts are in!

green94droptop · 07-26-2001, 07:53 AM

Hey guys, It's been a while...just got my car back a week ago from the body shop.

Anywho, I just got my suspension parts in. Granetelli springs, MAC C/C plates and offset steering rack bushing.

Should I let the alignment shop do the C/C plates or can I tackle them on my own? They said in the instructions that I may have a hood clearance problem (will touch the inner liner of the hood). Do you guys have the problem?

Any tips on quickly taking out and removing the coil springs?

Thanks in advance.

------------------
Green '94 GT conv. -- K&N filter charger, FMS 9mm wires, Accel hipo cap/rotor, 180* thermo, 14* timing, PRO 5.0, off road H-pipe in front of 2 chamber flow's, Steeda subframe connectors w/ crossbrace, stock, stock, stock, yeah and that's stock too.

My 'Stang

dinomite · 07-26-2001, 09:32 AM

the rear springs are nothing, jack up lower control arm, unbolt, and lower jack until no presure, switch springs and reverse. now on the front, you *need* a spring compressor. getting the fronts out is easy, you have to take off the spindle, but then to get the acutal spring out, i tied a chain around a couple coils, then through the control arm, so that it couldn't come flying of. then lower your jack, the spring shouldn't pop out until you pull it out with, say, a jack handle, at which point it will violently shoot out, but thats why we have the chain, eh?

green94droptop · 07-26-2001, 11:52 AM

HOLLY POOP! That sounds dangerous...

------------------
Green '94 GT conv. -- K&N filter charger, FMS 9mm wires, Accel hipo cap/rotor, 180* thermo, 14* timing, PRO 5.0, off road H-pipe in front of 2 chamber flow's, Steeda subframe connectors w/ crossbrace, stock, stock, stock, yeah and that's stock too.

My 'Stang

jimberg · 07-26-2001, 12:31 PM

Stand behind a garbabe can while wearing a motorcycle helmet, or you can also rent an armored car and stick a pole out of one of the gun ports to pry the spring loose.

Seriously, though, it can go flying if you aren't careful. You're pretty safe if you just stand toward the front of the car when you pop it loose. The easiest and safest way is to get a spring compressor.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

MiracleMax · 07-26-2001, 06:41 PM

Should I let the alignment shop do the C/C plates or can I tackle them on my own?

Pretty easy stuff, with a jack, some jackstands, drill, and some hand tools no problemo

They said in the instructions that I may have a hood clearance problem (will touch the inner liner of the hood). Do you guys have the problem?

did they include some extra washers to go between the strut and the C/C plate? I know the hotchkiss kit had some extra washers to adjust the clearence between the top of the strut and the hood.

Any tips on quickly taking out and removing the coil springs?

The back is a piece of cake, I did things the lazy way up front, I removed the bolt that secures the top of the strut, with a jack on the lower control arm, then lowered the control arm from the front of the car. With the arm completely lowered I pulled the spring out. My car had motorsports springs, and I don't know how much shorter they are, but with the strut out and the arms completely lowered there was little or no tension on the springs.

07-26-2001, 07:53 AM	#1
green94droptop Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Central FL Posts: 59	new parts are in! Hey guys, It's been a while...just got my car back a week ago from the body shop. Anywho, I just got my suspension parts in. Granetelli springs, MAC C/C plates and offset steering rack bushing. Should I let the alignment shop do the C/C plates or can I tackle them on my own? They said in the instructions that I may have a hood clearance problem (will touch the inner liner of the hood). Do you guys have the problem? Any tips on quickly taking out and removing the coil springs? Thanks in advance. ------------------ Green '94 GT conv. -- K&N filter charger, FMS 9mm wires, Accel hipo cap/rotor, 180* thermo, 14* timing, PRO 5.0, off road H-pipe in front of 2 chamber flow's, Steeda subframe connectors w/ crossbrace, stock, stock, stock, yeah and that's stock too. My 'Stang

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07-26-2001, 09:32 AM	#2
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	the rear springs are nothing, jack up lower control arm, unbolt, and lower jack until no presure, switch springs and reverse. now on the front, you need a spring compressor. getting the fronts out is easy, you have to take off the spindle, but then to get the acutal spring out, i tied a chain around a couple coils, then through the control arm, so that it couldn't come flying of. then lower your jack, the spring shouldn't pop out until you pull it out with, say, a jack handle, at which point it will violently shoot out, but thats why we have the chain, eh?

07-26-2001, 11:52 AM	#3
green94droptop Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Central FL Posts: 59	HOLLY POOP! That sounds dangerous... ------------------ Green '94 GT conv. -- K&N filter charger, FMS 9mm wires, Accel hipo cap/rotor, 180* thermo, 14* timing, PRO 5.0, off road H-pipe in front of 2 chamber flow's, Steeda subframe connectors w/ crossbrace, stock, stock, stock, yeah and that's stock too. My 'Stang

07-26-2001, 12:31 PM	#4
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Stand behind a garbabe can while wearing a motorcycle helmet, or you can also rent an armored car and stick a pole out of one of the gun ports to pry the spring loose. Seriously, though, it can go flying if you aren't careful. You're pretty safe if you just stand toward the front of the car when you pop it loose. The easiest and safest way is to get a spring compressor. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

07-26-2001, 06:41 PM	#5
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	Should I let the alignment shop do the C/C plates or can I tackle them on my own? Pretty easy stuff, with a jack, some jackstands, drill, and some hand tools no problemo They said in the instructions that I may have a hood clearance problem (will touch the inner liner of the hood). Do you guys have the problem? did they include some extra washers to go between the strut and the C/C plate? I know the hotchkiss kit had some extra washers to adjust the clearence between the top of the strut and the hood. Any tips on quickly taking out and removing the coil springs? The back is a piece of cake, I did things the lazy way up front, I removed the bolt that secures the top of the strut, with a jack on the lower control arm, then lowered the control arm from the front of the car. With the arm completely lowered I pulled the spring out. My car had motorsports springs, and I don't know how much shorter they are, but with the strut out and the arms completely lowered there was little or no tension on the springs.