Nitrous kit ready to go?

[RPM427]

Is there anything else HIGHLY suggested I buy to run with my TNT wet 150 shot, purge kit, and fuel pump. Is there anything that I kinda have to get before installing this? do I need to upgrade my ignition or get an activation window switch. Is it a big "no-no" to run it without interior guages?

[explicitone]

I would get bottle heater, fuel press. gauge, nitr. press. gauge

[RPM427]

Who makes a bottle heater that is thermostatically controlled?

I am also getting a switch panel, or making one, that fits in the ashtray and controls the remote valve opener, heater, master arm, and purge.

The TNT kit comes with a bottle pressure guage, if I mount it to the bottle, where can I attach the sender for the interior guage?

[Oldschoolpony]

Also, low fuel pressure cut off switch. And timimg retard box. Ive been told, for every 50 hp of NOS, you want to drop 2 deg. timming. Attach the timming box to the nos solenoid that way when the nos is off, the car will run normally.

[RPM427]

I am problably getting the MSD digital 6 igntion, it has a timing retard and rev limiter (not with pils, but an adjustable dail).

Many people say that putting the timing back to 10 deg BTDC will be enough.

[Oldschoolpony]

I think 10 deg. is a little much, more like 6. Keeps an eye on the plugs. get a run in and check the plugs. If their peppered, retard a little more

[Mustang_GT_90]

I'm running a 125 shot of Nitrous Works on my stock 90 GT.
Here's what I did:

-MSD Window Switch off ebay turns nitrous on at 3000 cuts it out at 6000 just in case I miss a gear

-Definately need a bottle pressure gauge just in case you don't have one allready pressure to nitrous is key

-NOS bottle warmer, not a must if it's always warm where you are but the first day I took mine to the track the bottle was to cold to get pressure, 500 PSI, and it ran like $hit

-I'm running 12 degrees of timing with Autollight 24 plugs gapped at .035 and have absolutlely no problem with detonation, only change to factory ignition is a set of Accell Wires and an MSD coil(coil might help I allready had one, you need a strong enough ignition so the nitrous doesn't blow out the spark)

-I made a button setup for my ashtray kind of like the painless wiring one they're selling for mustangs now, two lighted switches one for bottle heater one for arming, the lights really help at night

-Make sure to replace you're fuel filter just in case you don't want to run out of fuel.

Stuff that would be nice
-Fuel pressure gauge would be nice, I'm working on trying to find an electronic one to put inside that I can actually afford

-Purge valve, I've got one but can't find a good way to mount it and stuff with my kit so I've left it off for now, it's pretty much for consistancy from what I've been told, that and it looks cool

-MSD box, I wouldn't worry about a retard function those boxes are expensive. I'd just get a normal 6AL and you should be able to run the same timing as me if you've got enough fuel.

I've yet to have a chance to actually make a pass on the 125 shot but I made a bunch of passes on an 80 shot my quickest being 13 flat on cheater slicks and the 125 seems to pull twice as hard as the 80. It's fun to hit the button, I was nervous the first time but now it's no big deal. You'll be fine, most of the horror stories about nitrous seem to be coming from people who are doing crazy stuff.

[Agent_4573]

what exactly are cheater slicks?

[Oldschoolpony]

Another needed item. Low fuel pressure cut off. ( didnt read if it was a dry kit. ) i still think a dry one needs it on main fuel, but not sure

[RPM427]

cheater slicks are the D.O.T. approved M/T E.T. street tires. They are bassically slicks with very small "treads" cut in them. After a few burnouts, the treads are gone.

[Agent_4573]

So those are considered cheater slicks... ok.

[explicitone]

I would strart low on the timing like at 6 and read the plugs and work your why up on the timing but I would not go over the stock 10 the extra couple of horses you might get from the 12 timing is not worth taking a chance and blowing something up just play it safe and have fun unless you have money to fix the motor should something go wrong or you racing in a class of any sort then try to get what you cant out of it . but for the street and test and tune nights I would play it on the safe side

[RPM427]

I think I'm going to get the MSD digital 6 with the timing retard for saftey's sake. I will be running Sunoco 94 BTW.