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06-30-2001, 08:40 PM | #1 |
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To Nitrous or not to nitrous...that's the ?
? for all you blower and nitrous fans. I've always planned on getting a blower, but lately I've been reading about and listening to some of you juice heads . I'm confused now...I know n20 is the cheaper of the 2, but is n20 as safe as a blower? Which n2o set up would work w/ my combo - check out my current mods and know I'll be upgrading to 1.6 alum rr's and upper/lower rear ctrl arms before taking the power adder step. I'd like to cut a good second off my 1/4 (possibly see 10's w/ a good hook and nice slicks). Thanks in advance!
------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113) |
07-01-2001, 12:12 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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I have been running my dry NOS kit for two years with not a single problem. I only spray 100 hp, so I run premium gas and never even retard the timing from 16 degrees.
I trap 110-111 on motor and 120-122 on the spray. 122 is good enough for a high, high 10 on slicks and a wicked 60 ft. |
07-02-2001, 06:41 PM | #3 |
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Thanks exgmguy. High 10's on the bottle sound good to me . I was thinking of running 125 or 150, would that be OK? Not to sound completely n20 naive, but how does it work, when does it work (does the bottle spray automatically at a certain RPM? Do you hit a switch, do you have to hold it in/engage it and switch it off/disengage it? Anyone else???
------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113) |
07-02-2001, 07:06 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
Posts: 1,202
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On a EFI they hook up to your throttle position sensor you need to arm it frist them!!! I hope to get them very soon to mabe in 2 weeks 150HP is the max on a Stock Block Get a DRY KIT
------------------ 1988 LX 5.0 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.90@100.2 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 2.73 Stock Gears (New Gears Are in my house3.55), World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Summit Adjustable Cluch Quadrant & Cable, Alumminum Driveshaft, Flaming River Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks Engine: Steal Mounts, Ram air, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\ba |
07-04-2001, 09:27 PM | #5 |
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I don't think I'd go anything over 150 anyway. Why a dry kit? Nitrous Works, NOS, Nitrous Express? How would I operate it while driving - engage/disengage it...and when? Would 125/150 get me in the low 11's, possibly high 10's? Stangrunner - which kit are you getting?
------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113) |
07-04-2001, 10:05 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: morristown, tn, usa
Posts: 4
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Hey Man, You should definetly put the nitrous on your mustang. There is both a wet shot and a dry shot kit. Neither one is really better than the other. The dry kits are better for stock vehicles. The wet kits are usually better for the cars that have more modifications. On the dry kits you get your extra fuel through the injectors.. which means if you dont use bigs injectors you will most likely lean out and blow a head gasket or even worse. I've been there and done that. If your gonna run a 150 dry shot then i would use 36lb injectors. You can go more than 150 on the wet kits. We run 175 shot on my dads 92 and it takes it fine. We are fixin to go to 200. As long as you keep plenty of fuel you'll be okay. Remember though stock 302 blocks only handle around 600hp max and start giving up.
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