Nitrous Question
 

I am looking into Nitrous for a 5.0. What is better for someone that has never used Nitrous before Dry or Wet, and why?

Thanks

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-Brent "BrentK7" Keltner
BrentK7@Gamershome.com
ICQ# 5413021
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Stick to a dry system. They're much safer and easier to use.

If the rest of the engine is mostly stock, don't use anything above a 75-shot, or you risk damaging things.

I am also currently searching for a nitrous kit and have questions as to go with a wet or a dry kit. At the Norwalk FFW last weekend I was talking to the guy's at the Compucar booth as to which was better. They told me that a wet kit is the only way to go.
I did ask about fuel puddling in the upper intake and I was told (keep in mind this was from folks that work for Compucar) that the fuel puddling problem is a myth that the people at NOS came up with to sell more dry kits. They told me that if your use a WOT switch that puddling will not be a factor. I understand that it would be beneficial to have nitrous and fuel being added but I just don't know! I have noticed that most of the EFI kits available are wet kits. I am now leaning toward the NOS big shot plate system that mounts between the upper and lower intake (this should avoid the puddling problem???) Good luck in your research and I will post anything that I find out.

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91 Coupe with fresh rebuild. Running Stage 2 Avenger heads (51cc chambers), Stage 2 cam (.549, .566)1.7 Crane Gold Race rockers, Port matched GT-40 upper & lower, 75mm Bullet MAF, 65mm Accufab TB, MSD 6AL, Long Tubes through off road and Dynomax muffs. Stock T-5 and 3.73 gears. Big Blue Bottle on it's way!!!
Best time so far = 60'=2.021, 1/8=8.366 at 86.37 mph and the 1/4 was 12.926 at 108.94mph.

I'm highly confused myself - but, I'd have to say that I've heard a dry kit is the way to go for a frst time n2o user, about 90% of the time. If I'm running 12.1-12.2 now N/A, what will I be capable of w/ a 125 or 150 shot? I'm thinking low 11's (can't wait).

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

I bought a stage 2 NOS dry kit. I reseached it and like bada$$lx said the dry kit seems to be the best kit for first time users. I'll keep you posted on how mine works once I've have it in.


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95gt 80k, MSD 6AL, MSD coil, pulleys, fpr, cold air kit, off road h-pipe, flowmasters, 3.73, fluidampener, 9mm wires, mega bite jr lowers, kennybrown subframe connectors, edelbrock performer intake, 70mm TB, Aluminum Driveshaft, Tri-Ax shifter.

Ok thanks, but i have another question, why do ppl call it N2O, it is actually NO2, Nitrous Oxide. N2O would mean 2Nitrogen and 1Oxygen.

Just wondering.


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-Brent "BrentK7" Keltner
BrentK7@Gamershome.com
ICQ# 5413021
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He's right. N2O is Nitrogen Monoxide.

There isnt much risk of a backfire unless you kill your engine and keep spraying fuel into the intake. A WOT switch pretty much prevents that and I installed an extra safety feature of a RPM window switch also. Ive hit the fuel to test the system with no problems. Explosions happen with BIG 500hp systems and they kill the engine and it contintues to puddle fuel in the intake and BAM!

Drys kits are nice, just make sure you have plenty of fuel. They both work great.

You can use upto 150hp safely on a stock motor if not more.

Adding heads/cam/exhaust "modding" your car isnt going to make it anymore resistant to N20. The 5.0 bottom end is strong. Retard your timing, regap your plugs, make sure you have a WOT switch, and you have plenty of fuel and you'll have lots of fun with the n20.

Skyler

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-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
1.69 60'

Can we all give a warm WP welcome to the two chemists we have with us today! <applause>
Yes, you're right, our bad.

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

Chemist, haha, i just remember that from 7th grade. Thanks for the help all.

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-Brent "BrentK7" Keltner
BrentK7@Gamershome.com
ICQ# 5413021
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Actually, N2O is the correct chemical formula for Nitrous Oxide (aka Dinotrogen Monoxide). Better get back to chemistry class, boys. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif