Another heat issue and it is 10degrees

drtbiker · 01-14-2003, 01:52 PM

Ok guys,
you've probally heard about this situation plenty of times. I am affraid that this problem may cause long term problems. I have a 87 5.0 with sd, Ever since i did a motor swap i have tried everything to get the heat to work, the problem is i dont think the motor is producing enough heat to even make the motor run with out staying in open loop, the motor temp has not ever exceeded 140, and there is not even warm air blowing out of the vents, so far i have tried 195 thermo, also i replaced the fan clutch a while back and it seems like it is staying on could this be my problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Soon i think i am just going to buy an electric fan that i can turn on and off, The car always ran cold even with the orignal motor but now it is really to cold

thanks
raini

WADS56 · 01-14-2003, 02:02 PM

It sounds like coolent isn't flowing through the heater core. Even if your car only reaches 140deg it should be warm, or atleast feel a difference from cold start up. If it worked befor the motor swap chances are that you did something wrong.

To change the subject... in your sig you say "don do burnouts in reverse because it is expensive" I can agree with that from experience

sn95gt19 · 01-14-2003, 02:25 PM

under your hood there is a little vaccum t with somekind of round thing on it. it controls the flap in the heater box. maybe that went bad and it isnt letting the air blow through the heater core and its just blowing straight from the outside in.

crazypete · 01-14-2003, 03:11 PM

Here's the "crazy pete answer":

I took the entire heater duct assembly and fan and gave it a mighty tug and it's now up in my attic. I got a 130cfm (that's a whole lot!) 120mm ys-tech pc fan from 1coolpc.com (nice 12 volt , less than 1 amp). I went to where the old a/c drain tube would come out behind the headers and attached the fan over the 60mm hole in the firewall on the inside, ran a 2 inch dryer hose (painted black) from the outside of the firewall to the back of the header collector and wired up a switch. This thing absolutely floods the compartment with hot air like you wouldn't believe! No it doesnt smell like smoke or exhaust and it's relatively quiet and weighs at most 1 pound compared to the 100 pounds of crap that was in there before.

Yeah!

drtbiker · 01-15-2003, 12:08 AM

yeah well guys now get this ****... your really gonna love this one
so i decied to get on it a few times figureing that i had been driving for about 15min, and then i am driving i go to punch it and the darn thing falls on top of its self boggs like krazy, so take it home nice and easy, i pop the hood and the darn thing is overheating, i have never seen anything like this.. there most be a hose cloged somewhere.. but i checked them all this problem is drving me insane. so now i have an overheating car with no heat..... aint that somthin

any more suggestions are welcomed tommarows my day off so ill check it out tommarow
raini

sn95gt19 · 01-15-2003, 12:47 AM

head gasket, had that problem with my g-friends 3.8 t bird. the darn thing had no heat at all, i saw antifreeze dripping from the head. i changed the head gasket and bam, I HAD HEAT. dont know why it didnt have heat but it didnt.

HotRoddin · 01-15-2003, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by drtbiker
any more suggestions are welcomed tommarows my day off so ill check it out tommarow
raini

When you did your motor swap, did you go from an old vbelt to a serpentine belt ? If you did you probably have the wrong water pump ... serpentine belts turn the water pump the opposite direction of the old system .. so if you have an older model water pump on a modern system, it may be turing backwards and it won't pump that way.

88workcar · 01-15-2003, 07:32 AM

Raini,

I hate to see a post from you, you have the worst luck. My car has no fans at all. None, notta, zip. I have a 4 core autozone radiator, 180 stat, and run one line up on the guage. I can run 5-6 NOS passes in a row with no heating problems.

Are your heater lines flowing? I remember that there is a little restrictor somewhere in the system, that may have plugged up.
Do you have water in the oil? Does it run bad at all?

I will be installing a removable heater today. I'll let you know how it goes.

crazypete, get us some pics of the set up.

MEDIK418 · 01-15-2003, 09:00 AM

You're going to think this is a stoopid question but, did you re-check the antifreeze level after running the engine. It sounds like there isn't enough coolant in the system. Everything you describe can be caused by this very thing. I know there's other things that can do this but just a thought!!!

drtbiker · 01-15-2003, 10:53 AM

well, its not a head gasket and it isnt the water pump running the wrong way, i have changed the water pump already, when i did the swap, i think one of the hoses is clogged by the sensor for the stock gauge, because the stock gauge will usually read under the 135temp or what ever the lowest is
then i will jump back up to 145, then i give it a little gas and the temp goes DOWN! thats why i feel the water/antifreeze flows out of the heater core and tube that goes to it but it does not flow in. Is this possiable? I am at school right now but ill fill you guys in after i work in the cold

thanks again guys

88workcar your defently right, i could proablly take the fan out and just have
a radiator, one trip to indiana, I had the ac blasting in dead stop traffic for about 90min and the temp never rose above 160
hey you live in Louisiana(sp) right???
i might go out there the first week of march

sn95gt19 · 01-15-2003, 11:35 AM

if the temp goes down when you rev it up, you most likely just need to add more water or antifreeze.

drtbiker · 01-15-2003, 12:55 PM

i dont think the fluid is low but ill check that when i get home today after school. When i oringnaly filled up the radiator, I filled it up waited until it went down. Then filled it up again. Started it ranfor like 2min, then filled it drove it around for a while then came and filled it again. But i didnt check it after that so it could be true, but would that cause the motor to run really cold and have no heat?

later

01-15-2003, 01:11 PM

I know there is a probably a new one in there...but maybe the thermostat is stuck closed. You never know, you may have gotten a bad one.

drtbiker · 01-15-2003, 02:11 PM

well guys, there was a kink, in the hose that goes to the heater core, the heater core was not even warm. afterdriving it from school. well push goes to shove after the kink was out and the water started to flow. instently i had heat coming out of the vents. I then checked the anitfreeze again and it was down an half of quart... So i learned another lesson, boy do i hate these dumb but not noticeable problems

thanks for all the help guys!

drtbiker · 01-15-2003, 09:28 PM

well guys now i have another problem, guess what i have a cracked radiator, it looks like it is leaking where the fins meet the side. Just when i think i have things straightened out i have another problem arise. Any suggestions.... 88workcar how much did u pay from autozone for the three core?

raini

88workcar · 01-16-2003, 12:24 AM

$130.00 Are you tight with any one there?

drtbiker · 01-16-2003, 10:35 AM

na i use to know someone there but not really anymore, i just figure if the price is right and it works good ill go for it.

01-14-2003, 01:52 PM	#1
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	Another heat issue and it is 10degrees Ok guys, you've probally heard about this situation plenty of times. I am affraid that this problem may cause long term problems. I have a 87 5.0 with sd, Ever since i did a motor swap i have tried everything to get the heat to work, the problem is i dont think the motor is producing enough heat to even make the motor run with out staying in open loop, the motor temp has not ever exceeded 140, and there is not even warm air blowing out of the vents, so far i have tried 195 thermo, also i replaced the fan clutch a while back and it seems like it is staying on could this be my problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Soon i think i am just going to buy an electric fan that i can turn on and off, The car always ran cold even with the orignal motor but now it is really to cold thanks raini __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

01-14-2003, 02:02 PM	#2
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	It sounds like coolent isn't flowing through the heater core. Even if your car only reaches 140deg it should be warm, or atleast feel a difference from cold start up. If it worked befor the motor swap chances are that you did something wrong. To change the subject... in your sig you say "don do burnouts in reverse because it is expensive" I can agree with that from experience __________________ 79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49

01-14-2003, 02:25 PM	#3
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	under your hood there is a little vaccum t with somekind of round thing on it. it controls the flap in the heater box. maybe that went bad and it isnt letting the air blow through the heater core and its just blowing straight from the outside in. __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-14-2003, 03:11 PM	#4
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Here's the "crazy pete answer": I took the entire heater duct assembly and fan and gave it a mighty tug and it's now up in my attic. I got a 130cfm (that's a whole lot!) 120mm ys-tech pc fan from 1coolpc.com (nice 12 volt , less than 1 amp). I went to where the old a/c drain tube would come out behind the headers and attached the fan over the 60mm hole in the firewall on the inside, ran a 2 inch dryer hose (painted black) from the outside of the firewall to the back of the header collector and wired up a switch. This thing absolutely floods the compartment with hot air like you wouldn't believe! No it doesnt smell like smoke or exhaust and it's relatively quiet and weighs at most 1 pound compared to the 100 pounds of crap that was in there before. Yeah! __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

01-15-2003, 12:08 AM	#5
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	yeah well guys now get this ****... your really gonna love this one so i decied to get on it a few times figureing that i had been driving for about 15min, and then i am driving i go to punch it and the darn thing falls on top of its self boggs like krazy, so take it home nice and easy, i pop the hood and the darn thing is overheating, i have never seen anything like this.. there most be a hose cloged somewhere.. but i checked them all this problem is drving me insane. so now i have an overheating car with no heat..... aint that somthin any more suggestions are welcomed tommarows my day off so ill check it out tommarow raini __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

01-15-2003, 12:47 AM	#6
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	head gasket, had that problem with my g-friends 3.8 t bird. the darn thing had no heat at all, i saw antifreeze dripping from the head. i changed the head gasket and bam, I HAD HEAT. dont know why it didnt have heat but it didnt. __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-15-2003, 07:32 AM	#8
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	Raini, I hate to see a post from you, you have the worst luck. My car has no fans at all. None, notta, zip. I have a 4 core autozone radiator, 180 stat, and run one line up on the guage. I can run 5-6 NOS passes in a row with no heating problems. Are your heater lines flowing? I remember that there is a little restrictor somewhere in the system, that may have plugged up. Do you have water in the oil? Does it run bad at all? I will be installing a removable heater today. I'll let you know how it goes. crazypete, get us some pics of the set up. __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

01-15-2003, 09:00 AM	#9
MEDIK418 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA Posts: 780	You're going to think this is a stoopid question but, did you re-check the antifreeze level after running the engine. It sounds like there isn't enough coolant in the system. Everything you describe can be caused by this very thing. I know there's other things that can do this but just a thought!!! __________________ 1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.

01-15-2003, 10:53 AM	#10
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	well, its not a head gasket and it isnt the water pump running the wrong way, i have changed the water pump already, when i did the swap, i think one of the hoses is clogged by the sensor for the stock gauge, because the stock gauge will usually read under the 135temp or what ever the lowest is then i will jump back up to 145, then i give it a little gas and the temp goes DOWN! thats why i feel the water/antifreeze flows out of the heater core and tube that goes to it but it does not flow in. Is this possiable? I am at school right now but ill fill you guys in after i work in the cold thanks again guys 88workcar your defently right, i could proablly take the fan out and just have a radiator, one trip to indiana, I had the ac blasting in dead stop traffic for about 90min and the temp never rose above 160 hey you live in Louisiana(sp) right??? i might go out there the first week of march __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

01-15-2003, 11:35 AM	#11
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	if the temp goes down when you rev it up, you most likely just need to add more water or antifreeze. __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-15-2003, 12:55 PM	#12
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	i dont think the fluid is low but ill check that when i get home today after school. When i oringnaly filled up the radiator, I filled it up waited until it went down. Then filled it up again. Started it ranfor like 2min, then filled it drove it around for a while then came and filled it again. But i didnt check it after that so it could be true, but would that cause the motor to run really cold and have no heat? later __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

01-15-2003, 01:11 PM	#13
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	thermostat I know there is a probably a new one in there...but maybe the thermostat is stuck closed. You never know, you may have gotten a bad one.

01-15-2003, 02:11 PM	#14
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	well guys, there was a kink, in the hose that goes to the heater core, the heater core was not even warm. afterdriving it from school. well push goes to shove after the kink was out and the water started to flow. instently i had heat coming out of the vents. I then checked the anitfreeze again and it was down an half of quart... So i learned another lesson, boy do i hate these dumb but not noticeable problems thanks for all the help guys! __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

01-15-2003, 09:28 PM	#15
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	well guys now i have another problem, guess what i have a cracked radiator, it looks like it is leaking where the fins meet the side. Just when i think i have things straightened out i have another problem arise. Any suggestions.... 88workcar how much did u pay from autozone for the three core? raini __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

01-16-2003, 12:24 AM	#16
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	$130.00 Are you tight with any one there? __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

01-16-2003, 10:35 AM	#17
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	na i use to know someone there but not really anymore, i just figure if the price is right and it works good ill go for it. __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

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