Crossroads

[UglyFast88]

Hey all, this will either turn into a decent post, or I'll get one or two flames, and be closed.

Situation: '88LX 5.0 Hatchback

Recent history: Engine torn apart, replaced all seals, newer stock heads, left old main bearings in, with minimal brass showing, (from remnants of coolant leak) stock springs, lifters, and everything else inside. H2O pump, oil pump, etc... Got new motorsport clutch, radiator.
Car has: Shorty headers, H pipe, and Flowmasters, Pullies, Moroso filter kit, and 135,000 miles. It pulls strong, and runs great. No leakin on my floor since the rebuild in April.

Planned changes: Explorer intakes (upper & lower) (what else do I need for this? I also have the new throttle body)

Car needs: Suspension, (it floats on good dips to the bottom of the shocks) Quadrant, and fuel pump.

Funds: The financial situation says spend small amounts of money at a time.

Hopes for the car: Mild improvements over stock. It'll never be supercharged, or sprayed, or really even raced. I'm more into road racing than straight line drags. Car is a weekend warrior, not a daily driver, and rarely if ever, hits the highway. I like the car for my sh*t's and giggles, not the guys' next to me.

The questions:

1. Should I leave the car Speed Density?
2. Which gear set- 3.73's, 4.10's, or 4.30's?
3. Should I tear the car apart this winter and replace the main bearings?
4. What's a good inexpensive (i know...) suspension setup for road running?
5. Running 20w-50 Valvoline VR1 right now. Yes? No?
6. Will a BBK cold air kit really do anything for me since I'm not like "hey- I picked up another 10th..."
5. Should I do the rear disc brake swap?

I think that's it for now, I may think of something else, I'm just in a lull from hearing the same ideas from the guys around here, and I'm looking for some other opinions.

Thanx

[82 GT]

I can offer a few opinions about some of your questions.
First, take every oportunity to upgrade the rear brakes to disks.
I would also go with the 3:73 gears with the 5 speed and since you don't seem to be power hungry, you could do without the cold air intake and mass air conversion.
I would have replaced the bearings when I had it all torn apart the first time.
Next, maybe you could buy an "E" cam, lifters and springs.
Why the GT-40P heads?
As far as suspension, I have no idea. I would ask Druidis.

[UglyFast88]

Yeah, should have replaced the bearings, but the original plan, (which I forgot to mention) was to run this engine until winter, and build a blown beast over the cold months. However, construction equipment sales are a little slow right now, and I don't expect to see the $ 6,000 I was counting on. Priorities, priorities...

Anyway, you only reccomend the 3.55's? running a lot of curves and turns, will I really feel a difference? I know I will with the 4.30's, since I'll be running a majority in the lower gears(1-3)?

GT40-P heads are popular around here, with explorer intakes. Makes great power, too. I think guys around here are running the B cam, though (?) could be wrong, I'll have to check tomorrow night.

[82 GT]

Actually, I recommended the 3:73 gears. I think the 4:30 would be a tad too much. First gear would be completely useless with a 4:30 gear and traction would become a major issue. If you had an automatic then I would say either 4:10 or 4:30.
I just think 4:30 is a little too much for what you want to do right now. It's just my opinion.
The "B" cam is another good cam. A little more radical but a good cam. I'm not positive but I think speed density would have a problem with the "B" cam. I not sure what all you "can get away with" in terms of mods with speed density though.
Another good person to talk to is 88 workcar or Unit
Mach 1 is another good person to ask.
Mach, if you read this, I am being sincere with that remark..ok?
I woud definatly ask Druidis about suspension.
I am sure he will recommend subframes, roll cage and caster/camber plates for road racing.
I hope this helps.

[Mach 1]

Well, you have to do what YOU want to the car, but Ill throw my .02 cents in.

I like and strongly recommend mass air conversion, especially if you want to play with cam changes and tuning.
Its simply superior to speed density, although youll hear differing opinions about that here.

I agree with 82GT about the 3.73 gear ratio. Its a good all around choice for a 5 speed.

Replacing the bearings is a gamble. They might last a long time, they might spin tomorrow. Your gonna have to make the call on that one, however if you know they are damaged, you probably should replace them as soon as possible.

As far as suspension, get welded in subframe connectors as a minimum if you dont have them already. After that, it all depends on how much coin you want to drop, which doesnt sound like much, so I wouldnt worry about it that much. I do like aftermarket lower rear control arms after the subframe connectors.

I dont recommend 20w-50 eithier. get the sludge out of there and get some oil that can flow in there. If you are having low oil pressure problems with your high mileage, a higher weight might help some, but there is really no reason to run it. Use the oil recommended in your owners manual, which is 10w-30 for your engine.

Save your coin on the BBK cold air kit. It doenst fit well, the chrome flakes off easily, and its more for looks than anything. The factory setup with a k&N panel filter is just as good. Or get the moroso kit. better than the BBK and cheaper.

Rear disc brakes are nice to have, but I think you could concentrate your performance dollar elsewhere for better results. My stang stops fine with the rear drums. Always has and always will. I dont road race though, which you mentioned you are interested in, so it might be something for you.

[UglyFast88]

Thanks everyone, for the great info so far. Mach- I've got the Moroso kit now, and are wondering when I put in my new Explorer upper & lower intake, along with the new throttle body, if it'll go together fine. The accordian tube looks restrictive. Then again, it may be the stock tube? What about attaching the filter directly to the throttle body like Stang Runner? S-R? Thoughts?

I'm a little surprised by the choice in gears, (I'll get out of corners at a good RPM?) but I'll probably take your advice there. You all have more experience with this car than I do, and it'll be the first gear change I've ever had to do. (I'm not even thinking about doing that one myself...)

Bearings? I think what I'll do is run it for now, and if it blows up, buy a 60,000 or so mile Explorer motor with the GT40P heads on it, and just "rebuild." I can get the motor, for $700.- around here, and sell the intakes and TB for $200, and have a new low-mileage block and P heads for $500.- with good rings and everything else. Not bad at all.

You're running 20W50? <SMACK>

Yeah, I know it's sludge, but it's been so damn hot around here, the 10W30 coming out of my car was like Dasani, and thought I needed a little more. I'm averaging about 500-1000 miles per change, so It'll be due in another couple weeks, and I'll probably put 10w30 back in.

Reminds me of my neighbor who just changed oil in his 84 GT, put in 20w50, Motor honey, Restore, and Chevron fuel system cleaner in one fell swoop. Smack him? He'll be reading this...

Craig, you're an idiot.

Thanks again for your help!

[Mach 1]

the accordian tube isnt part of the moroso kit. The moroso kit is for mass air cars. You have the stock tube sounds like. With speed density, you can put the filter on the end of the TB, but you might have hood clearance problems.

[srv1]

hey UGLYFAST, i am in the same boat as you. i am not much for straight line racing(but i do like it sometimes ). from my experience and anyone who really hugs the curves will tell you this:

1. gear ratio for you that would be best is 3.55's, but 3.73's are an option, but no higher! will you feel the difference? HELL YES! 3.55 is a perfect gear for a 5 speed for SCCA if that is what you like to do. 3.73's are a little steeper, but you will do fine either way.
2. forget about the motor until last. you 5.0 has enough ponies on the track. you would be amazed what a stock 5.0 can do. put your money in your suspension and brakes first. dont be backwards and make your car a go fast but cant stop or take a curve car. that will just make you more frustrated in the end.
3. good suspension setup for now is replace the rear upper control arms with rubber, not poly's cause it will cause the suspension to bind and that is not what you want(thanks Darius) the lowers use a Griggs setup or Maxium Motorsports one. they can be poly's. get a Panhard kit. make sure you dont piece the suspension setup from different manufactors cause they may actually work against each other. research, and pick one like Griggs. piece that together with Griggs stuff, not Mac, BBK, Maxium Motorsports combined(get the picture?) make sure to ask the company about if your tailpiped will fit when you decide to purchase a panhard kit(that is if you want to keep the pipes)as for shocks, i am running the OEM Ford ones for now. i have no complaints really. you may want to look into Tokiko or Bilstein.
4. Definetly get sub frame connectors!! the weld in ones! not the bolt in!(junk) you will notice a difference night and day. a cage is not neccesary. but i will really tighten up the car. the side effect on that is weight. you will be a little slower.
5. you could get an aftermarket K-member, but for now just use the stock piece. get lowering springs. i have the motorsports B kit and i am satisfied. remember, too low is a no no. that stuff would be just for looks.
6. brakes. you have many options. want to stay with the four lug? then use SVO 73mm calipers up front and t-Bird or 93 Cobra rear brakes. i personally think the Cobra kit would be the way to go. then you have to spot for the new wheels. there is Baer and i do think they make a 4 and 5 lug kit, but not sure. but i would ditch the drum brakes.
7.wheels are your next bet. if you want to run with the 10 holes that is fine. research for tires you want for that rim. if you want to ditch the 10 holes, you could go 4 lug or 5 lug. 4 lug you can just bolt on. 5 lug you have to convert. get some sticky tires. something you can use for the street and the track. but dont get racing ones, cause they just wont last on the street and you will be wasting your money.
8. i wouldnt tear the motor apart unless you suspect problems. when you do put the new bearings in, this would be the time to hop up your motor a bit. i wouldnt spend alot of money in heads. get the E7's reworked with a "E" cam with 1.7 rockers. or you could go with the GT40P heads, but dont forget the special headers you have to but for them. those are the two options on head choice. get a better fuel pump. 190 should be perfect. you can keep the 19lbs injectors if you want if you go with a mild setup or you can get the 24lbs. get an ajustable fuel regulator and that way you can get a little more out of your 19's. intake would be a Cobra or and Explorer with a 65mm, NO BIGGER! remember the Explorer intake has external EGR and your stock and Cobra has internal EGR. also, you have to drill out a whole in the lower of the Explorer for the Intake air temp sensor. i dont know if you have emissions where you are but put it in consideration. Speed density should work fine with any of the options i mentioned above. i would convert to mass air. unless you are going to get serious with horsepower, the speed density will work fine. on some occasions you will have idle problems. not all speed density's do this.

hope this helped.

[UglyFast88]

Hey srv1-

Thanks! What a great post. I've been in and out of work for the last few days, and haven't been able to get online. I really appreciate the info. Very true about spending money on the engine last. I'll be taking your advice, and looking into the brakes first, then the suspension, then the engine. There are enough impatient people in our little "club" that when I need engine stuff, they'll be ready to try something else, and I'll be there to buy their motor for a few hundred bucks.

I'll keep y'all posted.

Thanks Again!