Chris is completely correct in regards to the fan shroud, and I'm speaking from experience. I spent a ton of money building up my engine (see sig.) below and becuase I went with a Black Majic electric fan for a 302 and used it on a 351 I ruined a set of bearings and wasted a lot of effort and potentially could of destroyed my engine if I raced it. I only had/have 200 miles on my engine. My temp's were exactly in your range and I went through an aweful lot to get things right (chaging thermo's did nothing in my case). A year later I'm back with a new set of bearings and I'm in the process of tuning/breaking in my engine with new bearings and cam. I cannot overestimate the importance of getting the fan and shroud. I immediately noticed the difference last year when I put the fan and shroud back on, but by then it was too late. The damage had been done. I'm not trying to tell you what to do with your vehicle, I'm just stating the facts from what I've learned. You are doing no justice to your engine by running it at temp's that exceed 225-230 degrees.

Good luck!

you don't need the shroud if you go with electric fans, do you??

From what i understand you can remove the shroud when you get an electric fan because they usually have their own little shroud. And personally i agree with coupe5oh, i talked to my engine builder and they said the cooler the engine is the more power you will make. They said that you want the water cool and the oil hot (not too hot just hot). That way the air goin in stays cooler and the oil isnt as thick. But this may all be different for EFI since mine is a carb.

All fans need a shroud in order for them to work properly. Most electric fans have one built into their design, whereas mechanical ones have a shroud that mounts separately to the radiator. If you have removed your mechanical fan, you no longer need the original shroud. That being said, if it still runs too hot with electric fans, reinstall the shroud and a mechanical fan w/o a fan clutch. Drag will exist, but not that much, and the cooling ability will be at it's best.

A fuel injected engine is designed to run at over 200 degrees. Because of the ECM, and the system design, running it colder will result in damage. There is slightly more power available in all engines by running them colder because they run richer, but running richer cuts the engines life expectancy in half. It thins the oil, and ruins the bearings and cylinder walls, advancing wear and tear. It's your money, do with it whatever you like.

:)

Take care,
-Chris

Trying to get edumacated...
 

So if your running a carbeurator, then running cooler is ok?

James

With a carburetted engine, there is no ECM that controls things, so it's not possible to deceive it into richening the mixture, however, cold still equals rich, unburned fuel, which equals thinned oil and washed down cylinder walls. If you're racing only, who cares, but if you're talking about a daily driver, then it should be a concern. A 180 t-stat in a carb'd engine is perfect. Any colder, and you risk the fuel not atomizing enough, which will eventually lead to damage. In an EFI engine, the factory t-stat is the best way to go, depending on mods, and it's usually between 190 and 195 degrees.

Take care,
-Chris

So is it true to say that the stock clutch fan (if working correctly) is a good setup??

Thanx,
LOBE
~~~~

I run a 180'F thermostat. Car runs at 182'F on the street. In traffic it will barely go up a bit higher.

At opentrack events, it runs at 205'F. Oil temps are "typically" 30'F higher (what I hear). So when you are at 225 you are ok, but at 240 your oil is definitely in the danger-zone even with synthetic. IMOHO.

With the fan shroud installed, and the radiator clean, it's great. As the radiator clogs, or with the shroud removed, it's not.

Take care,
-Chris

PKRWUD has given some damn good advice! I posted a similar topic a few months ago. Needless to say, he is the reason I pulled my 180* mr gasket stat and installed a 190* Ford stat. Part # rt-1155. My car runs around 200* regardless of outside temp, though at times it may hover the 195* range.

I used to think cooler was better until he told me otherwise, now I do the same for others in other posts, I advise against the 180* stat.

That's great to hear! Thanks for the update.

Take care,
-Chris

Good thing I read this post. I had no overflow tank on my car. I just bought it two months ago and for someone reason the guy I bought it from didnt have one on it. Anyhow, I could cruise my car around town and park it somewhere and the antifreeze would come flowing out. The stock gauge was showing the needle at two lines up from the bottom...not sure what that is. Well, I turned the ignition on after the car was off to see how high the temp gauge would show as its overflowing. The needle never went any higher and it was acting wierd....so I bought an aftermarket gauge(not installed yet). I was going to buy a 180 thermostat, but since coming here and reading this, I'll stick with the stock thermo...just replace it. And I'll change my antifreeze too. I've got an electric fan and its got a shroud. I've also got long tube step headers which when I turn the car off and open the hood you can just feel the heat pouring off of them. I'm sure that doesnt help any. Anyhow, thanks for all the info. guys.

the shroud could be the problem. Mine ran hotter with out the shroud. I run a 180 and it runs great at that temp. Other than that, it might be internal. I once had a freeze plug stuck in my engine from a previous rebuild at a machine shop. It made my temp go up at stop lights. The newer fuel injected motors usually run hotter but i found the carb motors like mine need 180. Also try flushing radiator again, maybe some gasket material got in there from changing the water pump.

bobtodd-

Replace the overflow tank, you need it. Replace the radiator cap while you're at it, too, and buy your t-stat from Ford. Trust me.

Take care,
-Chris