Does the T-5 pilot bearing need to come out for an AOD to go in?

crazypete · 11-04-2003, 09:16 PM

For the second time, I had the AOD perfectly in place, all lined up. If I pulled the left side in, the right side would pull out and same vice-versa almost as if there was a central pivot point. I've been struggling with this for 2 days so I've tried every angle, method of wiggling, pulling it in with super long bolts and I cant get both sides of it to seat.

Then I was reading and for the aod to t-5 swaps, it says install pilot bearing and I did a big OOOOOOOOH!. The front peg drum thing of the torque converter must be bashing into the pilot bearing! Am I right? If so, can this sucker be removed with the flexplate in place (I tightened it good!)? How DO you remove a pilot bearing lying under a car?

bottlebaby91 · 11-04-2003, 09:40 PM

Yes it does, you either get the correct tool, or you can do it the way I have always done it. Find a deep socket that fits tight into the bearing, but slides in and out easily.(i think a 3/8 drive 7/16 fits good) Fill the inside of the bearing and the socket with grease. Put the socket up to the bearing and you should have enough grease in on the bearing that you wont be able to push the socket in it. Get a hammer and give it a good whack. The grease will press the bearing out. You might need to try it a few times and might see that you need more grease. You might also need a short extension on the socket to keep the grease from comnig out of the socket. It can make a mess, but it will work and is cheaper than going and buying a puller.

crazypete · 11-04-2003, 10:45 PM

All my work has been in vain! :P

Can I chisel it? It seems brittle enough that my screwdriver attempts have snapped off pieces of the outermost flange.

Is the pilot bushing replacement necessary or can I go without it?

bottlebaby91 · 11-04-2003, 11:15 PM

It needs to come out and stay out. Dont chisel it.

QuantumMotorsports · 11-05-2003, 04:34 PM

Try the grease thing, i've heard it works. I've never removed a pilot bearing though. All of my tranny installs involve removing an AOD and putting a T5 in.

Dark_5.0 · 11-05-2003, 06:00 PM

I removed it with a dent puller. you know its like a big screw with a weight you slide back and forth. I just hooked the end of the screw got behind the bearing and yanked that sucker out.

crazypete · 11-06-2003, 12:21 AM

The grease trick works! ....at making a big mess!

Other than that, I got some puller thing that apparently is supposed to do the job but doesnt becuase its such a wierd design that it wont work with any of the pullers I have and it's only an attachment

I've basically resorted to bashing the thing to pieces and drilling it apart and grinding it with the grinding wheel and basically getting medival on it. I even torched it. I figured I torch everything else, why not the bearing! After 3 hours, I can safely say that there is at least 3 more hours of drilling to go. I hate it when entire projects grind to a halt because of something stupid like this.

QuantumMotorsports · 11-06-2003, 12:53 AM

before you go tearing the **** out of something, did you ever think that there's a way it was designed to be removed? Just because you don't have the right tool doesn't mean you have to **** it up to get it out. So, next time, sit back, drink a beer, and try to figure out the best way to go after it. Maybe autozone has the right tool, or somebody on here will post something that you haven't thought of. But now that you've drilled holes in the *****, there's nothing left to do but completely destroy it and make a mess.

crazypete · 11-06-2003, 08:22 AM

Naw, you can still hook the autozone hook attachment into it just fine. That's their official part. I didnt lose anything by grinding away half the bearing. It's a puller attachment but I dont know of any puller that pulls from it's centerpoint. All of the pullers push in with the center shaft. I have a crank puller, steering wheel puller and the jaws puller which just effortlessly snapped off the rim of the bearing.

Come on dude, it's not like I'm the only one who's gotten totally frustrated after spending a whole afternoon prying away at a single stripped bolt, wretched stuck O2 sensor, extracting a hopelessly rusted snapped off bolt or some other little pathetic 30 second thing that baloons into some all day project where you're just not getting anywhere.

Gonna go get a dent puller and try that later

Dark_5.0 · 11-06-2003, 09:37 AM

I was grindind and chiseling away at mine for a good 40 minuters before I tried the dent puller.

Got it out in about 20 seconds. That little bearing is made outta some hard @ss steel.

andy669 · 11-06-2003, 09:38 AM

I had one that was stuck really bad once. I tried the slide hammer method but there wasnt enough to hook to on the inside of the bearing. Someone recommended the grease trick but as stuck as this thing was, I didnt think it would work. I ended up taking the slide hammer and pulling out the caged roller bearing part. That left me with a hole that was about .930 in diameter. My neighbor who is a machinist found a fine thread tap that called for a hole about that size. We cut threads in it, then threaded a long bolt all the way through until it touched the back of the crank. He then cranked on the bolt with a huge wrench while I held the main bolt on the front of the crank.

Later that day he looked up what the mechanical advantage of that thread pitch was. It was like 14 to 1. He estimated he used 100 ft pounds of torque to get it to break loose which I figure was about right considering how hard I had to hang on to the main bolt. That thing was freakin stuck.

Andy

crazypete · 11-06-2003, 10:43 AM

I have achieved......VICTORY!

I attached a picture of the remnants for all you bearing haters out there. Afterwards, I'm gonna take it outside and jump up and down on it and yell at it and stuff.

As Andy mentioned, the slide hammer ripped the caged roller out from inside and I exclaimed muther-hugger! I then went ballistic drilling it apart and I guess all the slide hammering I did losed it and it started turning and finally got slidehammered out. What an ordeal.

Steel you say? It drilled pretty painlessly. I was assuming it was aluminum cause when I went through and hit the back of the crank, the drill didnt even scratch the crank a bit but cut through the bearing like butter. I guess the crank is super hardened steel.

crazypete · 11-06-2003, 10:49 AM

Hey! I can slide under the car much easier now with all that grease on the garage floor! Cool!

LX5liter · 11-06-2003, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by crazypete
Hey! I can slide under the car much easier now with all that grease on the garage floor! Cool!

LOL! Glad you finally got it out. It's those little PIA things that make an easy job go bad.

bottlebaby91 · 11-06-2003, 11:04 PM

The grease trick is a pain in the *** because it makes such a mess, but it has always worked for me. It is much easier for me to do the grease thing because I have a hoist to put the car on. The last time I pulled one out with grease I finally broke down and bought the correct puller from matco tools. Now that I no longer have a manual I no longer need to pull the bearing out, I wasted 60$ for the puller that I wont even use now. O well, I am sure I will use it at work sometime.

11-04-2003, 09:16 PM	#1
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Does the T-5 pilot bearing need to come out for an AOD to go in? For the second time, I had the AOD perfectly in place, all lined up. If I pulled the left side in, the right side would pull out and same vice-versa almost as if there was a central pivot point. I've been struggling with this for 2 days so I've tried every angle, method of wiggling, pulling it in with super long bolts and I cant get both sides of it to seat. Then I was reading and for the aod to t-5 swaps, it says install pilot bearing and I did a big OOOOOOOOH!. The front peg drum thing of the torque converter must be bashing into the pilot bearing! Am I right? If so, can this sucker be removed with the flexplate in place (I tightened it good!)? How DO you remove a pilot bearing lying under a car? __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

11-04-2003, 10:45 PM	#3
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	All my work has been in vain! :P Can I chisel it? It seems brittle enough that my screwdriver attempts have snapped off pieces of the outermost flange. Is the pilot bushing replacement necessary or can I go without it? __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

11-05-2003, 04:34 PM	#5
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Try the grease thing, i've heard it works. I've never removed a pilot bearing though. All of my tranny installs involve removing an AOD and putting a T5 in. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

11-05-2003, 06:00 PM	#6
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	I removed it with a dent puller. you know its like a big screw with a weight you slide back and forth. I just hooked the end of the screw got behind the bearing and yanked that sucker out. __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

11-06-2003, 12:21 AM	#7
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	The grease trick works! ....at making a big mess! Other than that, I got some puller thing that apparently is supposed to do the job but doesnt becuase its such a wierd design that it wont work with any of the pullers I have and it's only an attachment I've basically resorted to bashing the thing to pieces and drilling it apart and grinding it with the grinding wheel and basically getting medival on it. I even torched it. I figured I torch everything else, why not the bearing! After 3 hours, I can safely say that there is at least 3 more hours of drilling to go. I hate it when entire projects grind to a halt because of something stupid like this. __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

11-04-2003, 09:40 PM	#2
bottlebaby91 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 141	Yes it does, you either get the correct tool, or you can do it the way I have always done it. Find a deep socket that fits tight into the bearing, but slides in and out easily.(i think a 3/8 drive 7/16 fits good) Fill the inside of the bearing and the socket with grease. Put the socket up to the bearing and you should have enough grease in on the bearing that you wont be able to push the socket in it. Get a hammer and give it a good whack. The grease will press the bearing out. You might need to try it a few times and might see that you need more grease. You might also need a short extension on the socket to keep the grease from comnig out of the socket. It can make a mess, but it will work and is cheaper than going and buying a puller.

11-04-2003, 11:15 PM	#4
bottlebaby91 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 141	It needs to come out and stay out. Dont chisel it.

11-06-2003, 12:53 AM	#8
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	before you go tearing the ** out of something, did you ever think that there's a way it was designed to be removed? Just because you don't have the right tool doesn't mean you have to it up to get it out. So, next time, sit back, drink a beer, and try to figure out the best way to go after it. Maybe autozone has the right tool, or somebody on here will post something that you haven't thought of. But now that you've drilled holes in the ***, there's nothing left to do but completely destroy it and make a mess. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

11-06-2003, 08:22 AM	#9
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Naw, you can still hook the autozone hook attachment into it just fine. That's their official part. I didnt lose anything by grinding away half the bearing. It's a puller attachment but I dont know of any puller that pulls from it's centerpoint. All of the pullers push in with the center shaft. I have a crank puller, steering wheel puller and the jaws puller which just effortlessly snapped off the rim of the bearing. Come on dude, it's not like I'm the only one who's gotten totally frustrated after spending a whole afternoon prying away at a single stripped bolt, wretched stuck O2 sensor, extracting a hopelessly rusted snapped off bolt or some other little pathetic 30 second thing that baloons into some all day project where you're just not getting anywhere. Gonna go get a dent puller and try that later __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

11-06-2003, 09:37 AM	#10
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	I was grindind and chiseling away at mine for a good 40 minuters before I tried the dent puller. Got it out in about 20 seconds. That little bearing is made outta some hard @ss steel. __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

11-06-2003, 09:38 AM	#11
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	I had one that was stuck really bad once. I tried the slide hammer method but there wasnt enough to hook to on the inside of the bearing. Someone recommended the grease trick but as stuck as this thing was, I didnt think it would work. I ended up taking the slide hammer and pulling out the caged roller bearing part. That left me with a hole that was about .930 in diameter. My neighbor who is a machinist found a fine thread tap that called for a hole about that size. We cut threads in it, then threaded a long bolt all the way through until it touched the back of the crank. He then cranked on the bolt with a huge wrench while I held the main bolt on the front of the crank. Later that day he looked up what the mechanical advantage of that thread pitch was. It was like 14 to 1. He estimated he used 100 ft pounds of torque to get it to break loose which I figure was about right considering how hard I had to hang on to the main bolt. That thing was freakin stuck. Andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

11-06-2003, 10:49 AM	#13
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Hey! I can slide under the car much easier now with all that grease on the garage floor! Cool! __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

11-06-2003, 11:04 PM	#15
bottlebaby91 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 141	The grease trick is a pain in the *** because it makes such a mess, but it has always worked for me. It is much easier for me to do the grease thing because I have a hoist to put the car on. The last time I pulled one out with grease I finally broke down and bought the correct puller from matco tools. Now that I no longer have a manual I no longer need to pull the bearing out, I wasted 60$ for the puller that I wont even use now. O well, I am sure I will use it at work sometime.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Pilot Bearing	Cody2552	Windsor Power	2	04-09-2003 09:30 AM
Pilot Bearing	Falcons Talon	Windsor Power	13	10-16-2002 06:44 PM
Pilot bearing replacement	Rebel79	Windsor Power	8	05-31-2002 02:12 PM
roller pilot bearing part #	Strim91GT	Windsor Power	0	04-23-2001 02:12 PM
Need help getting pilot bearing out of crankshaft...	TROYXTROY	Windsor Power	7	01-22-2001 04:25 PM