PLEASE HELP.... Problems

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 08-28-2001, 12:46 AM

I am having some major problems.
1. I cant grab codes ("Check Engine" never appears) or with a voltmeter.
2. My radio shuts off when i hit the braks, signal, turn heater on...
3. I cant rev past 3500 in Neutral, sometimes it wont even rev that high.
4. Some of my guages dont work( heat goes so high you cant even see needle)

Now, I have about $150, and i am thinking of getting "Autometer" guages, but im not sure...

Any help with any questions appreciated.

Thanks

------------------
1988 Mustang GT, T-5
3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang
My Site (Not Done Yet)

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 08-28-2001, 01:29 AM

Buddy will sell me his new stock fuel pump (if that sounds like any of the problems)Could It Be Bad o2 sensors?(this may be stupid, but what are they?)
most of the stuff on the car is origional with 175000 kms. including the unilersal joints.

thanks

Capri306 · 08-28-2001, 01:37 AM

I think you have more than simple gauge problems, dude. Sounds more like a whacky ground and/or some fried wiring behind the dash. When you pull codes, are you absolutely SURE that you're making a good jumper connection between the two pins? I know a lot of cars that have corroded plugs won't spit codes, either. I had my spade connectors fall apart last spring. Now I have to use alligator clips and a test light.

If you don't wanna rip the dash off and actually trace those circuits out, then I'd suggest getting somebody to do it for ya. One day, I have the feeling, some of those wires are going to cause a fire. If they don't I'm sure it'll come up as a headache somewhere else down the line. This sounds nuts, but check the headlight and turn signal combo switches out. I mean physically remove them and test the switch with an ohmmeter.

As for the oxygen sensors, they're the things screwed into the exhaust just after the headers, and look like big metal spark plugs with three wires coming out of the tips. They should be replaced every 30-40k miles. In your case, they're probably WAY overdue, and if most of the car is original with that much mileage I'd highly recommend plugs (not platinum), cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, PCV valve, and possibly a coil. A good (read: expensive, about $13-15 US) fuel system cleaner will probably do wonders for you, too.

Is it just doing this when it's cold, warm, or all the time? Are you blowing black smoke? Are the plugs fouled? Since you have a speed density computer system, if there's any vacuum leaks they will wreak havoc until you find them. You have to find out whether you're running out of fuel pressure or spark energy. Simple tests will tell you which is going on, such as finding the spark color and doing a fuel pressure test. Good luck.

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

[This message has been edited by Capri306 (edited 08-28-2001).]

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 08-28-2001, 08:35 PM

i am missing the 2 long intake bolts that go through the top of the intake where you have to remove the "5.0 FORD HO" plate, i am going to take it to a shop hopefully to get the codes pulled, i am going to make sure the o2sensors are plugged in, and maby replace them(car was in an accident, & i never checked if they are plugged in).

the problem is all the time.

thanks

------------------
1988 Mustang GT, T-5
3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang
My Site (Not Done Yet)

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 08-30-2001, 01:29 AM

my revving problem is because of no backpressure, so to solv it i will be getting a cat-back this week.

now, there is 1 connector(plug) on the driver side of my tranny that isnt plugged to anything, my backup lights work, so what is it, where do i plug it in, and what difference will i notice???

we are going to go ovet the wiring this ewwkend all saturday, so i hope that helps a bit.

thanks

------------------
1988 Mustang GT, T-5
3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang
My Site (Not Done Yet)

08-28-2001, 12:46 AM	#1
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	PLEASE HELP.... Problems I am having some major problems. 1. I cant grab codes ("Check Engine" never appears) or with a voltmeter. 2. My radio shuts off when i hit the braks, signal, turn heater on... 3. I cant rev past 3500 in Neutral, sometimes it wont even rev that high. 4. Some of my guages dont work( heat goes so high you cant even see needle) Now, I have about $150, and i am thinking of getting "Autometer" guages, but im not sure... Any help with any questions appreciated. Thanks ------------------ 1988 Mustang GT, T-5 3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang My Site (Not Done Yet)

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08-28-2001, 01:29 AM	#2
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	Buddy will sell me his new stock fuel pump (if that sounds like any of the problems)Could It Be Bad o2 sensors?(this may be stupid, but what are they?) most of the stuff on the car is origional with 175000 kms. including the unilersal joints. thanks

08-28-2001, 01:37 AM	#3
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	I think you have more than simple gauge problems, dude. Sounds more like a whacky ground and/or some fried wiring behind the dash. When you pull codes, are you absolutely SURE that you're making a good jumper connection between the two pins? I know a lot of cars that have corroded plugs won't spit codes, either. I had my spade connectors fall apart last spring. Now I have to use alligator clips and a test light. If you don't wanna rip the dash off and actually trace those circuits out, then I'd suggest getting somebody to do it for ya. One day, I have the feeling, some of those wires are going to cause a fire. If they don't I'm sure it'll come up as a headache somewhere else down the line. This sounds nuts, but check the headlight and turn signal combo switches out. I mean physically remove them and test the switch with an ohmmeter. As for the oxygen sensors, they're the things screwed into the exhaust just after the headers, and look like big metal spark plugs with three wires coming out of the tips. They should be replaced every 30-40k miles. In your case, they're probably WAY overdue, and if most of the car is original with that much mileage I'd highly recommend plugs (not platinum), cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, PCV valve, and possibly a coil. A good (read: expensive, about $13-15 US) fuel system cleaner will probably do wonders for you, too. Is it just doing this when it's cold, warm, or all the time? Are you blowing black smoke? Are the plugs fouled? Since you have a speed density computer system, if there's any vacuum leaks they will wreak havoc until you find them. You have to find out whether you're running out of fuel pressure or spark energy. Simple tests will tell you which is going on, such as finding the spark color and doing a fuel pressure test. Good luck. ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch [This message has been edited by Capri306 (edited 08-28-2001).]

08-28-2001, 08:35 PM	#4
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	i am missing the 2 long intake bolts that go through the top of the intake where you have to remove the "5.0 FORD HO" plate, i am going to take it to a shop hopefully to get the codes pulled, i am going to make sure the o2sensors are plugged in, and maby replace them(car was in an accident, & i never checked if they are plugged in). the problem is all the time. thanks ------------------ 1988 Mustang GT, T-5 3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang My Site (Not Done Yet)

08-30-2001, 01:29 AM	#5
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	my revving problem is because of no backpressure, so to solv it i will be getting a cat-back this week. now, there is 1 connector(plug) on the driver side of my tranny that isnt plugged to anything, my backup lights work, so what is it, where do i plug it in, and what difference will i notice??? we are going to go ovet the wiring this ewwkend all saturday, so i hope that helps a bit. thanks ------------------ 1988 Mustang GT, T-5 3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang My Site (Not Done Yet)