Who sells complete built 8.8's or should I go 9"..
 

Well I' trying to deceided on what rear set-up I am going with and since I am doing everything I thought if I could get a complete assembled rear then it would make more sense. If I can'r find somethign I will build the whole rear my self. Anybody got any suggestions? http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif

Here's what I want:

31 or 33 splines Rolled Axles (Mark Williams or Supierior)

A Posi Carrier- No Spools car see's a lot of street duty

C-clip eliminators

Stud Girdle/Cover

I was looking at the Mark Williams package deal with the Eaton Posi and 31 splined axles for $950.00.

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Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

id go 9", a lot easier to change stuff on, & alot stronger.

go to the chatroom

If you do stay with an 8.8", I would question the C-clip eliminators. You said you didn't want a spool since the car sees a lot of street time but with C-clip eliminators your seals WILL leak. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. Depending on how much power you're putting down a 9" may be a good idea. If you're not running over about 500rwhp though, I'd stick with an 8.8".

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1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

The only advantage I see that the 9 inch has is the fact that gear changes are A LOT easier and you have more gear ratios to choose from with the 9 inch.
I have never heard of anyone blowing out an 8.8 rear on a car that is run on the street.
If you have more than 500 RWH then I would say it couldn't be very streetable.


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'82 GT 351W,BBK shorties,
Comp Cam,edelbrock intake
625 cfm carter carb. c-4 tranny w/ pro stick shifter. 4 core radiator
Mallory distributor. 3:27
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9" would be complete bombproff but IMO would be over kill..the intial cost is alot but the parts are sligtly cheaper..a 8.8 with 31 spline axels, a locker and a girdle should be good for 800 horse..i know powertrax claims 1,000hp ratings on thier diffs..thats what im putting in..i got a MAC girdle and 31 spline mosers in my garage

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1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
AIM=onesillynotch

84- I hear your concern on the leaking part but according to Mark Williams and Superior there axles are machined not to leak. I do plan on having over 500RWHP as I plan to install a D1 Procharger or X trim Vortech in the future. I found out that MW has a kit that is 33 splined axles and a Eaton Posi w/ upgraded hi=torque axles for $1250, I may go that route. I know the 8.8 can take a lot of abuse I just thought if I was going to get a complete rear would it be a good idea to upgrade to a 9"

A 9" is heavy as hell. 500 rwhp won't hurt a good 8.8, so why add weight? Unless you want to be able to swap gears easily, but then you have to build a 2nd center section, so add $800+ to the price to take advantage of that feature. I still think you ought to use 9" ends on the 8.8, tho, instead of C-clip eliminators.

kevin