ARP Head Stud install
 

I'm starting my first engine buildup this weekend & have a few question's about these ARP Head Studs I bought. First off, ARP recommends only hand tightening the studs into the block. Do I oil the threads that are going into the block? If so, what about the studs that are going into the water passages? Will the thread sealant "set-up" if I thread oiled studs through the sealant? The last thing I want to do is tear back into the engine to replace head gaskets after all the time & money I've put into this so far. Many thanks to those who reply.
Jake

All forged & Procharged 94 Cobra

I didnt oil any of mine. Put them in hand tight, and then torqued em down to specs.

I 've had no problems so far with Nitrous, but Im not under boost.


Skyler

I wouldn't worry about oiling where they go into the block. Just use some kind of thread sealant on the lower bolts and oil the top of the stud when you put the nut on.

I'd suggest chasing the threads in the block with a, well, thread chaser :)

The thread sealant will act as somewhat of a lubricant to help them go in just incase it gets a little rough.
I actually think i used it on all of the head bolts, not just the ones that go through the water jackets.

good luck,
- Drew

STUDS go into their respective holes FINGER tight, its the NUT that gets the torque specs.
BOLTS go in with torque specs.

I did the ARP BOLTS on my heads. First off chase the threads with a thread chaser. Its only $15 from Summit. They look like taps, but are easier on the threads,and allow for crap to clog the threads on the chaser, so you can wipe it clean (repeat till chaser is clean)...
Use ARP thread sealant on the lower (more outer) holes. THis looks like a white-toothpaste/loc-tite combo. Thats waht it does, seals and locks.
Use ARP moly lube on all the other bolts/nuts on re-assembly. It makes the boltthreads/nuts slip and tighten more consistent.

Here is my finished product :D (showing off waht I just installed sunday!)

http://www.dariusrudis.com/engine.jpg

OMG, drudis, that looks like something straight out of my dreams.

VERY nice.


Got a question for ya though, do you find that the factory fan setup cools better than an electical one would on the road courses that you race? I guess you wouldnt have to worry about burning the fan motor out either :D

You guys are hilarious... chicken tacos, motor dreams:D

But seriously, drudis is 100% correct.

Chase the threads, ARP STRONGLY recommends their moly lube on the top row (dead holes) and thread sealer on the bottom row (open holes).

And DEFINITELY use the moly lube on the under and top side of the washers, and on the threads of the nuts. The moly lube gives a more accurate torque spec according to ARP

Bennett racing recommends a 9333 PT1 head gasket with final torque spec of 70 ft lbs on the bottom row and 75 ft lbs on the top row (some go 80, I have before).

I love the chicken taco joke, I'm still laughing!!! good she-ite!

Oh, and get a good, long handled torque wrench if you don't already have one! And creep up on the final spec, say 30-50-70 and go back on the top row and add 5-10 ft lbs.

If I can do it, anyone on this list oughta be able to!!
I almost forgot, if you have any leakage out of the bottom row, common on studs, add a bottle of liquid Bar's Leaks.

I was skeptical, but it works...

I use a VERY thin layer of black RTV on the threads that go into the block and put them in hand tight. I also use the moly lube for the nuts and torq the top to 70 and the lower to 65 in increments(sp?) of 15.
Good luck,
Wade