'83 5.0 will not idle
 

Awhile ago I picked up an '83 Mustang GL 5.0, almost stock, had a Holley 4160 on it. Gas mileage was bad, sputtered sometimes, so I decided to rebuild it and see what happens.

So I got a Trick Kit, put it together & adjusted it and the engine will not idle anymore. I should also say I swapped metering blocks because I found one in better shape.

Now it will run from about 1500 RPM to 6000 RPM, but if you let off the gas, it'll just cut out. You have to pump it a couple of times to start it back up again.

I can get it to idle, but the float level is way too high, where gas is pouring out of the bowl vent.

Anyone have any ideas to get this running again, short of trying another carb?

What RPM is your car ideling at, and i take it you have not messed with replacing the fuel injectors or fuel pump? Also, you may want to check your mass air flow sensor. (sorry for the double post) :confused:

Okay, you have a problem with your idle circuit. Where did your new metering plate come from? Are you sure it's a primary side metering plate? Does it have idle mixture screws on its sides? When you replaced it, did you completely clean off all of the old gasket between the block and the body, blow out the passages with compressed air, and install a new gasket? Are you sure you used the correct gasket? What is the List # on the air horn?

1hot5.0 -- this is an '83 GL, not a '93 GT.

I didn't use compressed air to clean anything. This might be the problem because I did do some scraping to get the old gaskets off. I'll check that soon -- I'll have to take it to work and use the compressor there. Does it sound like something is clogged? Why can I get it to idle only when it floods over the top?

The carb I have on the car is an 1850-3. The carb I got the metering plate and electric choke was a 9834-2. I used its primary float bowl, too because the pump shot on the 1850-3 was missing its check ball retainer. Now it's using the orange plug style, which works much better. Both are 600's and both metering plates look exactly the same, with idle screws on both sides.

The block gasket I used was correct. I got trick kit #37-119 and threw it in there.

I'm using a 3.5 power valve to make sure it isn't opening @ idle and the jets are #60's. Those are too rich, but I'm tuning that soon. I have a set of #55's waiting for it, after I can get it to idle.

Thanks for the help thus far.

Tom

Okay, first of all, those metering blocks are not interchangeable. The 9834 block is supposed to have a tube in it, above the power valve, that fits into a hole in the carb body. The 1850 doesn't have this. Look at the two blocks together, right above the power valve, on the body side. You will see the difference. They also use different gaskets. BTW, the 37-119 kit is just a renew kit for the 1850, not a Trick kit. The correct Trick kit is #37-912 (for both), and the correct renew kit for the 9834 is #37-720. Anyway, you need to pull off the 9834 block, and completely clean the old gasket off the body, and put the 1850 metering block back in, and make sure you use a 108-29 gasket.

After you get this done, we'll discuss setting the idle mixture.

Take care,
~Chris

My bad, sorry :( Guess I'm not thinking right with the MAF. lol

1hot5.0 -- it's cool. I'm more of a carb guy; I don't know as much about EFI/CFI as I do carb.

About the rebuild kit ... mine says "TricKit" on the box, labeled 37-119 for 1958-72 Ford. I thought I heard about those kits having different jets, springs, etc but this is just a rebuild kit.

Anyway, yes I know about the differences (transfer tube & w/o). Oops. The metering blocks look exactly the same on the outside. Unfortunately the 1850 metering block won't seal anymore because it's too badly damaged. How can I go about getting a new one, and what part numbers should I be looking for?

Well, I just went through about 30 different metering blocks looking for one for you, but I don't have one. You need a primary metering block from any 1850. The actual part number is 134-128. There are others that will fit, but their idle feed restrictions, air bleed holes to the main well, etc., are different. I have sent an email to a good friend of mine that may have one. If he does, I'll let you know. Otherwise, you may want to shop around for an old 1850 that needs a rebuild, and use it for parts.

Take care,
~Chris

umm... another metering block wont work on the stock carb...they have idle adjustment screws in the base... not the side like a normal holley... and there are secondary idle mixture adjustment screws too.... BTW, the idle adjustment screws work backwards from normal holleys too...backing them out leans it instead of richen... :-)

On the stock 4180, yes. Like I said, when I bought this car it had a 4160 already on it.

I can get you a metering block, but he wants $25 for it. Let me know.

Take care,
~Chris

I went ahead and checked out that metering block, and it's an excellent one, and is exactly what you need, so I went ahead and bought it. If you don't want it, that's fine, I'll keep it, but if you do want it, email me:

pkrwuds@pacbell.net

and we'll discuss it.

Take care,
~Chris