![]() |
K&N question
I am going to buy a K&N Filtercharger air filter on thursday. If I get the conical air filter, and remove my stock filter box? If so, will this give me some horses? I am not expecting a 26 hp increase likt the FIPK, but at least a few?:D
|
No, but it will sound meaner. Having your air supply come through the fender is much better than drawing hot air from the engine compartment!
Take care, ~Chris |
Im broke and can't afford a cold air intake kit right now.:( I guess removing the air box will have to do for now. At least I will sound meaner. :D Thanks.
|
Um, where does your air box get it's air now???
:rolleyes: :) Take care, ~Chris |
You should get a K&N panel style filter and KEEP the air box. The stock air box IS a cold air intake.
|
Buy a panel filter and leave it in the factory box. Then take out the air silencer, thats just as good as a cold air kit sopposedly.
Later, Nick |
I originally used a K&N drop in filter in my 91 LX. It didn't give a real noticeable increase in horsepower if any, but it definitely did make it sound better. I then upgraded to a K&N cold air intake system which replaced my factory air box, I noticed very little difference between the two, in sound or power.
|
You can also buy the C&L intake pipe for about $99 which will improve air flow over the stock accordion style pipe.
|
So, basically the conical filter is no good? Get the panel? What if i make my own home made cold air induction and had the filter going inside the fender just like a cold air induction kit?
|
Quote:
|
I bought my filer today. I ended up getting the panel filtercharger that goes into the airbox. All I have to say is wow!:D The car pulls harder throughout the RPM range. I would say it feels like I gained 10 hp. My question is, should I reset my computer to have it relearn itself with the new filter? (I know its kind of a dumb question but im curious.):D
Thanks. |
You don't need to since the change is on the input side of the MAF sensor. It's unlikely that any intake change would need a computer reset. You only really need to reset the computer if a major sensor is changed or there is a major change in fuel supply (besides needing the clear continuous codes, of course).
|
Hehe, I put a smog pump in my truck today, and decided to change the plugs/wires/cap/rotor too. Well, halfway through, I thought I might as well clean my K&N since it was now going to be easy to get to.
That thing was SOOO DIRTY!!! I drive on a lot of dirt, and my filter is part of an FIPK kit that I customized by relocating the filter to a location where it gets a direct ram air effect. Anyway, I couldn't get over how much crap came out of this thing. I have to say, though, the coolest part of all was how clean the air intake tubes (that go to the TB) were! I rubbed my finger inside, and there wasn't the slightest trace of dirt! I love my K&N!! Take care, ~Chris |
That's impressive. These things flow better filthy than paper ones do when they are clean.
Ever have a problem with the oil fouling the MAF sensor element? |
Quote:
My best friends dad did, though. The poor guy just retired in May, and all he does is sit at home, get drunk, and decide what needs to be "fixed" or serviced. LOL. He's already screwed up his TPS, spent 4 days trying find out if his EGR was plugged (it's a '94 T-bird/4.6!!!), and most recently cleaned his K&N. I was there to look it over for him because of an unexplained rough idle and lack of performance, and I saw a puddle of red oil underneath the filter. You can guess the rest. :) Take care, ~Chris |
I just brought that up so people are aware that you shouldn't over oil the filter and that if you start to have driveability problems that you should clean the MAF sensor element with alcohol.
You have to love guys with too much time on their hands, though. :) Oh, I found the washer. It was sitting on top of the arm of the oil pump that connects to the pickup tube. I was probably safe but I'm glad I pulled the engine. |
Quote:
:) Take care, ~Chris |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:48 AM. |