Milling stock E7 heads??How much?
 

I went ahead and took off the heads, so now I want to port & Mill them some.I'd like to gain as much power as I can with them so how much should I mill them?How much can I mill them without having to worry about them ling up with the intake correctly?I'd like to get 10.5 to 1 (est.) is that too high?How much should be milled for that?
Also I'm removing the thermactor bump and opening up the ports on the exhaust and gasket matching the intake to the heads, anything else?I think I read that it does no good to mess with the intake side of the heads and you'll make them worse if you don't know what your doing, which I basicly don't.
By the way I'm running stock cam,I figure cam not much value with stock intake and heads plus I'm still speed density.
Thanks guys
Wes

.030 is the most we normally go. I do know people that have gone .040.

ok ski here is goes:

OE E7 heads have roughly 64cc chamber and the compression ratio is 8.80:1(advertised at 9.0:1 but not true)
shave the head .10"=62.4 cc and 8.96:1
.20"=60.92cc and 9.12:1
.25"=60.15cc and 9.2:1
.30"=59.38cc and 9.3:1
.35"=58.61cc and 9.37:1
.40"=57.84cc and 9.46:1

roughly each half point in compression increase equals roughly 15 horses. the max you can go on the E7 would be .40" and you dont have to cut the intake either if you go that high.

port out the exhaust roof and work the exhaust bowls. i was told to leave the intake alone, but if you wanted to, port match the intake.

sorry, no 10.5:1 for you unless you get different pistons.

also, ALWAYS check valve to piston clearence!!!!!!!:eek:

oh yeah, listen to workcar. sorry, didnt mean to take your spotlight of fame buddy!:D

Why is .040 the max on an E7?

after that you will definetly have valve to piston interference and also you then have to machine your intake.

My heads were shaved .050 and I have keith black flat tops with no interference, cobra intake didnt have to be shaved either. Im just saying that it worked for me with no problems.

Cb93, this is good to know, the most that I have heard of was .040, what cam do you run and how fast is the car?

I just built the motor and have had it running for 2 weeks. No times yet. Still getting some seat time. Stock cam with 1.7s right now. I asked about the heads before I tryed it and everyone said that there would be no problems. I didnt even check for clearence other than turning it over by hand to be sure. I was that convenced. Maybe with a bigger cam, I wouldve checked. My friend has his 306 with heads shaved .040 with the f cam and no problems so I dont know. Hes running low 8s in the 8th on street tires. No 1/4 mile times though.

WOW! that is insane! well at least we know that someone did it and it works so far! i would say your cutting it close. sorry, no pun intended!:rolleyes:

Do you guys really feel its that close? Makes me want to measure it. I just dont really beleive its that close, I mean only .050 thousandts of an inch. Thats not much of nothing. I dont know the clearence on stock though. Intake bolts were close though. Any more and Id definatly say youd have to have that intake done also. If I ever have to pull the heads Ill check the clearence for sure. The machine shop was told to mill them as much as possible without having to worry about the intake and valve clearence, they came up with the .050. I was concerned at first but every one said that it wouldnt hurt anything. Guess they were right. But really, 50 thousandts of an inch isnt much

I took my heads to work and shaved .031" off of them. With 1.6 rockers and an F303 cam (.512" lift - 288 adv dur) and the stock forged pistons that come in a 90 Mustang 5.0 I had .095" piston to valve clearance. I've been told .100" is about the max you should go depending on how high you want to rev, but my throttle stuck wide open one night and the factory tach was stuch well past 8k and my valves still never hit. Also, it's not just how much lift you have, it's duration too.

Hey 88workcar, how does your car run with the cam and S.D.?
I drive mine on the street most often so I never thought I could change cams without mass air and still have good drivability?
Your times are very impressive 1.55 60ft WOW! What does it weigh? How does it idle & drive around town?

Ski, it runs just fine. I have used a B, an E, and a wolverine 1087, all worked well. I drive mine daily, I pull my boat and 4 wheeler also. I got some strang looks at the boat ramp fri night :). Yes the 1.55 is my best ever, Slicks, 70hp shot, launch 4500 or so, it's a awesome feeling. The car weighs 2740# full of gas. But I just blew the rear hatch off fri going to the ramp, got to excited to go hunting and forgot to pin it down. Three cars went around it before a truck went right over it. Now I have the factory hatch back on it. So I picked up a few pounds.

FWIW, .050" is approx. the thickness of 17 sheets of notebook paper.

I have never heard of anyone shaving more than .040" without also machining the intake. I would be very curious to know what your piston to valve clearance is.

Take care,
~Chris

Well, now that I have put some thought into it. Cory has a stock bottom, we put AFR 165s on it, 1.94 / 1.60s and with a HR266 cam which is .544/.555 which is a quite larger than stock. It does just fine.

are 87 truck heads the same as mustang heads?

are 87 truck heads the same as the 87 mustang heads or are they better or worse?

i had my E7's ported and polished didn't flow much more i would say save up some more for some alumminum.

Before
157.5 Intake
115.5 Exhaust

After
169.4 Intake
136.4 Exhaust

But maybe i didn't get them ported fully? but oh well my heads are the only thing holding me back from some horsepower!

Cody, done right it is 220 int / 175 exh