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-   -   OK now i have real issues (http://forums.mustangworks.com/showthread.php?t=36639)

drtbiker 05-25-2003 03:08 PM

OK now i have real issues
 
So i go ahead and hook up the jumper to terminal two then hook terminal #4 on the 6 plug thing and put it to a battery meter and the meter does not sweap at all just stays in the center. Turned on the ignition turn it off. Same thing now everyone says to try to pull the codes. I have the worst luck i cant even get the car to throw me any codes at all.

later

Maroon 5.0 LX 05-25-2003 09:12 PM

What did you say?

drtbiker 05-25-2003 09:38 PM

i tried to pull codes from the car and nothing happen at all. I get no codes at all not even code 11

Coupe50h 05-26-2003 12:00 AM

sounds like you are trying to pull codes without a scanner? my advice, get a real scanner, iff it doesnt throw codes, check all grounds.
good luck

PKRWUD 05-26-2003 04:44 AM

Normally, does your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, aka Check Engine Light) come on when you turn the key on, but do not start the engine?

drtbiker 05-26-2003 02:09 PM

it doesnt have a check engine light that i am aware of. IT is a 87 and i switched over to mass air

PKRWUD 05-26-2003 04:04 PM

Right. I forgot it was an '87. okay, do this; Set up just like you did before, with a test light probe touching the 2nd plug from the left, on the bottom row of four, and attach the alligator clip end of the test lamp to the pos battery post. Insert a jumper wire with a blade fitting on one end, into the single wire connector that accompanies the 6 pin plug, and the other end of it should be attached to a good ground, rather than the #2 pin in the 6 pin connector. Understand? next, turn the key ON, and wait for the test lamp to start flashing. If it doesn't, leave everything the way it is, with the key ON, and double check all your connections, and make sure they're good. If you still don't get any kind of flicker from the test lamp, let me know.

Take care,
~Chris

In the "drawing" below, the X is where your test light probe goes, and the pigtail wire (G) goes directly to ground.

/ _ _ \
_ x _ _ |G|

drtbiker 05-26-2003 04:53 PM

ok cool ill give it a shot when i get a chance probally be on weds when i have time to work on it again

thanks
raini

drtbiker 05-31-2003 05:39 PM

well here we go the following codes i have... now what do i have to fix =)
all codes taken with engine off ignition on..

51- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - ECT

22 -MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP

53-Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS

54-Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT

35-(R) EVP - Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system - EVP

67-Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
-Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit
-Transmissions (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
(what in the heck does that mean???)

81-Boost control solenoid - Solenoids
-AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
-3 0L SHO - Inlet Air Solenoid - Solenoids
(what does that mean)
82-2 3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
(it is pluged in)

96-(O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

96-(O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
-(R) AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
-(M) (Service 87 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits


i am so confused pkrwud i sure hope u can come to my rescue on this one......

thanks


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