What are these things? Why do you want them?
 

I haven't heard of many people in person listing subframe connectors in person, but on here I hear it all the time. What do they do? I've seen people on here who said it was the best mod. I want to feel this way too and they dont cost much as I've seen in catalogs, but what else do they do?

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94' Stang GT Convertible Cobra upper&lower, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s 14.4@100. (Sad, i know. i have stock heads)

I wouldnt say best mod, but very smart move before dumping money into your motor. they are steel square, or sometimes tube (depending on brand) rails that are welded or bolted, (dont bolt them)to your subframe to the whatever its called, i guess the rear part of your frame under the car, like where you would put your jack, i have rode in a 85 stang with some custom welded subs, lemme tell ya, that car rode smoother, handled better, accelerated a little quicker...well just felt more responsive to traction, and can get rid of rattles you may have in the interior. "unwanted flex" is what they advertise it cures, especialy on a unibody chassis.

Like 90dpscoupe said, subframe connectors connect the front and rear subframes. Other than the subframes underneath, there is like a 3 foot gap of just floor. Basically the front and rear of the car are tied together through the roof and pillars being the strongest structural supports, convertibles having door strengthening and light duty subframe connectors/k-member braces on some. Unfortunately, this is barely adequate even for stock mustangs, let alone mustangs with high horsepower or cars that do autocross/road racing.
How much of a differance does it make:
On a drag racing car, a twisting chassis will cause usually the left rear tire to lift up/get less traction that the right resulting in not only less traction, but wasted energy that could've been planted to the tires (if you see a picture of a race mustang with one wheel 2 inches off the ground and the other 8 inches you'll get the idea).
In a road race/autocross car or even a stock car, imagine taking a really hard corner and the rear end coming around or hopping violently because one of the tires lifted up and lost traction because of chassis flex.
Basically it's cheap insurance against permanently twisting your frame or even your personal safety.

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'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
My car

The stiffer the chassis, the more power you can get to the rear tires. That's why drag racers use steel motor and tranny mounts along with subframes. Then they weld a rollcage in and tie it into the subframes. This makes for a bumpy ride on the street, but great at the track.

The stiffer the chassis, the more power you can get to the rear tires. That's why drag racers use steel motor and tranny mounts along with subframes. Then they weld a rollcage in and tie it into the subframes. This makes for a bumpy ride on the street, but great at the track.

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92 GT, 4:10 gears, centerforce clutch, 6# powerdyne blower, bbk h-pipe, flowmasters

They made a huge difference in my car! I recommend them! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif

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Joe! 1988 GT, 167,000 miles!!! 13.58@105mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com
99 Ninja ZX-6R:10.32@135mph!
1993 Olds Eighty Eight LSS 16.40@88.8mph http://www.duhspot.com/users/smiley/.../outtahere.gif

Let me add my two cents...

I would consider this mod a MUST for convertibles (along with a strut tower brace). Made a HUGE difference -- far fewer rattles, less cowl shake.

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'87 5.0 LX Convertible 5-spd.

Headers, cat-back, Bilstein shocks & struts, springs, pulleys, K&N filter, full-length sub-frame connectors, strut tower brace, 3.73s, Pro 5 shifter. Aren't these cars great?